Well got done swapping my 900xp shocks on the rear yestersay and havent rode it since I got motor back from alba back in the spring. Decided to put few trail miles on it to see how it did. Ran great. Not sure on difference in power since A) its been so long since I rode it
B) only got one ride out it before motor issues
C) im running 34s and never get out of low or above 10mp
Everything was going great. Had fun. Was on top of the world. Then boom boom pow. Front diff popped in agony and no more 4×4 in forward…only reverse. Then…reverse chain said screw you too. Screamed the same song of defeat and no more reverse. Maybe the 603 has more power than I know?
Currently waiting on a call back from turner for double chain and gear reduction.
The saga continues….
So I took the RZR out yesterday for a trial run with the new Bandits and some experimenting. I decided that the front sway bar had to go. I ordered new top shock mount bolts to replace the longer bottom bolts that were left with a void from the sway bars being removed. The dealer I ordered the new bolts from got the wrong bolts (the longer bottom bolts). I reordered the correct bolts but they won’t even be shipped until Tuesday.
Well, I opted to take off the highlifter lift off the front since I didn’t have the right parts yet to finish the job. When I got to changing the rear shocks out, I was curious what the real difference would be from front to rear if I left the rear lift on while the front lift was off. Side note: all 4 shocks are set at the shipped preload with the only adjustment was clicking the adjustment all the way to soft and then hard 2 clicks. Apparently, the only difference was about 1.25 inches higher in the rear and 1/2 inch difference in width. Barely noticeable considering that for my last ride before the shock change, I had increased rear tire pressure to 10psi vs the normal 6-8psi I normally run in them. I let out some air from the rear tires to 7 psi and now difference is only slightly over an inch in clearance front and back.
Still curious with this setup, I loaded it into my truck and headed to the trail just off my parent’s property. There’s a decent variety of terrain in the 20 mile loop I took; sandy washouts, steep-ish (now soggy from rains) climbs, a few lava flow rocky areas, tight corners, off canter ruts and long straits with some whoopty speed bumpy things here and there.
First impression of the shocks was fan-freakin-tastic. Seemed to already feel like a great balance of comfort and control already without other adjustment. Lack of front sway actually inspired a bit more confidence. Of canter ruts especially at low speed didn’t give any tippy indications that I could feel. I even tried to simulate the angle of approach that put me on my side over a year ago. Wheels stayed planted.
Now to the different geometry from having just the rear lift on. I never liked that the rear of the RZR didn’t have quite the clearance of the front. Just didn’t make since except to lower center of gravity. Having the tail up a bit reminded me of driving a little truck without the ass-end bouncing everywhere. Almost felt as if some of the body weight was pushed forward instead of feeling like the back end was an anchor. Suffice it to say, I didn’t feel anything adverse from it. I am going to try it out again with front lift once the parts are in next weekend.
I know Polaris says that if you adjust preload to your shocks that you should have all 4 shocks set at sane preload. Anyone out there have any information or first hand knowledge on anything adverse with running with about an inch more clearance in the back from a lift that is only installed on the back suspension?
Hello all,
Our new 570 LE is blowing headlight fuses. Two in the first three weeks of ownership.
Stock other than a Polaris 3500 winch and a street legal kit.
Our traded in atv, a 2012 550 X2 Sportsman, also blew headlight fuses. I am two for two on Polaris products blowing headlight fuses.
I lived with it on my atv.
Anyone else have this issue?
Yes my RZR is under warranty. Yes it will go in for service (when my snowplow comes in).
But we know electrical gremlins can be a bitch.
Thoughts?
Well, for those that havent seen my other thread, I just bought a 2015 570 with 225 miles on the clock and 26" bighorns and a roof as the only real mods. Today I got to take it on its first real ride aside from around the neighborhood.
This thing is awesome! 😀 I wasnt sure how the stability of the 50" machine would be, but the wife and I felt very stable on any hill we were on. A lot of the trails were tight woods trails that a 60" machine would fit on, but I felt like the 50" was less of a handful to drive since it doesnt take as much room. I was riding with my in-laws in their new Wildcat Trail(first time out for it as well), and a buddy in his Wildcat X. The X was pretty tight on some of the trails and there were a couple turns where he had to back up to make them that the 570 and the trail could cut tight enough to clear without backing up. There are definitely advantages to the larger machines, but the tight wooded trails really allowed the 50" machines to shine. There were many hills today that I would not have attempted had I been on my old 2 up atv. I went up those same hills with total confidence in the 570 and never felt like I had any need to worry. We climbed some pretty nasty rocky and rutted and muddy hills with no trouble. The 570 ran smooth and quiet all day and the couple times I needed 4wd it worked excellent. I really like how quiet the engine is on this machine. Its very smooth and its easy to talk while riding as long as you arent running it real hard. Power was great and always on tap. The clutching felt good to me. It engaged smoothly and the engine and clutch were very responsive. If you needed some snap to climb a quick hill or get through a rut, the throttle response was near instant. Suspension felt good, although I did bottom out in some ruts a couple times, but nothing serious. It was much smoother than my ATVs have been. The brakes felt great as well. Anytime I needed to lock up the wheels, it wasnt an issue. Comfort was good too. Im a big guy and didnt feel cramped or uncomfortable. The only thing I really dont like that well are the nets. Id rather have doors, but that may be a future mod.
