I’m trying to get a better understanding how the carb works on my 660. Are there diagrams or videos? I want to understand why my carb only leaks when I turn my fuel on after storage. When I start the grizz it stops and won’t leak anymore. After I’m done I always run gas out of carb.

I’m trying to get a better understanding how the carb works on my 660. Are there diagrams or videos? I want to understand why my carb only leaks when I turn my fuel on after storage. When I start the grizz it stops and won’t leak anymore. After I’m done I always run gas out of carb.

I have a 07 450 grizzly that I bought new . and the issue that I’m having is when I’m running the machine open. It starts to spit and sputter around 45-50mph. Almost like a limiter. But I never have had this issue before. Could it be belt wear, clutch wear?? Any ideas out there?

Hi all,

Is it known if the 2015 or earlier oil filters are OK for the ’16 grizzly 700?

I’m planning on stocking up on some filters but don’t want to buy the Yamaha filters if i don’t have to.

Thanks,

Scribe308

Guys,
New to the site and apologize if I’m not posting this on correct page. I just bought a used 07′ 700 and everything test drove just fine. Took it to the mtns for hunting and battery died on me. Went into town and bought a new one thinking that the original battery needed replacement. Put a new one in and ran it all day but when I turned unit off and came back to ride 5 mins later it would not start. Just clicked while trying to turn over with electric start. Got a jump from someone and started up, but check engine light and EPS stayed on. Road for another 10 mins and shut off, same issue occurred. Seems like it is not charging battery back up when in use? Is this an alternator issue or something else? And is the EPS drawing that much power out of battery to make a brand new battery go down so quickly?

Any feedback is much appreciated as I am new to ATV’s.

Thanks

I just became a member because you all give some great advise. I have read most post regarding the typical overheating of the 660.

I replaced the head gasket on mine because it was blown after my son swamped it. Just got it back together and let it idle for a while (10 minutes) and it began to overheat. I noticed the fan wasn’t coming on so I direct wired the fan it ran fine. So I jumped the thermo switch with a wire and it wouldn’t run. So I then jumped the thermo switch and the relay back at the battery. Still a no go. When I put a meter to the hot wire of the thermo switch it get 12.74 volts. Any ideas what could be wrong?

Thanks for your help.

I have a 1998 Yamaha Grizzly 600yfm, AMD recently went to running really rich. I noticed that the suction at the carburetor was not there so I check timing it appears to be about 3 to 4 teeth off. I have approx 83psi of compression, and has had some piston slap in it for a while. My question to everyone on here is with that all wrong, am thinking of doing the wiseco 635 big bore sleeve kit. Is that a good thing to do on an aircooled motor, and if I do that and have heads worked over should I put a better cam in, and what is suggested if I do? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Ok so I was having a problem with my 2014 550 going in and out of 4×4. So i cleaned some plugs and it was fine. I went to start it to put it in the garage and nothing. Turn the key and no display, cant start, no lights. Checked fuses by the battery, charge of the battery, and some connections and still nothing. Put the battery over night on trickle and still nothing. Also, my winch works fine. PLease help.

I noticed that I am beginning to have a little wobble/play in my handlebars and after I checked the pitman, tie rods, a-arms, and all bolts, I determined that the steering bearing is the culprit. I ordered the bearings from Partshark for ~8.00. When I received the parts, I was thinking no way this is going to solve my problem and went searching for an aftermarket steering bearing. That led me to the OMI Steering bearing mount from Port City Racing in MI. I liked the fact that the bearing has a grease fitting and there were many positive reviews and installation tips.
I tore into the Grizzly today and realized, this doesn’t match up to AZ or Grizz08’s experiences. The 2013 battery/front compartment does not allow straight access to the bearing bolts. I tin snipped my way to access and customized my battery box, ha. I was able to remove the bearing, brackets, and cleaned the steering stem real good. I was looking at the OMI along with the parts to be "reused for the install" and noticed, This is WAY off. Measured twice and made a phone call to Port City Racing and sure enough, the "later models" changed their bearings and what they sent me will not work for a 2013 or later Grizzly. Friendly service and I’ll send it back for a refund, however the person also stated that their website was updated which is not true…I checked it again before making this post. Thankfully I had the OEM bearings that in no way will solve my problem so I greased them up and installed them. Currently my problem is solved with the OEM, non-greasable bearings.
Long post to get here, however, the OMI Steering Bearing WILL NOT fit a 2013 Grizzly 700 or newer and currently, Port City Racing does not offer a greasable bearing for 2013 or newer.
Went back and checked the parts diagram and the change was made in 2013 to the bearing with bracket, compared to 2012 and earlier. If you have a 2007-2012, I’ll still recommend you look up Omi products if you need a steering bearing/bushing. It definitely looks/feels like a quality parts, just didn’t work for me.
Hopefully this posts will help someone and get me through the next 3,200 miles:peace:

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I’ve purchased a blue secondary spring. I’ve machined my clutch and got more bottom end, and intended to put in the spring. Question is….my machine takes a bit to wind out to top speed as is, won’t it make it tough for my primary to close all the way? And I’m guessing it would also give me improved torque in mid range?