Tag Archives: Around the Water Cooler
Grizzly buying strategy and other questions.
First the questions about shopping:
*What is the best time to buy? Should I wait until 2017’s are in stock or until Fall? Right now there are very few used Grizzly’s in California so I am considering buying a new one. I see some dealer sales listed on Craig’s list.
*Are Nada prices accurate or feasible? According to them a low price for a 2016 SE is $7100 and the average price is $9300. That is a big range. The pessimist in me says the low price is only available with $2000 additional in transportation and dealer prep fees.
*Is it usually better to buy skids and a winch aftermarket or as options when new?
*Should I get a base model and buy the wheels and better tires aftermarket?
*Any other advice or suggestions?
Here are some questions about Grizzly’s hardware etc.:
*How tippy are they compared to a 2010 Renegade 500? I don’t want to die. I weigh 170 lbs and am pretty good about standing on the inside footrest when necessary. Does EPS increase tipping risk dramatically? I’m a relative rooky and drive conservatively, partly because the fire roads in the Sierra Nevada’s, where I ride mostly, are mostly too rocky and lumpy for fast cornering.
*Is it easier to work on Grizzly’s than Renegades? All I would usually do is lube the zerks, clean the air filter, change the oil and replace the CVT belt in the field. Can-Ams have a reputation for being difficult to work on.
*I recall hearing Grizzly’s have weak belts. Is this just the original equipment belt or just the older models or is it a false rumor?
*What is up with the straight drive shaft? “Straight driveshaft layout eliminates U-joints for reduced friction, noise, vibration, and maintenance.” This sounds too good to be true. Are there any disadvantages? The hardest part of lubing the zerks on a Can-Am is getting to the zerks in the U joints.
*How tough is the paint on the SE and LE models compared to typical body plastic? Should I get an unpainted base model instead?
Thank you very much for any information!
Doug
Grizzly buying strategy and other questions.
First the questions about shopping:
*What is the best time to buy? Should I wait until 2017’s are in stock or until Fall? Right now there are very few used Grizzly’s in California so I am considering buying a new one. I see some dealer sales listed on Craig’s list.
*Are Nada prices accurate or feasible? According to them a low price for a 2016 SE is $7100 and the average price is $9300. That is a big range. The pessimist in me says the low price is only available with $2000 additional in transportation and dealer prep fees.
*Is it usually better to buy skids and a winch aftermarket or as options when new?
*Should I get a base model and buy the wheels and better tires aftermarket?
*Any other advice or suggestions?
Here are some questions about Grizzly’s hardware etc.:
*How tippy are they compared to a 2010 Renegade 500? I don’t want to die. I weigh 170 lbs and am pretty good about standing on the inside footrest when necessary. Does EPS increase tipping risk dramatically? I’m a relative rooky and drive conservatively, partly because the fire roads in the Sierra Nevada’s, where I ride mostly, are mostly too rocky and lumpy for fast cornering.
*Is it easier to work on Grizzly’s than Renegades? All I would usually do is lube the zerks, clean the air filter, change the oil and replace the CVT belt in the field. Can-Ams have a reputation for being difficult to work on.
*I recall hearing Grizzly’s have weak belts. Is this just the original equipment belt or just the older models or is it a false rumor?
*What is up with the straight drive shaft? “Straight driveshaft layout eliminates U-joints for reduced friction, noise, vibration, and maintenance.” This sounds too good to be true. Are there any disadvantages? The hardest part of lubing the zerks on a Can-Am is getting to the zerks in the U joints.
*How tough is the paint on the SE and LE models compared to typical body plastic? Should I get an unpainted base model instead?
Thank you very much for any information!
Doug
2003 Trailboss wont start, gas in oil
Front Brake bleeding g
Toe Alignment Adjustment
I get two different measurements, so which tie rod should I adjust? How do I know which one is the correct one?
Appreciate any help.
1986 Honda Fourtrax fuel issue
It will start if I remove the spark plug and dump a little gas in.
What else can it be?
500 will not start
2011 sportsman 500 100 hours on it will not start.
I ran it in the morning, came out 2 hours later it rolled over and backfired and now won’t start. Can smell fuel, and have spark. What do I check next.
Any and all comments (besides buy a Honda lol ) would be appreciated.
thanks
Honda Rancher carb overflow problem
My problem now is that I have a bad leak coming out through the overflow but the float is not stuck! The valve works, I can blow into the gas intake and manually operate the valve and it does shut off. The float has no holes in it. Why is my float not shutting off the gas??
Ride the Wilds in NH
Thanks!!
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