New guy from Nashville TN

Just bought a used 2016 Grizzly 700 eps from an old guy who bought it to ride with grand kids and never really did. 200 miles and $7000. I have it all torn apart and doing a GNCC style build.
Should be cool. Stay tuned. I’m in the Nashville TN area. Anyone want to ride? Looks like a great group.

Moto 4 250 quad

Hi everyone. I’m a newbie here,from the UK. I have recently acquired a Yamaha Moto 4 250 quad. It has been layed up for the last two years in a barn. The farmer that owned it,had it for around 15 years. I now have it and was hoping for some help.
I cant read the VIN number as its rusted over and is so faint,can only just make out two numbers.
Anyway,got it running today,after cleaning the carb,but when I turn it off,fuel flows into the air box.
I am hoping somebody can identify the carb from a picture so I can either buy a new carb or get a rebuild kit.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Rear wheel bearings for base model Sportsman 570

Doing some reasearch, my left rear wheel had a TON more camber to it than all the other wheels. Put it on a jack, and the wheel had at least a quarter inch of wobble in it, way more than the others. Pulled the wheel and the hub, and the bearings and pieces of them fell out. The out shell of the bearings are of course stuck in there, so I have them soaking in liquid wrench and I will have to try to pound them out or cut them out with a Dremel…

In the meantime, I need to get get a new one.

I went through the OEM’s around 700 miles, and I am now around 1200 miles and these are All Balls… Where we ride there is most mud and water and sand, very abrasive stuff.

Rather than order All Ballz, I remember seeing something about a front wheel bearing for a Ford Escort being a crossover part for our rear bearings? The Advance Auto down the street has these in stock, but I want to make sure that it is the right part number before I pick it up.

Anyone know if this one will work?

Driveworks Front Wheel Bearing S-510013: Advance Auto Parts

Thanks!

DS70 Light Bulb Replacement LED help

I bought my step daughter a 2013 Can AM DS 70, which is lightly used… I was curious to see if anyone is familiar with the head light bulb and if there is a better LED replacement bulb out there.

The bulb shows 12v 5 watt and is a single filament that has the flange or washer collar on it. The collar has a small part sticking out to keep the bulb from rotating.

Has anyone ever switched these out with a brighter LED? I’m just wanting the light to be bright and for everyone to see her for safety. Also, the DS70 doesn’t have a rear running / brake light. Has anyone put one on for additional safety?

Here’s a link to the bulb part #:LIGHT V33100DGF000 Can-Am Can-Am V33100DGF000 – Light : Fox Powersports Can-Am Partshouse

Please let me know if you know this single contact single filament bulb so I can get a LED replacement. Also, if you know of an LED replacement that’s nice and bright, please also let me know. Thanks, Joel

"Moderators" please move to an appropriate section if needed. I didn’t see a forum section for "electrical" or Lighting, nor one for smaller DS70’s & DS90’s

Attached Images
File Type: jpg ds70 bulb.jpg (18.0 KB)

Turns over but dies, or just seems dead.

Hey there! New to the ATV world and forum. So lets get this started with a little backstory of my situation.

Recently I bought a 2008 sportsman 500 HO EFI for a good price, knowing it needed some work. I like to tinker so I figured why not. Literally knowing nothing about ATVs I decided to challenge myself and go through with the purchase.

Known issues:

  • MPH didn’t work.
  • 4WD didn’t work.
  • RPM didn’t work.
  • Rear boots torn.
  • Battery light kept flashing.

Along with a few other minor cosmetic things.

What I have done so far:

  • Replaced the speed sensor, (unrelated to this issue), but fixed the MPH.
  • 4WD works now, but very clunky, I bought an aluminum roller cage and rollers, (not installed yet, not a priority).
  • Bought a Caltric stator/pulse coil combo and voltage regulator and installed.
  • Fixed both rear boots, new axles on order though.
  • Bought a new belt, the one installed looks freaking perfect though, its a good backup.

So now we go into the problem at hand. Most of the stuff I have done has gone smooth, I just take my time and google the crap out of stuff. So in order of the installs I have done.

  • CV boots. These were actually the most pain due to trying to band them while on the ATV.
  • Speed sensor.
  • Adjusted the thumb throttle due to excess play. It never caused a cutout though.
  • Stator and pulse coil. Was running perfect except for the flashing battery icon.
  • Voltage regulator. Seemed to fix the battery icon. Still running.

