I’m planning on building my own turbo kit for my 2012 800. I don’t plan on really pushing the limits. I’m looking for a modest increase in power. Id be happy with 55-60 wheel hp. probably run around 6-8 psi. I ordered a garret gt1544 turbo. I’m wondering, do I really need an intercooler? I have a windshield and a rear window, so I don’t see a roll cage intercooler getting much air. Plus, I use my bed so I cant really install one there. This machine is used at elevations 5,000-8,000 feet. mostly in the mountains trail riding and a few trips to the Idaho dunes a year. Can I get away with the stock injectors at 6-8 PSI with an attitude fuel controller?

Im installing a low boost packard kit on my 15 xp1k.Im having trouble with the tube that goes from the bottom of the turbo to the driver side of the intercooler.I can get it on but it kinks the 90degree coupler coming off the turbo.And if I get it positioned where its not kinked the tube hits the frame.Has anyone else had trouble with this and how did you fix it? THANKS

Nearly 2 years after first meeting the guys from Boondocker, then doing everything else I ever wanted on my XP 4 1000, it’s finally time to do the Boondocker turbo build!

The great news is that their XP 1000 turbo kit has become significantly better then that first Pre-production kit I saw at the outdoor expo in February of 2014.

They have done countless hours of testing in every environment we ride in, (and at all elevations)
They have found the weak points of the RZR, and know what power levels each weak points starts to fail. Essentially they have fine tuned the kit to a point that I feel extremely confident with their recommendations for my goals.

My goals for my RZR are simple.

I want "substantially" more power than a Polaris XP turbo makes, but I want maximum reliability. I don’t want to always be having to fix things because the manufacturer of the kit didn’t do enough testing to find the weak spots & fix them.
(Been there/Done that)

I want to run pump gas.
If I want to turn up the boost, I can add some race fuel & dial up the boost on the dial, but I don’t want to have to run race fuel all the time.

Now that they have control of the factory computer, can make custom tunes, and can reprogram timing curves, they have a "pump gas, no engine mod" turbo kit that still makes quite a bit more power than the factory Polaris XPTurbo does. However, for my build, I’m going all the way with an engine build.

I went down the options list on the Boondockers.com website and ordered the parts that should keep me reliable with the well over 200 horsepower it is going to make.

For the engine we are adding (9.5-1) JE pistons, Carrillo H-beam connecting rods, head studs, and their automatic timing chain tensioner.
(The Pistons & connecting rods are much stronger AND much lighter than the Polaris parts, so the whole rotating assembally will be balanced, the cilinder and cilinder head decked before reassembly.)

I also chose one of their HUGE upgraded radiators to keep the big 4 seater cool with over double the original horsepower.

Other upgrades include their billet throttle body adapters, Ripp-Tied Big Clutch kit, and the Garrett GTX2860 liquid cooled ball bearing turbo.

Before taking it up to the Boondocker shop I installed the Big Radiator & intercooler heat exchanger, the Wideband O-2 gauge, along with the heat shielding.

Here are some pictures.
I will post more after I get back from Boondocker shop in Idaho.

Stay tuned…

2014 1000 machine, Apex turbo. Pro and cons……….. I keep hearing that it doesn’t work but have also heard from more than one person that say they’ve ran it with the Yamaha primary and the RZR secondary and Apex belt, and it worked great. One guy dynoed 217rwhp at 11lbs of boost, which is pretty efficient. In reality, top end should be the same, just would start in a higher gear. What are the draw backs? Thanks, Dan

I have a 2011 900 XP. K and T turbo water to air, no upgrades to turbo, Low Comp pistons, valve springs and buckets.

Motor has 80 psi comp drivers, 200 psi passenger

Really happy with build 2000 plus miles, sucked a little sand I thing but now that I need to go through the whole motor.

What upgrades would be suggested?

I’m going to put a turbo Apex motor in a 2014 1000. Planning on buying a complete sled and get a lot of the mounting stuff from a dealer. I’m from Canada so it gets real expensive buying from the US as our dollar is at over 30% exchange right now. I found a guy In Canada that is doing conversions. It’s called B-Shop Performance. He seems to build nice stuff. Here’s a few pics he sent me. My questions are: he uses a shaft spacer to extend the secondary shaft, and a support to go between the clutches. Are other guys setups like this? (there is pics) He also uses the stock RZR secondary with the stock sled Yamaha primary. I would rather use the Team Tied, Boondocker secondary. I would have to source a header and intake set up, or build my own.
I guess I’m mostly wondering if the motor sits where it should, I don’t like the shaft extender but if it’s necessary I will buy this set up. (it doesn’t look like the motor can go much farther to the passenger side so I assume the secondary (tranny shaft)extension is necessary? What are your guys thoughts and do you guys have any pics of you engine placements in a 1000 chassis. Thanks guys, Dan

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So to start off this tale i thought i would give a back story as to why I am going boosted. I lost my original 900 engine due to movement in the tranny coupler breaking off the pcv off the valve cover. Due to this i lost oil and ingested dirt all with in 10 miles and seized a rod bearing.
Next thing was to search for a new engine and i ran across a good fellow forum member and bought his engine that was ready for boost cheaper than i could put together with a good engine and adding all the parts(9:1 piston, arp head studs, valve train done, manual tensioner). Also purchased from the same member I got stm rage 6 clutches and aerocharger intake with pump and cooler.
I then proceeded to procure a turbo Kit from another forum member. This was a Hansen turbo kit with a pcv with a map sensor, auto tune, and lcd-200.
Beyond these parts I purchased a donaldson intake, oil cooler with fan, larger radiator.
I have slight modified the exhaust of the hansen kit so to be able to use the aerocharger intake. I also modified the aerocharger intake.

