Ok I have a 2001 Polaris Sportsman 400 4X4 I can not get it to fire. I have replaced the stater and trigger coil. Could it be the CDI?

I am the senior tech at a Polaris dealer in north central NE. I have developed a product that will stop your 850’s from melting the plastic on the right side where the exhaust is. I will have this ready around the first of the year. It will come with detailed instructions and only takes 10 minutes to install. Patent pending and then will be ready to hit the market. I have several out in testing for 6 months of continuous use and the plastic still looks like new and nothing has caught on fire. So bear with me until I can get this thing going.

Hey guys, so a guy in my town is selling a 2012 sportsman 500 with 133hrs/1500 miles. He said it has a blown head gasket or cracked head. His kids were riding it and it overheated, so they parked it. He found a hole in radiator and the cylinder was full of water. He is asking $1000 for it. I’m sure it will need at least a radiator and best case just a head gasket. Do you guys think it is a good deal to buy and try to fix??

So I picked up an 84 trx 200. The previous owner said it went in neutral when they moved it. put it in gear and parked it. Then it sat for a while and when they went to move it again it wouldn’t shift into neutral. So I got it, then tried to adjust the clutch free play and that didnt help it shift. The shift lever does seem to have alot more play than normal.I took the clutch cover off yesterday to see if i could see any problems. When working the shifter it looks like the stopper plate moves, and it shifts into gear when the stopper arm is resting in the little groove. but when i go to shift into neutral or into a higher gear, it will roll up and not continue down into the next grove,( I assume the other gear.) It is a little confusing, and I am learning this as I go. I tried to attach a video I took yesterday to show what is happening, but it didn’t work So I added some pictures. the stopper plate is the star looking thing. and the stopper arm is the little round part sitting in the grove on the stopper plate.But it looks like when it shifts the stopper plate moves, but the stopper arm doesnt end up in the little valley where it should basically. Just wondering what could be messed up, is it the stopper arm or plate. Or would it be more of a problem inside the case?

Attached Thumbnails

 

 

Hello all,

I have a 2000 trail boss i rode for a year. it ran very rich (plug black and exhaust smelled of gasoline) once it got warmed up the engine would bogue down or hesitate after 1/2 throttle. It would shut it down on its own eventually and was unable to restart it again. i would wait a half hour and would start up again. One day shortly after that happened it would’nt start at all.

After that day, i drained the tank and line and tried to rebuild the carb, (carb adjustments and jets were stripped) I replaced the carb with a brand new oem $$$ ouch. checked valve clearance and was tight so readjusted them to .006 at true TDC. (used gauge to check if i was bottom or top stroke @ TDC on flywheel) Still no start

Compression test at 110 psi and held all night (apparently pretty good for a motor with built in decompression valve)

installed new spark plug and coil
no start

i opened top end of motor inspected and polished valves re aligned cam gear and chain to TDC of flywheel. still no start.

I opened flywheel housing seen a lot of rust, removed flywheel and inspected wood ruff key and was good, Stator looked melted. i ordered a new one and removed stator backing plate to look at crankshaft timing gear to see if it sheared its wood ruff key. removed and inspected it was good. reinstalled everything in reverse order including new stator and pick up coil with new electrical harness back to CDI.
still no start.
FYI when i got the atv there was no battery in it and it ran fine (pull start only) i think thats wheat melted the stator, having nowere to send its charge?

when i turn it over the plug gets wet and once every 5-10 turns it fart out the back of the carb. (i believe that means timing issue?)
Mechanically i know the motor is timed and have re timed it several times

So i have spark, bright blue
i have fuel, wet plug
and i have air
it has to be timing.

**No amount of gas in the plug hole or starter fluid in the carb intake helps either**

with a new stator
a new P/U coil
new battery
new plug
new coil
all i realy have left that has anything to do with timing is my CDI?
somebody please tell me i am missing something.

Well after doing some research I was ready to buy my slip on. It was a muzzy. Went to order it to find out they are out of business. Sucks. So now I need to pick a nother one. I am looking for a good performance slip on that isn’t crazy loud. Any recommendations? I was on the phone with dobeck performance and they were great to deal with. Answered all my questions and explained all there products. Once I order a slip on I will be ordering my programmer from dobeck,

I just picked up a Predator 500, the engine and frame are different years and i would like to figure out exactly what year the engine is. The VIN doesn’t do me any good and the only number i can find on the engine is an ES number.

Honda 500fa1 help
My bike threw the rod out of the crankcase and I have a 2000 450es engine laying around. Would it be a pretty easy engine swap? Any advice would be appreciated.

I have 2003 Rubicon that I was rebuilding the front end (ball joints, wheel bearings, front diff bearings). I had the honda shop rebuild the front diff. I put it all back together and it was extremely difficult to steer and would pop while turning. I thought the axles were bad so I bought a set of axles. It made it a little easier to steer but it was still hard to steer and popping while turning. Long story short, I narrowed it down to the front diff. I took it back to the honda shop and they told me that when they took it apart the first time for the rebuild it didn’t have any oil in it and it had water in it and that it was really rusted on the inside. They are telling me that the cam follower set/gear had so much rust on it that it pitted the metal and that is what is causing the popping. That part is $200+.

It seems to me like the limited slip is not working. But the shop is saying that this is the problem.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

I have a 2014 outlander xt and I can’t get it to switch from 2×4 to 4×4. I’ve already replaced the actuator and I manually put it in 4×4 mode when I was putting it back on. But still can’t get it to switch back and fourth. How do I tell if the switch itself is bad or not? I know it’s not the fuse because the 12volt plug and winch works and it’s all on the same fuse. Just not sure how to check the switch.