Been lurking on here for a few years now. I just brought home a 2013 S with 37 hours & 271 miles, one owner. This is my second 800S, this one much nicer than my 2012. Are there any quick mods i should do before heading into the woods? Like any electrical components that should be relocated to higher ground, etc…
The lady already said she had to replace the sensor that puts it in limp mode which is crazy to me since it’s hardly been ridden.
How does the factory skid plate hold up on these? My other one had a thick uhmw skid the po had installed. Also I’m not a fan of this roof, let’s too much rain in. Do the side inserts help keep you any dryer and if so where can I find them? Any other ideas are appreciated!
I’ll make this simple and sweet
2012 rzr 800s le 3700 miles
Was starting to have a hard time to accelerate off of idle I would mash the gas and it would then go then be fine but this was after a hot soak and then restart. The check engine light came on and gave me a code 51 for injector #1. Purchased a factory injector and installed. Test ran and still have code 51 found some chaffed wiring by the starter for the tps sensor repaired wiring and still getting the same code. (But still ran good to this point ) ran in some water to clean the skid pan and then was stalling and would only idle. Shut off and let dry for about 30 min. Then it would run good. I decided to look further into it removed throttle body and found the pins in the connector spread open.removed the pins and and found 2 weak strand of wiring to the tps. Installed and soldered new pins in and adjusted the tps. Tested the 5 volt reference signal to the sensor and found it only getting 3.3 volts :rollfinger: found another good 5 volt reference signal and jumped it to the tps sensor wiring and the code went away but now it is idling around 1700 rams with no codes. But yet when I disconnect the tps it shows a code 51.
Has a new air filter this year and always cleaned
New throttle cable that is at its stop in the throttle body and has proper slack
Throttle body looks good and everything tight
I have a 2009 rzr s 800 with the motor transmission diffs wiring from a
2013. It was done by the previous owner and he did an OK job.
One of the thing that he didnt do correctly was the fuel pump. He kept the fuel pump from the 2009 and at some point he removed the regulator and
Put another pump as a replacement at its place.
Anyway a couple days ago I found with the help of some
Really good members here that the fuel pump was pulling way too much voltage. I decided that at the same time I should by a new pump assembly but since I have the tank from the 2009 I bought the adsembly from a 2009.
I got it today. I was super happy and decided to install it. The bike started right away but it was running really bad. No power but no code. I then decided for fun to try my old pump. Yes it pulled a lot of voltage but I just wanted to make sure that thr new used pump assembly that I got had a bad pump. Indeed after putting the old pump in the assembly the bike stsrted and it ran perfect. Great power and all. I will order a new pump tomorrow morning from a 1993 wrangler 2.5l. If anyone has another pump thst I could check the price on and that you know works let me know.
Now my real issue is that the 2013 pump has 4 wire and the 2009 has 3. The gas gauge does work In the cluster but its backward. It shows empty when its full and full when its empty.
When I have the assembly in my hand it shows a red wire and a black wire that goes to the lever so does anyone know what I can do to make it work?
Also when I had it in my hand and played with the lever with the fuel pump fuse removed. It didnt seem to work too good. When I played sith the lever the cluster would still show whstever it was when I turned the key to on.
So if anyone can please help understand the fuel pump and tell me If Its possible to make it work please let me know.
I have a 2009 rzr s 800 with the motor transmission diffs wiring from a
2013. It was done by the previous owner and he did an OK job.
One of the thing that he didnt do correctly was the fuel pump. He kept the fuel pump from the 2009 and at some point he removed the regulator and
Put another pump as a replacement at its place.
Anyway a couple days ago I found with the help of some
Really good members here that the fuel pump was pulling way too much voltage. I decided that at the same time I should by a new pump assembly but since I have the tank from the 2009 I bought the adsembly from a 2009.
I got it today. I was super happy and decided to install it. The bike started right away but it was running really bad. No power but no code. I then decided for fun to try my old pump. Yes it pulled a lot of voltage but I just wanted to make sure that thr new used pump assembly that I got had a bad pump. Indeed after putting the old pump in the assembly the bike stsrted and it ran perfect. Great power and all. I will order a new pump tomorrow morning from a 1993 wrangler 2.5l. If anyone has another pump thst I could check the price on and that you know works let me know.
Now my real issue is that the 2013 pump has 4 wire and the 2009 has 3. The gas gauge does work In the cluster but its backward. It shows empty when its full and full when its empty.
When I have the assembly in my hand it shows a red wire and a black wire that goes to the lever so does anyone know what I can do to make it work?
Also when I had it in my hand and played with the lever with the fuel pump fuse removed. It didnt seem to work too good. When I played sith the lever the cluster would still show whstever it was when I turned the key to on.
So if anyone can please help understand the fuel pump and tell me If Its possible to make it work please let me know.
I didnt know about bench priming before I put it back on. I was told to get someone to pump the pedal and cover one hole at a time on the mc. It worked for the rear but I cant get the front to prime. Went and got a vacuum pump and pumped for an hour no luck. I need to get it going today but I aint paying the local stealer what they want for one.
I didnt know about bench priming before I put it back on. I was told to get someone to pump the pedal and cover one hole at a time on the mc. It worked for the rear but I cant get the front to prime. Went and got a vacuum pump and pumped for an hour no luck. I need to get it going today but I aint paying the local stealer what they want for one.
Just bought our first SxS, a ’09 RZR 800S; selling the quads. Picked up a low hour "S" model with some great options. I’m obvioulsly new to the RZR world, but this one seems to have some upgraded suspension. My buddy thinks it’s a factory Polaris long travel. It has Fox Podium shocks and has a 65" front end width. I can’t find any identification marks on the parts, but maybe soembody can help by the pics. Now one problem it has is no speedometer; dealer caused. The previous owner had the belt and all fluids changed right before I bought. I’ve troubleshot the problem to a bad female connector on the speed sensor. Just have to find one now! But, to say the least, we’re enjoying it and looking for another SxS since we’re a family a four; maybe a XP!
At certain rpms I have some really annoying vibration noises from my exhaust. I’ve replaced all the spring and rubber mounts, they seem tight and secure. I even added a small rubber isolator to the midpipe pad that meets the frame.
The exhaust heat shields seem tight but is it OK to just remove them?
This is driving me nuts, we had it at the lake last weekend and it was embarrassing.
