Hello, i am new to this forum and am wondering if i can put 420 shocks on my 300 4×4. It has a big red rear end and other than that it is stock suspension and drive train.

Hey guys I have a Sportsman 500 that has a electric problem I belive. So this is what it is doing I have resently replaced the start/stop/lights handlebar switch, when conected to the motherboard you can start the atv and shut it of, all the lights work. But the four wheeler starts to what seems like is miss fire. when disconnected I can start the atv with the pull start and it will run just fine. If anyone knows maybe some sort of diagnosis I can run or what I can do to find the malfunction I would greatly appreciate it.

Think I let the 350 sit too long, old gas maybe clogged up carb. Took it off, cleaned it out with carb cleaner and seafoam, jets, everything..and blew it out with compressed air. After reassembly, it will not idle unless the choke is on. Any throttle movement at all kills it. Green staining in bowl and on jets…any ideas or suggestions are welcome..thanks!

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I just bough a used 1998 300 fourtrax and it’s leaking oil through a missing bolt in the starter cover. Does anyone know what size and length these bolts are? Or a link where to buy them.

Thanks,
Chase

This is a (long) story of how one thing leads to another…

I ride a 2015 touring 1000 with my 7 year old daughter normally on the back. After bashing the underside of my quad repeatedly on rocks during our Drummond Island riding adventure this past spring, to the point that the skid plate was rubbing on the engine block causing serious vibrations throughout the machine, I decided that I needed more ground clearance.

Conveniently, it was right after that when I noticed that one of my factory Polaris tires had a bulge in the sidewall. I took the opportunity to upgrade from the factory 26" tires to 28" Bearclaw HTR radial tires for an extra inch of ground clearance. The Bearclaws are great, although I don’t see what all the fuss is about radial tires, but whatever. The new tires rubbed on the underside of the rear passenger foot rest area, so I needed to fix that.

After much debating over the available lift kit choices I decided on the High Lifter 2" lift because I didn’t want to have to worry about buying HD axles. I bought the lift and installed it. The parts were high quality, the install was quick and easy with only basic tools required, and I was happy with the results. I now had an extra 3 inches of ground clearance over stock, the machine looked way tougher, and I didn’t have a problem clearing good sized rocks in the trail. I do still get a slight rub when I’m really powering over big whoops in the sand, but nothing that I’m worried about. BUT, on my first or second ride after installing the lift, I started noticing that the front wheels (AWD) would engage when I was hard on the throttle and the front end was light, or if I was crawling through deep sand. Basically it happened whenever the front suspension was extended. I changed the front diff oil because I read that dirty oil could cause the symptoms I was experiencing. There were significant amount of shavings on the magnet, so I cleaned the magnet, put the fresh oil in. The problem was still not solved.

I didn’t think I would need axles with just a 2" lift, but it seemed that I was wrong. Back to the internet I go to research HD axles. I decided on Cobra axles because when I called them, a guy answered immediately who sounded like he was working in a shop. He had the answers to all of my questions. There was no answering service, or secretary, or waiting on hold. I like that kind of business. I bought both front axles and they showed up at my door about 5 days later. Again, installation was pretty straight forward. It took me about an hour and a half to do both but I’d never done axles on a quad before. If I had to do it again tomorrow, I could probably swap out both in a half hour. I also drained and refilled the diff oil again, and again there was a significant amount of metal shavings on the magnet. MUCH to my disappointment, the problem was STILL NOT SOLVED!!:pedro:

I was thinking I was going to have to take the diff out and inspect the internals for damage or wear. I did some research and I was all ready to dig in. I decided to try one more thing before taking the drastic step of pulling the diff. I decided to swap out the Demand Drive fluid for Amsoil synthetic tractor/hydraulic transmission fluid 5w30. This time when I drained the oil, there were very few shavings on the magnet (I had only ridden it about a half mile since the last change though). After adding the Amsoil, I took it for a spin and lo-and-behold the quad stays in 2WD when I have the switch in 2WD mode!!!:guitar: Next I checked 4X4, and that works too!! Woohoo!!

Anyway, I’m not sure if it was the Amsoil itself that fixed the problem, or the repeated oil changes that removed all of the friction causing contamination in the oil, but either way, I’m cautiously optimistic that this will be the long term solution. I got the idea to try the Amsoil from this post. So, I’m not the only one for whom this has apparently worked.

The Amsoil hasn’t been trail tested in my rig yet, but I’m looking forward to the next ride now. After my next ride, I’ll check for shavings again, and if it’s clean, I’ll be happy.

On a side note: if anyone needs a set of stock front axles for a Sportsman 1000 with about 1500 miles on them, let me know.

Yesterday, I picked up the 2017 XP 1000 Stealth…….what a machine! Polaris made some upgrades this year…..i.e., increased front/rear storage box, stainless steel muffler & heat shields to name a few.

I will take it out for its maiden voyage for muzzleloader deer hunting on Monday. Over the weekend, I will be adding extended racks, front/rear bumpers, heated grips, and A-Arm Guards. From just taking it off the trailer to the garage……I am very impressed.

Tried to order a Service Manual and 3500 lb. winch; but was told at the dealership that the manual is not available yet, plus, the 3500 lb. winch has not be designed yet by Polaris for the XP 1000.

?????? Has anyone heard when the manual & winch might be available?

TIA

First, thanks for all the info on this forum – I’ve been stalking for some time. Good stuff here.

2013 Sportsman 500 is overheating. Fan was running in the pasture when the machine overheated, but won’t kick on in the shop at all.

Fan runs on a 12v battery
Fan relay tests out fine
Fuses all good
Breaker was blown, replaced it (dealer sold me an overpriced 20A, said was OK, even though OEM was 10A? Makes me nervous)
New coolant, burped, etc.
When testing the coolant temp sending unit, NOT getting any resistance reading
Have not pulled the thermostat yet, or examined the pump

I read somewhere that if the machine is running and the coolant temp sensor is unplugged, the fan should come on automatically, which makes sense. However, it does not come on.

Paid $50 for the cyclepedia manual which does not say squat about the thermal unit except a brief mention under the section on the Power Distribution Module. The thermal unit does not appear anywhere on their wiring schematic. Disappointing.

Question: What are the proper thermal sensor resistances for 2013 Sportsman 500 carbed?

Question: Any ideas why the fan doesn’t kick on when sensor is unplugged?

It seems like a big coincidence that the fan and the thermal unit would both fail at the same time.

I must be missing something. Thanks in advance!

Got a 1998 Grizzly 600. Trying to figure out why my "Oil Temp" light does not come on. From what I can tell, the light should come on while the "Start" button is engaged. Yes, I have checked the bulb. The bulb is getting power, but the ground is not working. The wire is good all the way to the plug that goes into the "Fan Control Unit".

I did not see in my service manual where it tells how to check the FCU. Can anyone tell me? I think I have an idea just be looking at the schematic.

Thanks

I just bought an 07 rincon after driving about 50 miles or so I keep hearing a moaning noise in the drive line it’s worse when I push on the throttle then seems to go away when I let off I thought it was the bearings in the final drive so I took it out and the bearings are fine! Also I wiggled the wheels the wheel bearings all seem to be good! I took sealed bearings
out of the final drive and my new ones are not sealed which do I need any help would be great also could it it be the pinion bearing it seems to spin fine and doesn’t have any play!

I’ll be plowing for the first time with my grizzly this year. I was just curious if anyone has had any parts (ball joints, CV joints etc..) wear out prematurely due to plowing.

Thanks in advance.