Now this is where I am confused. It seemed that when I went to change the belt things stopped working. It’s a simple process of removing the old belt and putting the new one on. I have read that sometimes with aftermarket belts, it can bind one or both clutches and stall it. Both clutches move freely with the new and old belt installed.

Troubleshooting I have done, all while screaming :wtf1:

  • Threw the old belt on, same result.
  • Plugged in the old voltage regulator, same result.
  • Threw the old stator and pulse coil back on, same result.
  • Checked the thumb throttle for cutout, same result.

When I go to start it, it almost sounds like it’s not getting gas. I give it throttle and it will rev up, sometimes sputtering, but it will stay running. To me this can rule out a fuel pump and the associated relays/fuses. When I let off of the throttle, it shuts down immediately. Then when I go to restart it it does 1 of 2 things. 1, it takes a second for it to turn back over and I can repeat the process, or 2, I turn the key and get nothing, no cranking no starting. I hear the audible sounds of the fuel pump turning on to prime the system and the audible clicks when i turn the key fully off.

Could this be as simple as an ignition switch? The last thing I remember messing with was the ignition switch to try and straighten it out, but this was just moving and tightening the plastic nut that holds it to the light pod.

Or do you think I should try to look at something else?

Sorry for the long post but I was to give as much info as possible. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You, Chris

Turns over but dies, or just seems dead.

Hey there! New to the ATV world and forum. So lets get this started with a little backstory of my situation.

Recently I bought a 2008 sportsman 500 HO EFI for a good price, knowing it needed some work. I like to tinker so I figured why not. Literally knowing nothing about ATVs I decided to challenge myself and go through with the purchase.

Known issues:

  • MPH didn’t work.
  • 4WD didn’t work.
  • RPM didn’t work.
  • Rear boots torn.
  • Battery light kept flashing.

Along with a few other minor cosmetic things.

What I have done so far:

  • Replaced the speed sensor, (unrelated to this issue), but fixed the MPH.
  • 4WD works now, but very clunky, I bought an aluminum roller cage and rollers, (not installed yet, not a priority).
  • Bought a Caltric stator/pulse coil combo and voltage regulator and installed.
  • Fixed both rear boots, new axles on order though.
  • Bought a new belt, the one installed looks freaking perfect though, its a good backup.

So now we go into the problem at hand. Most of the stuff I have done has gone smooth, I just take my time and google the crap out of stuff. So in order of the installs I have done.

  • CV boots. These were actually the most pain due to trying to band them while on the ATV.
  • Speed sensor.
  • Adjusted the thumb throttle due to excess play. It never caused a cutout though.
  • Stator and pulse coil. Was running perfect except for the flashing battery icon.
  • Voltage regulator. Seemed to fix the battery icon. Still running.

Now this is where I am confused. It seemed that when I went to change the belt things stopped working. It’s a simple process of removing the old belt and putting the new one on. I have read that sometimes with aftermarket belts, it can bind one or both clutches and stall it. Both clutches move freely with the new and old belt installed.

Troubleshooting I have done, all while screaming :wtf1:

  • Threw the old belt on, same result.
  • Plugged in the old voltage regulator, same result.
  • Threw the old stator and pulse coil back on, same result.
  • Checked the thumb throttle for cutout, same result.

When I go to start it, it almost sounds like it’s not getting gas. I give it throttle and it will rev up, sometimes sputtering, but it will stay running. To me this can rule out a fuel pump and the associated relays/fuses. When I let off of the throttle, it shuts down immediately. Then when I go to restart it it does 1 of 2 things. 1, it takes a second for it to turn back over and I can repeat the process, or 2, I turn the key and get nothing, no cranking no starting. I hear the audible sounds of the fuel pump turning on to prime the system and the audible clicks when i turn the key fully off.

Could this be as simple as an ignition switch? The last thing I remember messing with was the ignition switch to try and straighten it out, but this was just moving and tightening the plastic nut that holds it to the light pod.

Or do you think I should try to look at something else?

Sorry for the long post but I was to give as much info as possible. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You, Chris

Transmission Blew Apart at 1551 miles 2012 Grizzly 700

Hey guys…
I am a faithful Grizzly owner… I ride my bike hard in the mud and have never had a single issue with it.. Not even a torn axle boot,
So this is sorta crazy to me…

It broke and bad , oil is leaking from where the engine splits down the center….. I do not see a crack but when it came apart it blew the coolant overflow resivour cap off ..lol

Has anyone had this happen and is there any fix for the new motor/trans?

Any recommendations on best place to find a case or solid rebuild?

Here is the video of when it came apart….

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