Check engine light came on when riding, stopped pulled the code. Came up No p-codes active. shut the bike off and on and the engine light went away, drove for another 30 minutes and light back on tried the p code numerous times and on one try for a brief moment a code came up, hard to read but it looked like it was p1675. Tried it a few more times and same thing just a brief po code popped up this time it looked like it was po106. Anyone got any suggestions???:th_smiliefrustrated

I’ve been working on a 86 TRX200SX, and I’ve replaced the carb. On both the original carb, and my replacement, with the cable hooked up, the slide doesn’t go all the way closed, it leaves a pretty good sized gap and doesn’t look right.

On both the new and the old, the slide does close all the way with the cable unhooked.

I’m suspicious that the previous owner has an incorrect cable installed, I’ve adjusted it all the way out at the thumb throttle also.

I should add, the slide isn’t 180 off either, it closes even less 180 degrees from where it is here.

Today was a little bitter sweet. I finally broke down and traded the MOOSE WAGON to a new home. I traded for a 2006 TRX450ER with a bad crank. The quad is super clean. The plastics are uncut and no cracks. Tires are no good but I have 3 sets lol. As with the 400ex it will not be a 2 week build … so… here are a few pics as it sits

sent from MOOSE mobile

I have a welder but I am not the world’s best welder by far but my question is looking at the pictures to fix where these welds are cracked and broken am I best served by grinding away all or most of the existing weld? I guessing that welding over a weld is probably not the best idea but I’ve never done it. Thanks

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iam looking to get either the maxxis zillas 26-9-12 and 26-11-12 or the mudlite xl 26-9-12 and 26-10-12 which is a better choice?

My super winch will first work fine then sometimes cut off and start making a clicking noise from the main contactor box. Then the motor stops working and then about an hour later it may work right. Does anyone know what could be happening?

Just got these in, so surprised how light they are…Tell me what you think?

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Just picked up and installed Opt 7 Fluxbeam LED headlight bulbs with Hi/Low. 6000k, 40Watts per bulb with 3500 Lumens per bulb. They have a 2 year warranty, and are IP67 rated. They are a little spendy at $100 off amazon, but I hate the look of the stock bulbs. I’ll report back later with more use.

Im also running 28" zillas but the rpm haven’t ever been that high at that low speed with these tires

Alright ,heres the question..
Is anyone thinking of getting the Iron Baltic’s with an atv guru bumper?
As of now you can only use the shorty GURU.
I have the full size that I was going to sell and have ordered the shorty .Which he hasn’t started yet so I can cancel and order the modded full size.
While Farting around with the stock full size and I/B’s
I have come up with a pattern for a very easy modification to the welded add on for bracket at the bottom of the verticals that attaches to the snow plow mount ,that will allow the use of a full size bumper with the I/B’s
If I do do this ,i’ll have to get the shorty because I have a couple trips comeing up,Would anyonebe interested in a shorty ATV GURU,for use with the Iron Baltics skids It would be $50 off new price.Then I will also have a stock guru that I would be selling also $50 off new.
Plus John(guru) will have the pattern on file if anyone else wanted to do the same
I just dont want to go through all this and have 3 bumpers to take a hard hit on.