This has all been a slow going process as i got side tracked fixing an ACE for momma and dealing with all 5 of my kids. I will finish this project but it will be slow going as i have had to also purchase a larger vehicle for momma to haul all the kids, due to having a 2 month old now. So please bear with me as I proceed with this project.:ride:

i have a 2012 900xp with 9:1 pistons, stock cams, stronger springs, hansen turbo kit modified with an aerocharger intake water to air intercooler, donaldson air filter, stm rage 6 cutches, pc5 with map sensor, lcd 200, auto tune.

i am looking for anyone with a program that i can start with for 10psi of boost. I have called,e-mailed, and even pm’ed on here several time to hansen only to be brushed off every time for one reason or another. any help appreciated

OK, dropped off my RZR at Nate’s shop and we decided it needs an AEM standalone kit. Can’t wait to see how this project goes! Looking for MAXIMUM RELIABILITY! I often use this RZR more like a jeep and I am hoping it gets good fuel mileage when I am not pedal to the metal. Perhaps even pulling a bit of timing would give it more margin of safety from detonation? The stock waste-gate spring seems to give it 8-9lbs of boost which is a couple lbs more than I really wanted. I have to date run the octane at 96 using Torco Octane Booster. I have about 38 hours on it and when the AFR is right, its a real pleasure to drive. Good luck Nate and Merry Christmas to you and family as well as everyone at Alba Racing!

Have a 2010 RZR-S 800. All items below have all been purchased but yet to be installed. Want to get everything I can before I get started.

Bought a Dragonfire BB 857cc kit(yea I know, why waste the $, add more boost) that I probably didn’t need but oh well. I did buy a HotRods HD crank and had it pinned and welded. Was recommended by Nate at Alba to run stock cam. Because I’m going turbo on an 857BB kit, I had to have JE make some custom 9:1 85mm pistons(could not find any at all).

Turbo clutching:
I bought an STM clutch kit from K&T with a black drive clutch spring (white and silver/grey paint markings) and red primary clutch spring(orange and silver/grey paint markings) and 3 cam arms pre-weighted with one tungsten washer in heel, 4 steel washers in midrange, and 2 steel washers in toe.

Is this a good starting point for my clutch set up for turbo or should I buy a different drive clutch helix also, and or add cam weight somewhere?

Turbo fuel:
I have a 190lph fuel pump, 1:1 rising rate regulator, but I think I’m in need of some 42lbs/hr injectors to run 12psi of boost? I had a link on a thread to some 42lbs injectors and I can’t find it anywhere, can someone give me a vendor or somewhere I can order these please?

I bought a used K&T Turbo off eBay(probably not smart) that I have not installed yet and it appears I didn’t get all the parts but I think I’ll be ok. I have the instructions but they are not very descriptive and there’s not a parts list.

I don’t have the 3rd injector intake plenum. I’ll have to look at my stock throttle body, but I thought there was a nipple on the bottom with a vacuum hose hooked to it, is this where I could run my BOV too?

I also bought a PC-V and Dynojet WB2 to tune the fuel(that’s a whole other animal :)) I have an aluminum air intake piece that came with the turbo that has a 3bar MAP sensor on it, but it also has a 90degree barb fitting where the crankcase vent/rocker panel vent hose connects too. As far as I can tell in the instructions, this aluminum plenum goes between some tubing from the clean air intake side of the turbo up to your air filtration set up. Is this the proper location for the MAP sensor? How does the PC-V sense MAP if the MAP sensor is on the air intake tube? Shouldn’t it be on or closer to the intake manifold, like between the throttle body and the intake manifold?

Could also use some help with how all the small tubing runs for boost control. The instructions I have are not very clear, but this is what I think I have figured out. There should be a line that runs from the turbo itself up to the wastegate? Then there should be a line running from the BOV to the throttle body on the intake manifold side of the butterfly which you put a T fitting on and run to the boost gauge(I think?). The wastegate should be between the innercooler and the throttle body correct? Would have been nice to get some decent pics in the instructions I got but the most informative detail in my instructions is how to replace the stock fuel pump, so I could use some general vent and boost control line install advice.

I don’t plan on running more than 12psi of boost, is there any other engine mods or add-ons I should be aware of for running a turbo’d BB set up?

Sorry for all the questions, but I know there’s far more expert knowledge out here on forums than I could accumulate, so thanks in advance.