New here and this is an amazing site to find info but can’t find this. I have an 05 recon that a buddy let me work on. Needed new valve guide and had a bent valve. Well the rear end is also locked even in nuetral. When we pushed it into his garage 6 months ago it rolled just fine. Already pulled rear breaks off and didn’t help. Any info is appreciated! Thanks!
Hey guys, getting ready to replace the through shaft on my 2016 Renegade XMR 1000R. I know the engine has to be removed and split, but I would like to know if this is something that I can do with just basic tools, or if I need anything special to do it. Or maybe I should just pull the motor myself and bring it to the dealer? Is there anything else I should replace while it’s down? The machine is basically new, it has about 900 kms on it. I guess any information you can toss my way is a help as I need to plan my next move. Thanks.
Hey guys, getting ready to replace the through shaft on my 2016 Renegade XMR 1000R. I know the engine has to be removed and split, but I would like to know if this is something that I can do with just basic tools, or if I need anything special to do it. Or maybe I should just pull the motor myself and bring it to the dealer? Is there anything else I should replace while it’s down? The machine is basically new, it has about 900 kms on it. I guess any information you can toss my way is a help as I need to plan my next move. Thanks.
Hello! New here and always look on this site for help but I’m stumped. I’m currently working on a 05 250 recon for a buddy that said it stop running with a loud tapping on top of engine. Well it had a broken valve guide and bent valve. Fixed that. Another problem the rear ends "locked". The tires will spin 1/2-1 inch in both directions. He said it moved fine when he put it away and it has sat for a about 6 months. Already pulled rear brakes and that didn’t help. Any info is welcome! Thanks!
Hello! New here and always look on this site for help but I’m stumped. I’m currently working on a 05 250 recon for a buddy that said it stop running with a loud tapping on top of engine. Well it had a broken valve guide and bent valve. Fixed that. Another problem the rear ends "locked". The tires will spin 1/2-1 inch in both directions. He said it moved fine when he put it away and it has sat for a about 6 months. Already pulled rear brakes and that didn’t help. Any info is welcome! Thanks!
I want to remove the Exhaust pipe on my sportsman 570 to wrap it in header wrap. I felt I could do a much better job with it on the bench.
I didn’t have my big vise grips at home. All I had were small vice grips and pliers. I had to give up as those are some really stout springs.
I’m just wondering if someone has found a better way/tool because even with my large vice grips I think it is going to be a pain to do it with them as well. I may just do it the best I can w/o removal of the pipe if it seems like too much effort/time for such an easy job as wrapping the pipe. I just wanted to do a clean through job is all.
Recently I flipped on its left side my eps grizzly in the snow, resulted with a crooked steering, my left handlebar ended up buried. Not a brutal crash but it was enough to cause damage.
With wheels pointing straight forward my handlebars were pointing to the left.
I replaced the steering column to eps joint, which had twisted. Aligned my new joint on the eps shaft as described in the factory manual, installed the steering column (grooved so you cannot fit it wrong) , centered it and started aligning the wheels only to notice something is still off;
With handlebars centered , looking from under the machine I notice the pitman arm is off to one side, if I center the pitman my handlebars are off to one side. If measure the center point on the eps shaft with the pitman straight it will appear equal on both sides , if I re measure it with the steering straight, it will be off less than 1/4 inch to one side.
Now, I really suspect having also twisted the steering column (even tough at quick glance it seemed straight enough) , but I want to make sure I make the right call since its a 100$ part here in Quebec..
I will try tomorrow to take a few more measurements at the pitman arm front and sides where tie rods connect to make sure…I am trying not to remove it for fun since its really tight fit and at 150ft pound of torque it will be a b*tch to remove…
Just got a 13 outlander 650 and the low beam lights were both blown. High beams are not blown. Put new bulbs in and the low beams work but highs dont. Ive checked all fuses and relays and everything works out. When I use a positive light detector the high beams are never hot only grounded? Need any help is can get. Thanks