Hey guys, I will be pulling the trigger on a 2016 1000 XP4 very soon. I plan on keeping it stock and maybe adding a few conveniences (roof, spare tire etc). My biggest concern is reliability. I will be going on many rides with just my family and the last thing I want is to be stranded miles from camp. My question is: If you guys can weigh in on what stock parts I should get rid of ASAP for more reliable replacements (if any). I don’t mind spending money on reliability and I don’t really care about making this thing any faster. Any ideas?

Hey guys, I will be pulling the trigger on a 2016 1000 XP4 very soon. I plan on keeping it stock and maybe adding a few conveniences (roof, spare tire etc). My biggest concern is reliability. I will be going on many rides with just my family and the last thing I want is to be stranded miles from camp. My question is: If you guys can weigh in on what stock parts I should get rid of ASAP for more reliable replacements (if any). I don’t mind spending money on reliability and I don’t really care about making this thing any faster. Any ideas?

Found some AWESOME 2.5" square LED cube lights and am wiring up my brothers 2016 XP1000.

Here is a daytime sneak preview in the garage.

Just temporarily jumpered a bunch of the wires together for testing so pay no attention to that mess.

Not too bright after dark either!

1 in each wheel well and 1 in the grill. Fabricated my own mounts.

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So I blew up a front cv, which kicked the axle out, twisting it around the steering arm and bending it, at the same time as a chunk of the cv wedged inside the wheel and wore 3 holes right through the inside of the rim before I came to a stop… 😳

Needless to say it’s shopping time!

I’ve decided on a set of method 401’s for the new wheels but I need some opinions on the steering and axles. When I break something I generally research the hell out of every detail and I have a few questions now after doing some homework.

For steering I have been reading about the racertech tie rods and their claims about not corrupting oem steering geometry like most other kits out there. Does anyone know of any other solid options out there that can guarantee the same thing? I’m definitely not interested in encountering any bumpsteer issues after upgrading components.

As for axles, I think Ben from Knine has articulated the science behind necking down axle shafts after the splines and the torsion bar effect that helps reduce damage to the cv and diff quite well. If someone was looking for axles with necked down shafts and beefier cvs, where would you look? Most websites have pictures of the complete assembly which blocks the details under the boot.

Any informed input would be welcomed!

Thanks,

Max

So I blew up a front cv, which kicked the axle out, twisting it around the steering arm and bending it, at the same time as a chunk of the cv wedged inside the wheel and wore 3 holes right through the inside of the rim before I came to a stop… 😳

Needless to say it’s shopping time!

I’ve decided on a set of method 401’s for the new wheels but I need some opinions on the steering and axles. When I break something I generally research the hell out of every detail and I have a few questions now after doing some homework.

For steering I have been reading about the racertech tie rods and their claims about not corrupting oem steering geometry like most other kits out there. Does anyone know of any other solid options out there that can guarantee the same thing? I’m definitely not interested in encountering any bumpsteer issues after upgrading components.

As for axles, I think Ben from Knine has articulated the science behind necking down axle shafts after the splines and the torsion bar effect that helps reduce damage to the cv and diff quite well. If someone was looking for axles with necked down shafts and beefier cvs, where would you look? Most websites have pictures of the complete assembly which blocks the details under the boot.

Any informed input would be welcomed!

Thanks,

Max

Took my dads rzr for a 5 minuet ride tonight……. Little did I know he drained the oil for an oil change!!! Light never came on dash and I didn’t think to check the oil. It makes a clicking noise in motor! Thinking a pushrod maybe? If you know what I could have done too it and cost to fix that would be huge help! Still runs idles and everything just slight clicking nose

Took my dads rzr for a 5 minuet ride tonight……. Little did I know he drained the oil for an oil change!!! Light never came on dash and I didn’t think to check the oil. It makes a clicking noise in motor! Thinking a pushrod maybe? If you know what I could have done too it and cost to fix that would be huge help! Still runs idles and everything just slight clicking nose

Starting to get some pieces together for doing an Apex turbo in my 14, 1000. Bought a 2008 Apex full mod sled with 700 miles on it. Motor is done with JE pistons, Carrillo rods, valve springs, mild port job, 2871 turbo, etc, etc. I’m gonna tear the motor down (since it has ran as high as 23lbs of boost) and go through it, but it shouldn’t need anything. Hope this project goes smooth:rofl3::)

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“Black Rhino Performance Sponsored Athlete Katie Vernola’s WORCS Race Report”

El Cajon, CA, January 14, 2016— Round 1 of the WORCS Series took place in Taft, CA on January 9th. Black Rhino Performance sponsored athlete Katie Vernola was there for the racing action in her new #72 Polaris RZR 1000.

Read more at… https://www.blackrhinoperformance.co…s-race-report/

“Black Rhino Performance Sponsored Athlete Katie Vernola’s WORCS Race Report”

El Cajon, CA, January 14, 2016— Round 1 of the WORCS Series took place in Taft, CA on January 9th. Black Rhino Performance sponsored athlete Katie Vernola was there for the racing action in her new #72 Polaris RZR 1000.

Read more at… https://www.blackrhinoperformance.co…s-race-report/