When you install the secondary spring do you have to torque the nut that holds the spring on? If so what is the number?

Guys I’m kind of a newb in this aspect, but I’ve owned my 700 new since 07, has about 1400 miles on original everything (except tires and fluids), that included the belt too lol. But my question is, what do I do to go faster here, this is the noobiest of all questions I know, and I feel retarded for asking. Right now the machine has the Pod Mod set to -10, a power tip, and a dirty air filter lol now I know I have to absolutely change the belt, filter, and plug but what do I do to make the machine faster. I have and always will have stock 25" sized tires, so would one of these badass machined clutches from hunter works or airdam do me well? I’m sick of getting my ass dragged by other big bore atv’s!! And by faster I mean I don’t mind sacrificing a few mph in top end, but if I can get there way faster, or does when you stretch the ratio out and keeping the engine at a lower rpm work better?

Hi all, new to the forum and I have searched for an answer to my issue but have not found one. My issue is that my 2011 grizzly 700 runs and idles fine in neutral or park but as soon as I put it into gear it stalls out. Not sure if there is a fuse blown or what. Please help. Thanks

I’m curious if any one thinks a little grease should be applied to the edge of either side of the air filter keep in mind this a different design this year. The filter goes over a cage and the cage has a end cap the end cap has a foam gasket( that I assume you put nothing on)the end cap side gets pushed against a the air box squeezing the foam gasket hopefully sealing. I am curious if I should dab a little grease on the edge of both sides of the filter just to be be sure it seals. I have done this in the past on other machines but they had a much different air filter set up.

Hi. I have a 2009 Grizzly 700 which is totally standard. Over time with use I have noticed the engine braking getting stronger and stronger. It is at a point now where it is too strong for my liking. I have researched on here and have gathered that this is because my V Belt has slowly worn over time. The rear tires are half worn as well which would be contributing to it I think.

I have checked the V Belt width, it is 31mm wide and still within spec. A new belt is 33mm.

What I want to ask is if I file down the collar inside the primary sheave 2mm and leave in the current 31mm belt, will this bring the gearing and engine braking back to the same amount as when the bike was new with a 33mm wide belt?

Is this the right way to go to mod the bike and achieve what I want? I could just put on a new belt but I thought this mod would be a cheaper way to do it. When the belt wears further then I can put on a new belt and shim the collar back to standard right?

Thanks for any help.

New to the forum and Need Help, I rebuilt carb on Kodiak 400 and it bogs down when you start to give half to full throttle. Can someone help with what I did wrong.

anybody running peak 50/50 long life coolent an is it necessary to use distiled water when mixing the coolent

Hi guys. I have a 2000 yamaha kodiak 400 4×4 that won’t start. As soon as I try to start it the temp light comes on. And the atv has not been riding in a couple days. Does anyone know how to fix it. I appreciate your help thank you.

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Hi guys. I have a 2000 yamaha kodiak 400 4×4 that won’t start. As soon as I try to start it the temp light comes on. And the atv has not been riding in a couple days. Does anyone know how to fix it. I appreciate your help thank you.

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So I installed a jbs sheave with a purple spring and 15g weights and it ripped but couldn’t wheelie anymore, installed 18g’s weight and the wheelies are back. Yay. Also when I got the sheave I used belray marine grease since the yamaha stuff is pricey and was recommended by my local powersports shop…. bad idea, all the grease ended up on the sides of the sheave and none on the weights which started flat spotting, so when the 18g’s I went with the yamaha ultramatic.

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