When I turn the lights on, the rear red light turns on, so the bulb seems okay (unless there are multiple bulbs?)
Any ideas on what I can do and how to test? I manually pulled the switch at the foot pedal with no result either – puzzled. Thanks.
When I turn the lights on, the rear red light turns on, so the bulb seems okay (unless there are multiple bulbs?)
Any ideas on what I can do and how to test? I manually pulled the switch at the foot pedal with no result either – puzzled. Thanks.
This How To is not and end all, be all. However, I’ve performed this technique several times and it has worked out flawlessly. This technique can be applied to all years and all makes of atv/sxs (except for glass lenses). This is a lead in to many mods from mild to wild, such has HID projector retrofits or simple halos. The how to is missing the reassembly, which I will add when I go to put the headlights back together. So to the meat and taters!
Tools: grizzly lights, cookie sheet, tin foil, small block off wood, various flat head screwdrivers, pliers, oven 😀 and GLOVES!
Attachment 21121
Step 1: Disassembly
There are several posts about how to actually remove the headlight from the grizzly. Long story short, you remove 3 screws and the headlight will slide out of the front. Anyway, you need to remove the stock bulb and all of the mounting hardware/screws. Here is a picture of a completely disassembled light.
Attachment 21122
Step 2: Heat up, 300 degrees F for 5 minutes.
Heat your oven to 300 degrees F. Get your cookie sheet and put a piece of foil down. I’m using a new set of headlights, but yours will probably be nasty and not something you want food touching the same surface. Heating up the lights does not emit any harmful noxious fumes, so no worries there. Now, place your piece of wood in the middle and place 1 light, lens up, and put it in the oven for a full 5 minutes. The hotter the sealant on the headlight gets, the easier your job will be. No, you will not melt anything. I’ve tested it all the way to 8 minutes before and it was fine. I did both at once because I’ve done this technique about 20 times, so I’m quick. I highly recommend taking your time if this is your first attempt.
Attachment 21123
Step 3: Separation and GLOVES!
Put your gloves on. DO NOT TAKE THEM OFF LOL. Your headlight will be hot as hell and it will burn sensitive skin. That is your only warning haha. When the timer goes ding, pull out your light and set it at your work area. Starting with your thinnest blade screwdriver, wedge it between the lens and housing next to one of the clips, as pictured below. Once you get the first clip out, move to the next. There are 4 total. Be very careful when you pry on the plastics directly above the clip. While the light is hot, the plastic will bend, when the light starts to cool it will snap like a twig when you pry. I’ve done it, and odds are high you might to. But it’s ok, you have 3 more that will work fine.
Attachment 21124
All separated!
Attachment 21125
Step 5: Remove most of the old sealant
If your housing is still warm, go ahead and take one of your screwdrivers and start scooping out the old sealant. It doesn’t have to be perfect. But get at least 80% out. Your goal is to have a space big enough for the new sealant to fill in. The picture below shows a housing half "clean" from top middle going right and an untouched portion from top middle going left.
Attachment 21126
If the lens cools down before you start the above step or removing the sealant starts getting super difficult, pop the housing back in the oven for 2 minutes. That’s enough time to soften it up and removal much easier.
Attachment 21127
Here is a completely separated pair and the ball of removed sealant. All in all it took me about 30 minutes to do both.
Attachment 21128
At this point you can go on with your chosen modification. Here are a couple of pics of something I did last year. Im working on something that’s a little more reliable this time around.
Attachment 21129
Attachment 21130
Step 6: Adding new sealant and reassembly
I will add details about Step 6 when I get to that point 🙂
Feel free to ask any questions. Hopefully this will help someone in the future.
I have a Yamaha Grizzly Camo 700 2010 model.I bought it in summer 2011 and has always been a perfect ride,until last May.
Last May I went drove to the gas station to fill up the tank.Then when I tried to start,nothing.No crank,no sound,just dead.
I towed my baby to my house and I start check the battery and other things,but everything was fine.
Main problem I have is that I live in the Arctic,north of Canada,were the esquimos or Inuit ( I’m from Spain lol) and here is no services,no garage,very bad internet…not even roads,everything come and goes by plain.
Well,making a research and calling different shops and a Yamaha dealer and shop,and buying the service manual,I found out that code 12 is related to the crankshaft position sensor,knowing that what I did until today is:
-change stator and sensor.
-change battery.
-change voltage regulator.
-change motor starter.(was broken)
-waiting for a new ECU
-check all fuses,relays and solenoid.
-Check voltage everywhere possible.
-check wire harness.
Everything looks fine,but still not working.
In diagnostic mode there is no errors,the only thing is a number 12 in the pod,that’s it.
Has been almost 5 month with no answer to my problem,and I’m loosing my hope.
Is there someone with just a small clue? something maybe that I’m forgetting?
Thank you very much.
P.S.: sorry for my english,I do try my best.
