I have access to a 96 big bear 4wd that is blown up and considered junk. They say the 4wd worked fine. My new to me 2001 Big Bear 400 is only 2wd. Looking at it I see mounts for the front diff and caps where the hubs would receive the axles. Do these parts interchange? Can it really be that easy? The transfer appears to bolt on where the u joint is for the current driveshaft and I assume there is a shorter driveshaft on the 4wd to make up the difference in length? My apologies for all of the questions but I am farmer that uses my machines for daily chores in all sorts of bad conditions and 4wd would be very nice if not necessity at times.

I have access to a 96 big bear 4wd that is blown up and considered junk. They say the 4wd worked fine. My new to me 2001 Big Bear 400 is only 2wd. Looking at it I see mounts for the front diff and caps where the hubs would receive the axles. Do these parts interchange? Can it really be that easy? The transfer appears to bolt on where the u joint is for the current driveshaft and I assume there is a shorter driveshaft on the 4wd to make up the difference in length? My apologies for all of the questions but I am farmer that uses my machines for daily chores in all sorts of bad conditions and 4wd would be very nice if not necessity at times.

I recently took out my newly bought 05 Big Bear out on the trails. All was well except every now and then I would be reversing, let off the throttle, and it would still go. Almost as if I was still pushing down the throttle. Usually it stops after a couple of seconds, but I am stumped as to what might be causing this. It happens in other gears too, but is more common when I am backing up. The second thing was, the electric start did go out a couple times, and I had to use the hand starter. It was raining and I was driving through a lot of water so I am guessing some electrical connection got wet. Would applying dielectric grease solve this problem? Thanks for all your help in advance!!:peace:

I am changing the rear brakes on my 05 BB, and the nut that attaches to the wheel that has the cotter pin won’t budge. I have tried WD40 and even an impact gun. Still, nothing. What should I do? Thanks in advance

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I recently installed a new carb on my kodiak 400 and it was running great straight out of the box. I let it sit for a couple months and when I went to move it the other day it would start but immediately die once I gave it any throttle. It starts right away and idles fine but you give it any gas and it dies. Any thoughts. Would like to get some ideas before I tear the carb apart.

Quad is 2004 like 11 years old. Doubtful that the fluids were ever changed. But I wanted to see if anyone had advice on this.

So I’m going to change all the bearing on this quad. I got front wheel bearing kits for the front and wanted to do the rear bearings. The rear bearings seem like like it will be difficult to replace. Never taken out the axle, Never taken out the rear diff to be able to beat out the bearings.
Any advice would help

Quad is 2004 like 11 years old. Doubtful that the fluids were ever changed. But I wanted to see if anyone had advice on this.

So I’m going to change all the bearing on this quad. I got front wheel bearing kits for the front and wanted to do the rear bearings. The rear bearings seem like like it will be difficult to replace. Never taken out the axle, Never taken out the rear diff to be able to beat out the bearings.
Any advice would help

So the atv is working good decent machine for being older. We bought it off a guy selling it so he is like got some issues with it.
1st the starter is going. It makes nasty metal on metal noises and I haven’t pulled it off yet to see if there is damage to the teeth.
2nd and most important to me is the front brakes. When riding the atv I will use the front brakes cause the back ones are gone. But after riding for a bit the front brakes get stuck. They will not disengage so I’m riding around with the front brakes enguaged sightly the atv still runs and drives but the brakes are sticking. They get so hot the brakes start smoking you know when they are sticking cause you let off the throttle and almost come to a dead stop. They stay this way for a bit then stop sticking it happens almost every time I run it. I can tell you that both sides are sticking cause when I splashed with water both sides boiled off.
Anyone run into this problem before

Hi all. I have recently purchased a 2014 bruin 350 for my wife and would like to install a 12v outlet and heated grips.

I am trying to figure out an ignition wire source for my relay so she can’t drain the battery by accident. I installed on mY ’06 kodiak by attaching to the 12v plug and on my ninja 650 by connecting to the license plate light. The bruin in it’s simplicity doesn’t seem to have anything quite so simple.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

So the stock headlights are old and time to upgrade. Was wondering about 2 things
1. Should I install completely new heavier gauge wires with relays and fuses for the higher wattage bulbs I want to put on the quad. Stock is 12v 30w/30w I am tired of stock lights, I actually have an petzel led headlamp that runs on batteries that is brighter witch I use at night.

2. is there an upgrade for the stator/generator on the quad to charge the battery since I plan on installing better lights.

Long story short I want to upgrade the stock lights. I got 4" led lights that might just replace the headlights but I’ll have to modify the headlight housing to do this. Before I go elbow deep in this project I wanted to see the options that pop up on here.
Any info or suggestions let me know thx in advance. :peace: