So I’ve started experimenting with sway bar strut removal! To do this you need to add a spacer where the sway bar was removed near the hub. You could also use a shorter bolt, but that would make it more difficult to put the bar back on in the field if you decided conditions warranted it. I think it’s better to do just one side, that way the strut on the other side holds the torsion bar up and out of the way.
What I found was that the front end jolt does indeed soften on impact of a bump and there is less side rolling of the machine when going over a boulder. The machine also tends to have more front end dive on the outside when turning a corner. I imagine one is more likely to scrape bottom with sway bar deactivated, but for technical boulder crawling the increased articulation is advantageous. Here is a pic of the spacer in place:
Torque Spec Anyone?
I am putting on my RacerTech receiver plate today, and I would like to know the torque spec for my rear lower & upper A arm bolts/nuts. As thats how this receiver plate is attached.
Might be the same torque values as for the front forward A arms several have mounted?
I can go by feel but I sure would like a number as this is a pivot point.
Anyone???
Looking at buying a windshield here shortly. Looking to see what everyone is running, how they like it, and how it attatches. Post pics if you can. I am looking at the emp hard coated one. But the pic on the ad shows it clamps on the top in the middle. And it will interfere with my rear view mirror. Also plan on putting a brace in the front also to make it a little safer.
I’m preparing some basic stuff for ROTR. I want to be able to replace my drive belt if it shreds, so I’ve bought a replacement belt and will be bringing a 3/8" socket with extension for the belt cover. I understand that in some cases it is necessary to remove the outer clutch pulley to remove shredded strands and would like to know what size socket to use for that nut. I read somewhere that it is 1/2" but can anyone confirm that? (Don’t want to pull the cover just to find out)
I’m preparing some basic stuff for ROTR. I want to be able to replace my drive belt if it shreds, so I’ve bought a replacement belt and will be bringing a 3/8" socket with extension for the belt cover. I understand that in some cases it is necessary to remove the outer clutch pulley to remove shredded strands and would like to know what size socket to use for that nut. I read somewhere that it is 1/2" but can anyone confirm that? (Don’t want to pull the cover just to find out)
picking up my 570 tomorrow and getting my parts order ready to place on Monday.
first order of business has to be ground clearance for my rocky terrain. at least 2" lift and the largest wheel/tire combo I can use
I will probably go with Maxxis big horns in the largest size that won’t kill the power and require crazy amounts of lift.
I would like to keep the machine as close to 50" as I can. I’m also considering running the same size all around so that I could carry a spare that would fit front or rear…don’t know if that’s necessary or not?
if I stay 12" wheels I can go with 27" tires all around, if I want 28" with the big horns, then I have to jump up to 14" wheels, but could run 28×10’s all around?
Yesterday I received the Ryfab folding vented windshield, aluminum roof, and solid rear window. The roof is specifically designed to be used with their window, so you probably would not buy this product if you wanted a roof alone — the front attachment is done with a big t-bolt knobs. Everything they make is very heavy duty and well engineered. The installation instructions are abysmal. If you’ve ever had instructions from Hong Kong drive you crazy, just try to read Ryfab’s from Utah.
Yesterday I received the Ryfab folding vented windshield, aluminum roof, and solid rear window. The roof is specifically designed to be used with their window, so you probably would not buy this product if you wanted a roof alone — the front attachment is done with a big t-bolt knobs. Everything they make is very heavy duty and well engineered. The installation instructions are abysmal. If you’ve ever had instructions from Hong Kong drive you crazy, just try to read Ryfab’s from Utah.
I’m not up to date on the atv tuning electronics etc. I made a call to comp turbo recommendation on a turbo they can’t custom build me one that small, so they recommended a Garrett Gt1241 internally wastegated unit. What’s out there for tuning electronics I would need some thing with a map sensor to change the timing and fuel curve. Basic boost For every 1psi of boost add 1lbs of fuel and pull 1 degree of timing.
I’m just trying to figure out what I’m going to have in boost vs high compression NA motor.
Thanks in advance
