Hello, just bought a used 450 Kodiak, the seller advertised it as a 2006, but when I got home I found the owner’s manual under the seat with a "sold in 2003" sticker on it. The previous owner sent me an electronic repair manual that he had bought for it, says YFM450FAR on it, from what I can find on the web the "R" corresponds to 2003. I checked the serial no., and if I’m reading it correctly, indicates a 2006 model (10th digit is a 6). Owners manual shows where to check on the wheeler for a model no. sticker, found the attached sticker but I don’t know what to make of it. So, do I have a 2003 or 2006 or something else?
I was frustrated that for safety factor, there was no rear light on the DS70… SO, I decided to make my own. I was concerned with the power output of the elec system, but by converting the daytime running lights to LED, I freed up 5 watts, which I could use for the tail light.
It’s a simple 6 dollar low profile LED "truck lite" market light. Just use some angle aluminum and rubber coated hose clamps…. Run a ground back to your relay, and splice a hot wire by your headlight harness.
Well, batteries & bulbs did not have the bulb, nor did any auto parts store… the can am dealer wanted $17.99 for each bulb…. I thought that was BS…. SOOOO I created my own LED solution to increase the brightness and safety factor to ensure the DS70 light is seen from far away, even in peak daylight.
Step one… Remove bulb, break the outer glass… remove all glass, be sure to NOT damage or break off the two filament holder wires. Take the base off the LED light, and cut the flat piece off, and slide the base cap "bottom" back on. This helps hold the circuit board in place better. Solder the two leads from the LED Light to the two Filament holder wires. I recommend bending the filament wires down so the light doesn’t stick out so far, or make the light too long. You still want to use some of the reflector in the light housing.
Make sure everything is in place and put the bulb back in.. It’s as simple as that. It makes a HUGE difference. Each of these LED super bright bulbs uses 2.5 watts, where the incandescent used 5 watts each. This allows extra wattage to power the soon to be added tail light. You can definitely see the difference.
my 01 600 was running fine and now wont start. not getting spark. plug wire and coil seem fine i tried them on my dad’s 99 600. what do i check next. seems to be several things that it could be. any suggestions on what to check first
I’ve noticed on my 2016 Grizzly when going from park to high or from high to park the transmission is very sticky.Even from neutral to park or to high. Meaning hard to get in and out of gear. Anyone else with this? Any adjustment, I have a four year warranty but not sure I want to hear "that’s normal"
I am sneaking up on twenty hours.
my 01 600 was running fine then one morning it would not start. After several attempts it fired ran fine until tuned off and back to not starting. the coil and plug wire seem fine. what now ?
my 01 600 was running fine then one morning it would not start. After several attempts it fired ran fine until tuned off and back to not starting. the coil and plug wire seem fine. what now ?
Ok, so the 2nd ride on my XMR 570 when brand new, it died and was blowing a fuse saying "transmission default low battery voltage". So I took it to the dealer where I bought it and all they did was tighten the ground wire on the frame and it has ran fine ever since. This week I had a winch and sound bar installed, and I also installed an HMF slip on exhaust and after riding it for about about 3 hours this weekend it died again and throwing the same code blowing the same fuse. I tried tightening the ground like last time but it didn’t fix it. I’m thinking that it probably has something to do with the work that was done on it this week. Any suggestions?
Hello forum, Started out fan stayed on (w/key on)check engine on. Would not flash code of any kind. Then started dying randomly. Then dying all the time. Cranks good sometimes starts 10seconds then dies. ECM P/N 4012891. Cannot find this number anywhere. Not Bosch Not Polaris. 1. Anyone Know why? 2. Tried ECM websites say fits my machine. I can check codes know (none) cluster lights up. Turn key on no power to anything. Actually I think it would be more accurate to say no ground to anything which I think the ECM controls. No fuel pump, no crank. When I ground the circuits individually they work. What could be holding the system up? Will this ECM work in my 800? Baffled. Anyway any wisdom would be greatly appreciated. I’m missing my Quad.
Hello everyone, sorry in advance if this is answered elsewhere, I’ve spent several hours looking without success.
I have a 2013 Sportsman 500HO and just came home from a ride yesterday with my daughters where I got pretty paranoid. After about 3 1/2 hours of riding, I started to get a very VERY loud banging, popping noise that you could certainly tell was in the back, and you could feel in your butt through the seat. This happens at 1/2 – 3/4 acceleration to the point you think something is about to fly apart, so loud, a group of side by side guys heard it a trail away over their machines. Also started happening while trying to get back to the truck when going up hills and the strain was a bit more than just a regular trail.
Happens in L, H, R, and 2wd or AWD.
This is definitely not the sound most hear when decelerating.
I replaced the right cv axle before the last ride, the left was replaced not long ago. Feels like something far more serious, but could just be paranoia kicking my butt.
Could anyone chime in with an idea of what it could be from possible experience? Thanks in advance for all the help and for your time.
