I’m sure you guys are tired of all my newbie questions. I ordered a Gates belt for my new Outlander 570 Max. I’m going to replace the belt myself because the squeaking sux ! Do you have to remove the floorboard on a 2016 / 2017 to get the CVT cover off ?

I’m sure you guys are tired of all my newbie questions. I ordered a Gates belt for my new Outlander 570 Max. I’m going to replace the belt myself because the squeaking sux ! Do you have to remove the floorboard on a 2016 / 2017 to get the CVT cover off ?

Looks like Yamaha added a center mounted headlight on the handlebars in 2016. Has anyone tried to retrofit it onto a older bike (2015)

Hi everyone. Has anybody installed COB LED angel eyes/halo rings with the plastic difuser cover on a 2017 Outlander 1000? if so what size did you use for the front four lights, rear two lights, and two rear reflectors? Are they holding up well. I did some measuring on my lights and found some that looked like they might fit but they only gave the dimensions for the light without the cover. I don’t want to reorder another size if possible. I have seen some complete kits with no dimensions just model specific and kind of pricey for what they are. Thanks Tom.

Finally got a toy haulerhttp://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/57ff6ea92131e/part0.jpg?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Morning all, I have been a member for a couple of years. Not very active because the ATV I am working on belongs to a friend and I try to keep it going for him because he lets me hunt on his property.

My wireless ISP stopped providing E-mail service without any kind of notice to me. I could not remember my password because I had not been on here for a while, so I had to go to a gmail account and establish a new log-in ID and password.

Anyway, you guys are a big help when I run into something I don’t understand. The machine I work on is a 1999 Sportsman 500 that the original owner beat on pretty hard. Now it is just used to get back and forth to the hunting area, slow speed trail with no mud or deep water, so it sees very light duty.

Thanks,

Wayne

Been happening more and more…

Donkey with a 2-3-4 foot light bar on the roof of their UTV..Blinding all rides coming the opposite direction.

In broad daylight these dicks never and I mean never dim them.
At a meeting last Monday night our Town Chairman complained about them being on the road/routes blinding motorists .

What to do?
Retina burning Green laser?
2 mil candlewatt shining light?
Serve all over the trail?
Snake Charmer? (just kidding with this one)

I hate to bring this up but it drives me nuts that nobody ever considers this

The Polaris machine with the exception of the old Predator does not have a wet clutch system. ATV/Motorcycle oils are designed to accommodate the clutch when they share the same oil with the engine so the friction modifiers are LEFT OUT. This is so enough friction can occur to operate the clutch without slippage. In short..the oil is designed to allow more friction to accommodate the wet clutch and lubricate the engine too. This is why you can’t pour automotive oil with all the friction modifiers in it into a jap motorcycle or 400ex Honda for example. The oil will be too " slick" and will cause the clutch to slip. But that sacrifice made for the clutch applies to all the other moving parts. It’s actually a sacrifice made in order to be able to lube the engine AND let the clutch grab enough to work Follow me??

Now to my point. Why on earth would Polaris design it’s oil without the friction modifier additives when their machines don’t have wet clutch??? Do a Amsoil search and it comes up recommendation 5w-50 ATV oil for Sportsman 570 and clearly states it has no friction modifiers .

The friction modifiers ARE A GOOD THING!! Since we have no wet clutch we can use oil that has the additives that make it as "slick" and lubricious as possible! So it evades me why people keep pouring in this oil which is engineered to allow more friction into engines that share fluids with its clutch system. Harley Davidson big twins are the same way. I quit using motorcycle oil and switched to a high quality racing oil for cars and it ran cooler and all the top end ticking Harley’s are known for disappeared. Why?? Because I added a oil that contained friction modifiers and it lubed my top end much better. ( Harley guys…it was Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil).

Just a thinker for y’all. Take it or leave it. But a ATV/Motorcycle oil is designed to allow more friction for a reason, and not having that reason (clutch) to worry about we should be putting in the slickest lubricant we possibly can. ATV-MC wet clutch approved oil is a meet in the middle sacrifice between lubricating the engine but not so damn good that it makes the clutch slip.

sportsman 570 hear complaints about heat. I’m ready to change break in oil and have chosen to use Amsoil Signature Series 5w-50 instead of Amsoil ATV 5w-50 for reasons above. Will report back on any internal engine noise reduction or heat reduction that occurs.

Btw…the Signature series 5w-50 was designed for the high HP Ford Mustang engine that requires 5-50 oil. It has all the goodies in it to make the oil as slick as possible. its the only 5-50 oil I could find that didn’t have the friction modifiers left out. Can’t wait to see the results

AND NO…I’m not saying your Polaris wet clutch approved or other MC oil is going to grenade your engine. Im only saying we can reap the advantage of not having a wet clutch system and use oils fully focused on eliminating as much friction between moving parts as possible.

Hey guys,

Brand new to the forums, but I’ve had a lingering problem with my atv.

Basically, I got this quad off a friend when he blew the motor on it. I bought a used motor and swapped it right in. I did a leak down test and adjusted the valves. Don’t know the hours on it. Figured it would be a cool project.

Got it running. It idles great, but would bog down and almost die when I open up the throttle. Does ok when you lightly push in the throttle, but when you slam it down for power, it Boggs out, usually dies if I leave it wide open.

Here’s what I’ve tried;
Cleaned the carburetor. Took it completely apart and soaked everything in carb cleaner bucket for about 10 hours (while I was at work) then put it back together, and it idled better, but had the same problem.

Then I bought a brand new carburetor for it. Just wanted to cut out the tinkering and was frustrated. Installed it, and still have the same problem. Starts right up. Idles great, let it get to operating temperature, then push the throttle down, its spits and sputters till it dies!!

I’m really stuck here guys. I’ve come to the forums before and found some great tips without even posting..I’m stumped! Any help would be appreciated.

When I saw the dust on the intake, and saw that the donut was dry, I assumed that dust either got past the donut, which is not pushed up against the airbox very well, or got through the donut which was not lubed.

But looking at this photo again, I see some dust on the air filter holder, between the screen and the donut. It seems to me that any dust that came in through or past the donut would have then proceeded on into the engine, and therefore would NOT have gone against the air flow and settled on the inside of the holder.

Therefore I wonder if the stock filter, with the stock lube on it, wasn’t sealed up against the holder or didn’t stop the dust from coming through it.

In all of my rides since then, I have been in front and so there has not been any opportunity to find out if it is still letting dust in.

Your thoughts?