Hey all,

With the announcement of the Turbo I’m thinking it’s time to at least replace my 900. I have a ton of $$$$ into the 900, and somebody will get a good deal but the Turbo is just too tempting with all the improvements.

Originally my 900 was going to be my "crawler" and my 1000 was going to be my "duner". So, if I get the Turbo that would make the 1000 the "crawler". I’d want to do 32"s on the 1000 if that is the case. However, with the better clutching, gear-driven reverse, better front driveshaft design etc. the Turbo seems like a better candidate for a crawler.

So, do I sell them both and pick up 2 Turbos, one to be my duner and one for the dirt/rocks? That’s a ton of $ and I worry I won’t get much out of my 1000 with the Turbo on the market.

Do all the parts swap over? Could I put my cage, seats, harnesses, Polaris Interactive Display, etc. off of the 1000 right onto one of the Turbos?

Or do I just keep the 1000 and build it into the dirt/rock buggy? It has plenty of power for that application, I don’t think I "need" the turbo, but the rest of the upgrade driveline parts on the Turbo are tempting for this application.

My 900 (read/scroll through thread to get a better idea of current build): http://www.rzrforums.net/rock-crawli…mods-done.html

My 1000 (again, skim through to see full build): http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-xp-1000…eat-build.html

-TJ

PS- both RZRs are for sale… as-is or without some of the parts, PM me if interested

I just got my rear diff put back together from re doing the pinion nut and after the first test ride of about 45 to 50 mph on pavement for about 10 min and another 5 min at 25 mph in about 75 degree outside temperature I tested my rear diff with a IR Gage and got Temps from 95 to 103. I have nothing to compare these numbers 2 and was wondering if anyone has taken any temp readings of their diffs. Thnx for any input on this subject.

I just got my inspection done and awaiting the actual plates.. anyone have any experience on WA streets? what about within a heavier populated area.. any tickets as of yet? Seems the law was written to have a big open discretion within each individual police officer…

Hello guys looking for a good dealer in the NY area. I have contacted three dealers about the 2016’s but all of them don’t know when they are getting any in or when they could even order any. So any help with a good dealer would help.

Hey RZR Gang,

We know the lights’ market is crowded, but we are happy to announce a serious SIRIUS PRO price reduction. (Stupid pun, I know.)

All our reports are that SIRIUS PRO that performed as well in the field RIGID and Laser X. And now we have pricing that gets close to some of the cheap crap that’s out there….while retaining all the quality.

Basically, these are the real freakin’ deal…..and I don’t say that lightly. We have a SIRIUS Standard series that is solid, but the SIRIUS PRO really is jaw-dropping. Do a forums search and you’ll see guys saying the same thing. Just need to get the word out.

PRICING (MSRP)
Remember, you can get a forum discount and shipping is FREE.

1. 6" SIRIUS PRO: $109.99
2. 10" SIRIUS PRO: $149.99
3. 20" SIRIUS PRO: $199.99
4. 30" SIRIUS PRO: $299.99
5. 40" SIRIUS PRO: $349.99
6. 50" SIRIUS PRO: $399.99

FEATURES
1. Includes waterproof Deutsch wiring and connections.
2. IP69 rated.
3. Passes US Military 810-STD for durability.
4. Stainless steel hardware and UV-resistant paint.
5. All sorts of optional covers, lenses, etc.

VIDEO
See the video link for further features:

Shoot me a PM or give us a call if you need some. Our current inventory is a bit limited while we ramp up production for the fall.

Polaris better hope the new Yamaha isn’t more than 130 hp, naturally aspirated and a few thousand less or they are in trouble. Something tells me Yamaha knew about this turbo upgrade. If Yamaha has close to the hp and under sells them…..not good. I’m waiting on yamaha , Polaris, your price is ridiculous.

Okay so here’s the deal summed up shortly.

I was driving my friends rzr with him. He drove it for about 20 minutes and we went decent but not to hard. I then drove straight down a road got going pretty fast about 50-60. Slowed down for a turn then started going about 30-40 had a slight fishtail going so slowed down then after about 30 yards after the turn the bead on the front drivers tire popped we believe the wheel dug in the dirt and we rolled it instantly and and I believe it rolled one full roll and landed on the side. No one was hurt just a scraped arm. But the issue I’m wondering is why would that bead of popped. His dad essentially wants me to buy a new rzr and is adamant I was driving it like I stole it. I truly wasn’t its was only my second time ever driving it so I only was going straight no jumps or hard turns. And as I said we were no further then 30 yards from the turn. I let off the gas and coasted it Down to fix it. We didn’t even turn side ways and slide a second we just dug in and then instant role.

Was there something that would cause a bead to pop? Any other input

Getting a pack together for my new ride. What are your must have items? I’m thinking tools, plug kit, maybe a first aid kit? Also if you get a flat tire, how do you air it back up? Small on board compressor? Or maybe a bicycle type pump? All ideas welcome. -Mike :popcorn:

I just got a 2015 900 trail rzr. It looks like it has a plastic skid plate on it. Is that any good or should it be replaced? Rockymoutain has one with the Tusk brand, but it’s around 400.00. The Polaris is about 600.00.

After seeing some of the horror stories I am considering getting maybe a 2 year plan (actual is 1.5 years because it starts on date of purchase and comes with 6 month).
I had a 2010 RZR S and put almost 6000 miles (mostly dune) with little or no problems. I did not have the extended warranty on it.
So before even considering this I would like to here from other’s experience, whether good bad or neutral.

The letter was from Polaris and the web site is Protect My Polasris .

Here is what the claim to cover:
Full Terms attached
————————————————————————————–
OFF-ROAD VEHICLES
PLAN SELECTION COMPONENT GROUPS
POLARIS POWER PROTECTION 1-3
POLARIS TOTAL PROTECTION 4
1. Engine Assembly — Engine block, cases, cylinders, heads, covers and all internal engine components, seals and gaskets (when damaged by an
internally lubricated part), exhaust manifold, head pipe, water pump, oil pump, throttle body adapters, turbochargers and turbo dump valve installed

2. Transmission Assembly — Transmission case and all internal transmission components, seals and gaskets (when damaged by an internally
lubricated part); and shifter assembly (clutch friction discs, steel discs, throw-out bearing, and clutch springs are excluded).

3. Engine Management Fuel & Electrical — Carburetor, Throttle Bodies, Injectors, Fuel Rail, Fuel Pump, Stator/Alternator/Flywheel, Voltage
Regulator, Capacitor, Coils, Idle Air Control (IAC), engine ECU, Engine Wiring Harnesses, Engine management sensors that provide an input to the
ECU (excluding oxygen sensors).

4. POLARIS TOTAL PROTECTION covers all parts of the Vehicle except for the following items:
a. Parts listed under the Exclusions from Coverage Section of this Contract; and
b. Parts covered under the manufacturer’s warranty, special policy, or recalls

Attached Files

TERMS AND CONDITIONS.pdf (158.2 KB)