Hey guys, I just got my first quad, a 95 Sportsman 400 4×4, and during it’s shake down run this weekend it seems like the rear suspension needs some help. I’m not a small guy (pushing 280 on a good day), and when I’m riding the back end seems to sag more than it should, even with the preload adjusted to the highest setting. The assembly looks all original, and the shock bushings are pretty clapped out, so I’d like to replace it, but I’d like to replace the spring as well. It looks like Polaris is no longer making replacement springs for this model (part# 7041299-067), and I haven’t been able to find anything in the aftermarket that is compatible with my specific sportsman. The ones that show up on ebay looks just as bad as the one I’ve got on there, so I’m not sure if that would be any better.
Really I’d like to throw something like a Bronco strut assembly (one that includes the shock and spring in one unit), but they don’t list anything that’s compatible.
Anyone have any experience with this? Thanks in advance.
Just got a 2009 TRX420. Had 50 hours on it. Not sure if normal for this model but to me it shift harsh. So much so that it chirps the tires on pavement even under moderate throttle. Is this normal? In ESP mode I can shift it and not have the harsh shift points.
I only rode it once before changing the oil. Seemed ok shifting then. I changed the oil since the first owner said it was never changed. The harsh shifting appeared after the oil change. I used Honda 10-40 GN4 oil and a Honda filter. I made sure the filter was installed the correct way with the spring. I did over fill but drained off the excess. I will double check the oil level.
What components might contribute to the harsh shifting? Not sure if its something related to the oil change or I knocked a wire loose somewhere.
I do have the service manual and can go over the auto transmission section.
Just got a 2009 TRX420. Had 50 hours on it. Not sure if normal for this model but to me it shift harsh. So much so that it chirps the tires on pavement even under moderate throttle. Is this normal? In ESP mode I can shift it and not have the harsh shift points.
I only rode it once before changing the oil. Seemed ok shifting then. I changed the oil since the first owner said it was never changed. The harsh shifting appeared after the oil change. I used Honda 10-40 GN4 oil and a Honda filter. I made sure the filter was installed the correct way with the spring. I did over fill but drained off the excess. I will double check the oil level.
What components might contribute to the harsh shifting? Not sure if its something related to the oil change or I knocked a wire loose somewhere.
I do have the service manual and can go over the auto transmission section.
High I recently purchased my 2000 Honda 300 and I haven’t gotten a chance to really inspect it. I’m very new to all this and had plans on learning and repairing it myself. I noticed that when I was loading my atv on to my pick up truck it had a gas leak and also when I lift it up on from the side it also had an oil leak. From just looking around the engine I can’t seem to see any signs of where the leak is coming from. Can any guide as to where I can start looking into better. Sorry for the noob questions. I will try and get u guys pictures after work. Just wondering if there’s usually a common place to look at for something with these kinds of symptoms. Thanks
High I recently purchased my 2000 Honda 300 and I haven’t gotten a chance to really inspect it. I’m very new to all this and had plans on learning and repairing it myself. I noticed that when I was loading my atv on to my pick up truck it had a gas leak and also when I lift it up on from the side it also had an oil leak. From just looking around the engine I can’t seem to see any signs of where the leak is coming from. Can any guide as to where I can start looking into better. Sorry for the noob questions. I will try and get u guys pictures after work. Just wondering if there’s usually a common place to look at for something with these kinds of symptoms. Thanks
Been scoping out the forums for awhile and finally decided to join in. So…
Just want to introduce myself to the forums, I’m from the great tax:biggthumpup: state of Massachusetts. I’m 29 years old been riding four wheelers since I was a young one. Had a Blaster growing up as a kid. Then got a 2005 Bombardier Traxter Max 650 a few years ago. Decided it was finally time to get my big boy pants on and get a real ATV.
So I just recently purchased a 2015 Sportsman XP1000, got a really good deal on it from the local dealer, left over of course, but also came with all the accessories. So as you see front & rear bumpers, stock winch, front storage area, and got a great deal on new helmets.
Been looking into many upgrades and accessories, so once the wallet allows it, I’m sure ill do a few things.
I’m thinking…
Skid Plates, Hand Guards, Hand Warmers, Diff Saver/Upgrade, and of course I got to get rear storage w/a seat for the old lady. I’ll get an exhaust if it becomes an issue.
Read alot about the issues with the exhaust on the 1000’s, Ive got 107miles on mine so far and no issues yet, knock on wood! (Besides it getting pretty hot and seeing it glow good after one long fast night run.)
Well anyways guys hope to learn a lot in the future from here.
I searched and couldn’t find much info on changing out pads on ranchers with the rear disc brake.
I am swapping them out and have a couple questions:
1. The original pad that came off the front side had a metal backing plate with two layers of what looks like heat insulation in between it and the brake pad. The brake pad also had a location pin for that backing plate.
The new brake pads do not have the location pin and doesn’t fit the backing plate very well. Does this need to be reinstalled? Seems like it would probably work loose and fall out. Any anti-seize on the back of the pad?
2. Does the main bolt that the caliper rides on need anti seize on the shaft portion? It came out with a bunch of powdery substance on it. I put anti seize on the "ears" of the brake pads.
Hello, new to the forum. I am looking at buying a 2017 Scrambler 1000. I have had a Sportsman XP 1000 and currently a RZR XP 1000. I keep reading where people say you will get really dirty on a Scrambler. I have no problem with that when out riding trails but every once in a while if I want to take the Scrambler out into the pasture for a quick check on the cows will I be covered in dirt and mud? I plan to add 28" all terrain tires (not sure yet which ones) and maybe fender flares if needed but I don’t want to add flares then it be just as wide as a Sportsman.
Im having trouble keeping the water out of my Clutches
Ive got a Snorkel kit on the bike from Snorkel your atv.
the kit works / installed well, problem is anytime i get above the Clutch covers in water it starts taking on water.
Ive pulled both covers (front and rear) off put a nice bead of silicone on the back housing and reinstalled it , let it set over night, then snugged the bolts up, used RTV high Temp silicone, the whole 9 yards… but it seems to still leak all the Joints / fittings are siliconed and sealed as well …
does anyone have a secret to sealing that puppy up? is there an aftermarket gasket? can i make a gasket? special silicone / Sealant?
any tips would be great. I play in water a fair bit so id like to get it sealed properly
