So my last trip out was this new years out in oceano dunes. I noticed the engine was consuming a large amount of oil. Used about a liter of oil in about a hour of ride time. Took it to the dealer and they just got back to me that it does have low compression. right is 140 lbs and left is 125 lbs. Spec is 225. My machine has crazy low hours on it for having the rings fail. 92hrs at 2200 miles. Has anyone else had this issue with a nearly brand new rzr? Im wondering if this is common or if I should rebuild the top end with aftermarket everything. I replace the oem filter after every trip, until recently. I bought a UNI oiled reusable filter. Seemed to be doing pretty good about keeping the dust/sand out. I change my oil with factory polaris rzr oil after every two trips. Ive heard the factory oil is crap but was using in case something castasraphic happened. Like fried rings..

I guess Im hoping Todd will Chime into the thread. I was reading about the 2016 clutch problems and the square pucks on the secondary.

Todd and others were explaining weight and what it dose.

So in a list below what dose each change in the clutch actually do? Lets say the Dalton clutch.

The Primary Spring
The weight inserted in the tail of the weights.
The rivits on the tips.

The secondary spring.
The Helix.

Example. Some say the Helix is only for changing the engine braking.
Example. Primary spring changes belt squeeze.or tension.

I understand what some of the parts do. Just want someone to explain each part and what they do when you change them exactly. one mystery to me is the Tip weight vs tail weight. what will it do exactly when you change it vs tail weight.

First I would just like to say thanks in advance for any help that I might recieve. I dug through the Internet for two days and couldn’t find anything on this matter. So here’s the story. My bike was in a mud hole with water just up to the fender on the right side and the bike died. I fired it right back up with no problem and ran another two hours. This past weekend I rode again and as soon as I left the truck it died at a low rpm. The bike then seemed to "hunt" for idle. It would move around about 50 to 100 rpm’s during this event. It is throwing the 520344 with a 17 under it. That means adaptive fuel correction and the 17 means it is low. What part do I throw at this thing. I changed the voltage regulator out last weekend and it ran fine. I think it is the O2 sensor. The map sensor looked clean. Any thought? Thanks in advance!

I was wondering if anybody has used different bearing other than what the code on crank and case pull up. I’ve heard mixed reviews on it and just thought I’d ask here. Mine are crank GGBBB case 222211 and if I’m reading the manual rite it should be green green blue blue blue blue

Hello

My rzr 1000 – 2014
starts idle when i stop accelerate it.

Also i cant start it up and keep it, i should accelerate i little to stay on.

It shows me in the gauge: Error Code 105 and 3 in the bottom.

Can you please guys tell me how to fix it.

does anyone know the engine trans bolt torque specs? there are 6 bolts please help

Does anyone else use this stuff? I started using it back in 08 on my 800. 3500 miles & no issues. I been using it on my 15 1K. Primary & secondary.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Im looking to make my 1000 sound a little better and shed some weight.

Thoughts on the Vent racing Aero Muffler or the Big Gun single ?

I like that the Big Gun looks small and much lighter.

I realize neither will add much if any power but Id like a better sound.

I searched and couldnt find anything.

After an hour opening boxes I found some that fit great.

I needed longer to relocate my coil but they are great 8mm replacements as well for a bad one.

Im only posting so that if anyone searches in the future they will find it.

NAPA Part # 700054

These actually fit the head and seal better than stock. They are 8mm as well.
They also fit the coil perfectly.

On the end right at the Spark plug connection there is a larger bump in the rubber boot that needs to be trimmed down in diameter with a razor blade.
Thats it.
2 min and they fit and function perfectly.

That part # is a set of 4 for a 4 cylinder car.

I used the 2 longer ones but the 2 shorter ones are almost an exact copy of the factory length.

Here is a link. You can see in the pic right at the end there is a larger area that needs to be trimmed down a bit with a blade.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca…054_0158464609

They fit a 2004 Ford Focus and a ton of other Fords with the 2.0 4 cylinder motor so finding them about anywhere should be super easy.

I recently have noticed that my fuel level on the gauge is showing about 5/8ths when full. It appears to operate normally once the full level reaches that point and towards empty. From what I have been told the level sensor and fuel pump is one unit.

Is there a way to repair the level sensor wo replacing the hole unit?

Is there an after market replacement unit available?

Thanks for your input !