I know im long winded here, but Im just pretty happy that I like this so well. Been wanting one for a long time but ive never spent any time in one so its been a new experience for me. I can speak for how the reliability will be yet, but I can say that I wished I had bought one sooner 😀
I got a good deal on a rzr that was a theft recovery. I guess who ever took it buried it in the mud. So it had clutch problems I went to go take it off today with a 3/4 16 thread pitch bolt and another section of metal to push it off as I read or saw somewhere that someone else did that. (Yep I am ready for the backlash on this, shouldnt of done it, but there isnt a dealer close to me, or that was open at the time I was doing today. So i thought i would give it a shot.. I know big mistake.) Anyway I got the primary clutch off sorta. The backside of the clutch is still on. And when I try to pull the clutch with the homemade puller it just spins and I cant find a way to keep the back part from spinning while the front is not attached. Not sure why the front of the clutch came off, might have something to do with the problem with the clutch one of the bearing in it was cracked in two pretty much. I have pictures of the situation any help would be welcome. Naturally I am trying to get the rest of the clutch off so I can get the rzr moving again.
Hey everyone, with the bad news about my motor my short term project is turning into longer term lol. So with that being said time for other upgrades. Has anyone put in the gusset kit from racer tech? Just trying to address some weak spots, and upgrade while It is down. Any other suggestions welcome thanks.
Just replaced primary bearing my question is when at idle is it normal for the secondary to turn sometimes what I mean is its stationary then will turn then stop then turn then stop and so on and so on is this normal?
Hi guys. Me with my bird brain messed up once again. The last time I changed out the lube from the rear transmission of my 570RZR, I over tightened the fill plug. Upon changing the lube once again, I could not loosen the fill plug. I ended up wallowing out the allen wrench connection trying to break the plug loose. I did take a chisel, cut a grove in the plugs face and broke it loose. At any rate it ruined the plug. I went to my local Polaris dealer to buy a new one.
I was shocked went the parts salesman said a new plug cost $25.99. I asked the salesman how Polaris could ask that amount of money for a plug. I could see the embarrassment in his face when he said "I don’t know". I had intended to also replace the drain plug which has a magnet in the center. The salesman said that plug even cost more. I said that’s ok I will just buy the fill plug.
To make the story short, I went to install the new plug and found out that he had sold me the wrong plug. Its smaller in diameter. It is probably the front on demand fill plug. For sure I will use a torque wrench and tighten the new plug to the 14 to 18psi specs.
It worked out ok cause I checked on line for a straight no tapper 18mmx1.50 pitch plug with O ring. Price $3.99 plus shipping change. I decided to pay a little bit more and order the plug with the magnet in the center. Can’t hurt.
For the life of me I cannot understand the reason to ask such outrageous prices for the original Polaris parts. For that matter I cannot understand the reason for the high cost of a new buggy.
I am old now and this will be my last buggy. But I am glad I bought it as I am very proud of it.
Hi guys. Me with my bird brain messed up once again. The last time I changed out the lube from the rear transmission of my 570RZR, I over tightened the fill plug. Upon changing the lube once again, I could not loosen the fill plug. I ended up wallowing out the allen wrench connection trying to break the plug loose. I did take a chisel, cut a grove in the plugs face and broke it loose. At any rate it ruined the plug. I went to my local Polaris dealer to buy a new one.
I was shocked went the parts salesman said a new plug cost $25.99. I asked the salesman how Polaris could ask that amount of money for a plug. I could see the embarrassment in his face when he said "I don’t know". I had intended to also replace the drain plug which has a magnet in the center. The salesman said that plug even cost more. I said that’s ok I will just buy the fill plug.
To make the story short, I went to install the new plug and found out that he had sold me the wrong plug. Its smaller in diameter. It is probably the front on demand fill plug. For sure I will use a torque wrench and tighten the new plug to the 14 to 18psi specs.
It worked out ok cause I checked on line for a straight no tapper 18mmx1.50 pitch plug with O ring. Price $3.99 plus shipping change. I decided to pay a little bit more and order the plug with the magnet in the center. Can’t hurt.
For the life of me I cannot understand the reason to ask such outrageous prices for the original Polaris parts. For that matter I cannot understand the reason for the high cost of a new buggy.
I am old now and this will be my last buggy. But I am glad I bought it as I am very proud of it.
