Wanting to put a Borla muffler on my 14′, But wanted to see whats the best one to run.

I have seen People using the XR-1 but they have a few different versions.

Anything else i should know about when doing this swap?

Hello
I have never used a forum so not sure what to expect
I have a 2015 XP 1000
Has less than 48 hrs
motor mounts broke while driving had to replace engine cases.
got the vehicle back, took it out, was driving for less than 30 min and the oil pump failed and now that motor is dead
Has anyone else experienced this?

please help ! i have the clutch allignment tool, how do i adjust spacing with it? is there play somewhere or do i add spacers? i read all the posts on this but no one talks about exactly where the play that you adjust out is.

anybody try or know if the rear aluminum clutch cover of the turbo xp1000 will bolt on the non turbo xp1000. i know of myself and others with xp1000s when breaking belts have damaged the rear plastic cases. I would like to try to replace with the aluminum rear turbo one if possible, i am sure would be much more durable and sturdy then the rear plastic one.

i have a 2014 rzr xp 1000. my reverse chain snapped, cracked right and left side side case, can i swap in a highlighter trans, part number (1333365) ? and if so do i have to modify anything?

Does anyone offer a head gasket that would raise my compresion .5 point or so?

I kept throwing this code the last few times i have rode. 520344 with 17 on bottom. I cant find a lot of information about this. My rzr is a 15 1k. Everything goes fine for a while and then it starts to stumble under 3500 rpm. Eventually it will will stall out when I come to a stop. I also noticed this last weekend when I come to a stop and need to shift sometime the idle would be up to 2000 and I would have to pop the throttle to get it fall down so I could shift. It was also bucking while holding the brakes at a stop. Kinda like an automatic car with a big cam. Anything over 4000 rpm and it runs fine, the code eventually clears out. I idled the bike in my garage yesterday for over 20 minutes and varied the throttle and everything seemed to be fine. I have checked the injector wires, 02 wires and any other electrical I could get to with the motor being hot.

Any help would be great. Im trying to avoided having the dealer charge me an arm and a leg for something I can fix. Im just having trouble tracking the problem.

The things i think it could possibly be:
1. Crank Sensor
2. Jumped Timing

I have a 2015 XP 4 1000 that has had the cam chain rattle soon after I bought it. Tonight I installed a Weller Racing tensioner. I gotta say, it was a bitch. As soon as I moved the primary to get it to TDC it immediately jumped time. Things really fell apart when I removed the stock tensioner to get some slack to move the cam. I totally wish I had just pulled out the old one and swapped in the new one, instead of doing it the "right way".

What has been other guy’s experiences installing new tensioners? Did you have any issues rolling the engine over, or was it a piece of cake?

If you are planning on installing one in your car the one bit of advice I can give you is to make yourself a cam alignment tool. If your engine jumps time, you will need it. There is a slot in the PTO end of each camshaft (side opposite of the cam chain). A 6.5" long, 4mm thick piece of flat stock will fit perfectly into those slots and will keep the cams in perfect alignment while you install the tensioner. Once I discovered that little gem, it saved me a ton of time. I found it while reading the service manual I downloaded from this site (page 156, 3.80) Thank You very much to whomever posted that!!! I only wish I had read it before I started…

On the plus side, the rattle is now gone. After rolling the engine over by hand about 6 times to verify that it was back in time and that the cam chain was seated correctly, the engine started and ran perfectly. The Weller Racing tensioner works as advertised.

Chumley

My 2015 rzr has 1700 miles on it and fires right up no problem. But when the engines cold it seems to idle rough and will cut off if I don’t hold a little throttle to it. Once the engine gets to running temperature it will sit and idle just fine.. Any ideas what it could be?

Thanks!

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hi! I’ve got a question for you. I wanna make sure that I’m reading this right and installing the right bearings where they need to be. Here are the numbers from the items in question.

Crankcase Numbers: 322212
Crankshaft Numbers: BGGGGG
Rod Serial Numbers: 2 & 2

So the way i’m reading the service manual, for the main bearings, i’m going to use the numbers 3222 off the crank case and the letters BGGG off the crankshaft. That i receive a result is Green,Green, Green, Green.
For for i receive is Green, Green
Is is right combination?