Have a Viper winch (3000 Ib) for 2 years. I noticed at the end of last years plow season, the aluminum rollers that the cables runs in / out on was significantly rutted on one side, to the point where it actually damaged the steel cable. It was the end if the season and I just flipped the roller.
I am using a 60" Plow.
I was surprised that this happened – I only plow for myself – and last season was not bad.
Are these rollers a weak link in this winch?
Are there any aftermarket rollers I can get for this winch – or do I replace the whole roller housing with an aftermarket product?
I recently bought a project 03 predator 500. Was told it needed a timing chain so i installed the new chain and tensioner. While everything was apart, i noticed that the clutch basket had a stripped bolt so i order a new and put back together. Took it out for the first time and noticed that i had gears N-1-2 but 3-4-5 were hard to get into. Easier when warmed up. Took everything back apart and lined the clutches back up with the last one lining to the basket. Everything went back together and took it out. Now it seems like i dont have N-1 but the 2-3-4-5 are working fine now. Could this be a shifter pin or something simple i am overlooking. I dont have the manual yet, but is there any thing to look for in the pins or clutches that i can trouble shoot. Thanks
Get Ready! The November 2016 Honda ATV of the month contest is starting RIGHT NOW! This month we are looking for the best photo that features your Honda ATV. So get out there, get creative, enjoy some safe riding and take some photos! We welcome everyone including vendors to participate. The winner of the contest is decided by you the community, so stick around for the voting process.
The photo must be posted in this thread.
Only one picture will be allowed, so make it your best!
You must be the owner of the Polaris ATV.
Please include a description of your ATV with a list of all modifications and enhancements.
You can only win once every 12 months
Voting will begin around November 15th, 2016 and run to the end of the month. Once the voting ends we will publish the winning photos on the front page and the winners will also receive:
HONDAATVFORUMS Stickers
Premium Membership
$25 Gift Card
Your bike will be featured on the home page of the site
Anyone here done a high compression piston or thought about it? WISECO makes a 11 and a 12:1 piston for the new 708cc engine. I am really considering pulling the head for some mild port work and a 12:1 piston and seeing what will happen.
Forgive my English, I’m from Spain. I really wanted to share my videos with this very active community. Some time ago I upload videos to YouTube on quads, for my friends. But I’ve been thinking about opening a channel time, and today and done. I want to share with you! I started with an abductor 350 and now also have a grizzly 700. Since a year ago, and happier with I can not be.
I share my last three videos, but we have more on the channel.
I hope you like them and you enjoy them. Best regards of a Spanish rider.
I have a mig welder to do some welding and thought I build some running boards for my 86 Fourtrax 350.
I see the foot pegs come off via two bolts. Not sure if that will be all I need for supports .
Was thinking of mount them just a little lower than the foot peg may be even with the floor boards.
Does anyone have any pictures or in site .
I have a problem with my ride. I’ve done the carb tuning right, cleaning the lines, and changing the oil. Now it runs good, but when I am in the high rpm, it starts to bog and die. Don’t know the problem please help with this understanding.
Hey everyone, new to the forum and to Polaris..but not new to atvs. I picked up an ’03 Trailblazer that has been mostly dismantled. The previous owner has the transmission out of it, and says that he pulled it out and had a shop put new bearing in it, but is missing a pulley off of it. The case is together, and both splines spin..just don’t spin together. I have not tried messing with the gear selector shaft on it to see if it’s in neutral yet or not.
Is there a way to tell if the trans is good without pulling the cases apart? I hesitate to pull it apart without a diagram, as I am still waiting on a manual to come in the mail for this atv.
The pulley I have found on ebay, but have not purchased yet. Also, does someone make a rebuild kit for these transmissions if it is messed up internally? I’d imagine the kit would be cheaper than finding another transmission for it.
A couple of months ago, I purchased a 60" Moose plow, push tubes, and mid body mount kit for my 2016 Honda Rubicon. I wasn’t going to post about my issues, but I feel I should based on the experience I have had.
I’m on my 3rd 60" straight blade from Moose in the last 2 months. None of which have ever been mounted to the push tubes or used at all. All of them have had significant paint flaws which I was not happy with and were returned to my dealer. The last plow I received didn’t have any flaws on the face of the blade, like the others did, but when I flipped it over to put a couple coats of wax on the back side I noticed a crack in the paint. At this point I am beyond frustrated, so I grabbed an 1.5" putty knife and LIGHTLY started to work at the loose paint. I couldn’t believe how easily it peeled off the blade!!! I got up to the sticker on the back side and pulled the sticker off and it peeled a large portion of the pain off with it!!!! I have contacted Moose and sent them pictures and their response was simply "have you dealer handle it". To say I am very disappointed with their customer service….or rather, lack there of would be an understatement.
Unfortunately, I have already modified my lower skid plate to accept the mid body mount from Moose. At this point I think I am going to contact my dealer and see if they will accept the items from Moose as a return and order me a KFI plow, push tube, and mount kit. I’ll also have to purchase a new lower skid plate as I had to do some minor modifications to it to use it in conjunction with the mid body mount from Moose and I’m just that picky that I’ll want a new one so it looks nice.
Oops, lets try again: I have a ’86 250 Fourtrax. The choke is sensitive. A 3/4 choke causes lots of smoke. If I give it full choke it won’t run for more then 20 seconds even when cold. And if I back off on the choke the idle is too low and it starves out. I can’t seem to be able to access the choke cable at the carb connection. Nor do I have any schematics of what it looks like inside. I removed the carb from the engine but it is held on still to throttle cable and choke cable. Does the choke access come by taking off the bowl on bottom of carb? I need to remove these some how to make an adjustment? And how would I do this? And what is the proper adjustment that would either increase idle by increasing choke or adjust choke so that it doesn’t choke out the engine as, is usually the case?
I spent an hour looking at old threads to no avail.
It does seem to run rich after warming up w/choke off, as you can smell it at the exhaust. Always been that way, but doesn’t seem to burn much oil, even though engine seems loose. Also the cam chain tensioner is loose. No adjustment left. Someone seemed to have welded it to build up metal. Won’t this scar the cam? If not, should I try to do that again to keep it from ticking at various idle revs.
