My 1992 big bear’s transmission block literally lost a chunk of metal on the outside, now the quad won’t drive forward but does manage to go backwards but only one wheel turns, it also makes a very noisy rattling sound.
I found a guy who has a full engine block with a transmission and I’d like to buy it, is there tutorials somewhere on how to change it?
well my 04 bruin 350 wasn’t running. my buddy and I were about to clean the carb, but noticed there was no gas coming out of the tank. So i replaced the fuel cock and got it running, but not running good. Now not at all again. I put my hand over the air filter box and it started for a few then died. Took the filter out and was attempting to clean it, but it just came apart. Is this my problem? and if so, where can i find another filter to fit in my box?
I’ve finally got some seat time on my 1997 Kodiak. It runs pretty good after putting in a new timing chain and tensioner and getting the carb rebuilt (it was blowing black smoke/raw gas). I set the valves and a local ATV shop then did a leak down test, it was 3% or as the mechanic said excellent, compression like a new engine. All in all, the ATV is now running really good, no smoke, but it still has a metallic-like chattering noise coming from the top end, which increases the faster you go. The mechanic said it was just the age of the engine showing and the valves are chattering, but they are set right as the leak down test was good. The noise doesn’t sound like a rod knock – going 70km/hr I’d think that there’s no way to mistake a rod knocking for a metallic chattering sound.
So my question is, can I run a heaver weight oil to try and quiet down this chattering noise?
I overfilled my 2008 Big Bear with engine oil when I put new oil in. On the stick (with the dip stick just resting in the hole) the oil level shows a little above the max fill mark. I’m going riding tomorrow and don’t have time to drain it, so is there any harm in running one day like this. I assume any excess pressure will just throw oil out the breather tube.
Please.
Need advice, removed swing arm, cleaned everything and installed new boot, all parts went together normally.
now when pushing around in shop there is a metal to metal grinding sound and what seems to be an interruption ore catch in the rear diff.
Hope someone can tell me where to look for problem.
Thanks,
CR
Hey guys.. im having a custom header for my KFX450R made here next week and got to thinking about having one made for the Big Bear.. Has anybody made one before and if so was it worth it?
As for a rebuild question im getting ready to rebuild my wifes Warrior with a 10.25 piston and stage 1 cam and was gonna do the same to the big bear 400 since it smokes on start up and at higher RPM.. Figured id buy 2 of each in one shot . Iv got an extra warrior head sitting around and pondered rebuilding and running that head on the BB And but i was curious if running a stage 1 cam and 10.25:1 piston was worth it On the BB?
Its got enough torque with that low gearing as it is im just afraid of it not being reliable
Hi, I have an 05′ Kodiak 450 and would like to add a led light bar to the front rack. I plan on wiring it separate from the head lights. How many watts can the kodiak handle? Thanks
Hey guys. First off thank you all, this site has helped me a bit. So I was mudding last weekend, had just gotten out of a hole and I heard a pop noise and it sounded as if to bog down and would barely move as if the brakes were applied before finally stopping with in 5 feet of when I initially heard the pop noise. Tried reverse went back a few feet and same thing, tried fwd again with same result. Shut it off and the rear tires would not roll fwd but would roll backwards. So my buddy towed me going backward for almost a mile and then we heard a bunch of metal grinding(sounded like a bunch of nuts rolling around in a can) and then the rear wheels locked up. Would not roll fwd or back. Had to go get a trailer and pick it up to load it on. Got back home and was able to push it off the trailer after nudging it fwd and backward a bunch of times. Then I started it up and it drove around the house no more than 40 yards Id say. Started it up today to pull it around to replace the front brakes and same thing happened as on the trail. No pop or noises. Just seems as thought brakes are applied and it bogs down. Motor revs up just fine. I checked the belt, belt is fine and within specs. This happens in reverse and high/low range without 4×4 engaged. I tried 4×4 and same thing happens. With the engine off, and it in neutral I put my ear near the transmission where the main drive shaft comes out to go back to the rear diff it sounds like clicking noises? Any ideas? I can barely afford parts so I’m trying to figure out how to best diagnose this thing without tearing apart stuff I don’t need to? What do I have to do to get into that part of the thing to see what this noise is about? Thanks for any suggestions.
