I was curious if anyone had info on the factory winch mounting and wiring specifically for the contactor. I was given a warn winch so I thought I would mount it to the beast. Thanks.

Long time lurker and new to the forum.
I was gifted a 99 300 Fourtrax 2×4 from my dad. It has been a solid rig and but has lacked maintenance. So, I gave it a good refresher with: rebuild wheel cylinders, replace front brakes, replace front bearings, replace front shocks, rebuild master cylinder, adjusted valves, rebuilt carb, changed oil/filter, cleaned and changed diff oil, replaced rear bearings, replaced rear brakes, replaced rear shock, new seat cover, cleaned and painted all metal, replaced tires and added a winch. It was fun to rebuild and have something of my Dad’s and the result is a solid like new 300. Sweet!!! EXCEPT…….

Here is my dilemma. The rig ran ok before and great after the rebuild. Just days later, it began to miss. It sounds kind of like a rev limiter. It only runs at very light throttle then cuts out as tho it doesn’t have a spark. If you release the throttle, it idles just fine. After reading the forums, i have done the following….
rebuilt card again, replaced carb, ran fuel from funnel directly to the carb, replaced the pug again, verified pulse is in spec, tested there yellow wires in white stator and they all show good continuity with no continuity to ground, I’ve checked the connections for the battery and ICM, disconnected battery and ran through kickstarting…. Still, I have the issue.

It does not seem to ‘bog’, it just sounds like it’s against a chip even though it’s well into the low rpm. This is driving me crazy and I don’t know where else to look. Any suggestions from you all would be MUCH APPRECIATED!!!!

PS- After I kick started, I shut off and reconnected the battery. After I started, it ran fine for a couple of days and now it is unchanging. The intermittent seems electrical but now it doesn’t matter what I do, same issue….

Bought a used renegade and it came with a fan override switch, but they had it wired from the battery straight to the switch then to fan and had the heat sensor cut off which i don’t like because i wouldn’t mind the fan cutting in when it has to. Is there a way to run power right from the battery to switch and have the heat sensor working also?? can’t quiet get her to kick in itself only by switch.. :th_smiliefrustrated

I have a 95 trx300, 2 wheel drive and stock tires. 25-12×9 back and 23-8×11 front. i have come across a set of tires and rims off a 2016 or 2017 sra rancher. 24-8×12 front and 24-10×11. will these fit and work on my machine? I believe they will, but wanted to make sure since the rims and tires are both different. so anybody done this and know if it will work?

thanks!! Chris

Hi, I just purchased an unknown year 1993 – 1995 Yamaha Kodiak 400 4×4, which at the time of purchase I was told it needed a new carb and muffler. We sprayed a drop of starter fluid into it and it did fire up fine. Once home, we pulled the old mikuni carb and it was definitely toast. Grooves in the input tube where the cable throttle went, hung the throttle, the main jet was corroded beyond belief. I ordered a replacement carb off of e-bay. At the same time, I also ordered a main jet kit (thru many recommendations) from Dyna-Jet to fit 1993 – 1998 models.
We put the brand new carb on with a new in-line fuel filter & throttle cable & spark plug & battery, and it idled only, and when you try to accelerate, it dies. I pulled the carb, put in the new Dyna-jet main jet needle per instructions for my area (less than 5000 elevation) put the clip on the third ring and re-assembled. Once again, it idles only, then dies when you try to accelerate the throttle. I’ve tried the carb with and without the filter & snorkel on, to no avail.
I recall in the past having a Honda with a plugged muffler with the same issue, so I removed the muffler, leaving only the header pipe. Tried to fire it up. The first time it idled, took one attempt at trying to accelerate and then died again. All attempts after = Idle only, then die when trying to accelerate. I’ve adjusted the main jet two full turns out, later 1-3/4 turns out and still the same. New, non-ethanol gas, new carb, new fuel lines, new air filter, new sponge air filter factory cover. With only a header pipe, there are no exhaust obstructions.
I’m at my limit for trying to figure out why it idles only. Typically, they either run or the don’t, but this is baffling. I’ve seen quite a few posts and took the advice on most, including the Dyna-Jet solution, all to no avail. Can anyone offer any productive advice I haven’t tried yet? Thanks in advance, Mark

It’s been 95 plus degrees since I’ve added my snorkel. I’ve only road it maybe 5 miles since all been speed runs down the road and through my fields. My fan kicks on seems sooner than normal, then again I’m running in high hot nasty weather and pure speed runs. My question is to guys who run snorkel kits does anyone have issues with it over heating or run hot quicker than normal?

I have a question. My 2001 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO 4 wheeler’s electric start stopped working yesterday. The pull start was able to start it. I noticed my speedometer needle stopped working right before the electric start went out but the lights on the speedometer and head lights on the 4 wheeler worked. So I don’t think it is the battery. I just ordered a starter and solenoid. Do you think that would get the electric start working? It just weird the speedometer stopped. Would that also fix the speedometer?

when I rock my bike back and fort from side to side without the engine running I get a snapping sound underneath and if I’m driving it it snapps too any ideas thanks in advance

I have a question. My 2001 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO 4 wheeler’s electric start stopped working yesterday. The pull start was able to start it. I noticed my speedometer needle stopped working right before the electric start went out but the lights on the speedometer and head lights on the 4 wheeler worked. So I don’t think it is the battery. I just ordered a starter and solenoid. Do you think that would get the electric start working? It just weird the speedometer stopped. Would that also fix the speedometer?

Ok well I’m usually very careful when I swap around my rims and tires but I guess I managed to fudge one up and it’s tight as hell to back off. It’s going to snap…no question about it.

So if any of my local Polaris dealers are open tomorrow I plan on picking up a few studs and new set of nuts to match. Before I go in does anyone have that info so I can carry it in with me? Also would it be possible to get a bit longer stud in there? I’m going to add a 1/4 inch spacer up front and would like to see if that’s a possibility.

Thanks in advance for the help and for not being Markcuda with a snarky response.