hello my friends. i have a xp 1000 year 2015, i have installed kit stage 2 from sparks, clutch + intake + dynatek + full exhaust , the secondary dampener its installed, the problem is with the primary clutch , the part you see in the photo is out and the UTV is in neutral does not work, my mechanic say that he can paste that piece, in your expierence what is the best way to resolve this issue ? thank you very much !! 🙂

i need to say that we only test the utv only some minutes, after that that piece loosened and the utv become neutral and doesnt respond

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Anyone have any pics of the Highlifter version input shaft or have done a swap and can tell me if the teeth for the chain are wider than a regular version?

Reason I ask is I am swapping the bigger chain into my 570 after breaking the stock one. Logically just assumed the teeth were wider on the highlifter input to accommodate the wider chain but after looking at the highlifter RANGER parts diagram, it lists the wider chain and sprocket, but the exact same input shaft part number as my 570 has stock. Kinda got me thrown for a loop and kind of on my own since no one really does this to the 570. 570 already has all of the same gears as the HL rzr, as well as the same tooth count on the input shafts, but if they aren’t utilizing wider teeth on the shaft, I could keep my stock one and save some money from swapping clutches.

I recently had a mishap with my 2015 rzr 900. Was coming down a hill at a high rate of speed and ended up flipped over on passenger side really hard. Now machine is making a Jake brake sound when u let off gas and start to slow. Was wondering if anyone could tell me what this is and if it’s related to that type of wreck. Thanks guys

I recently had a mishap with my 2015 rzr 900. Was coming down a hill at a high rate of speed and ended up flipped over on passenger side really hard. Now machine is making a Jake brake sound when u let off gas and start to slow. Was wondering if anyone could tell me what this is and if it’s related to that type of wreck. Thanks guys

Took it for a ride today and noticed out of nowhere when I want to take off screeches and squeals pretty bad just taking off one I’m going it’s ok any ideas ?? I really appreciate it it’s 2016 it only has 16 hours ?

First and foremost, let me preface this post with what I have done thus far. I have read all the post in this forum and others in regards to the diagnostics and repair of the RZR front diff. Well over 6 hours worth and still cannot pinpoint my issues. I believe I have two problems and would like to plead with anyone with any possible insight that would point me in the right direction.
2010 RZR 800. Was high sided in the mud and AWD was not engaging. After several attempts of flipping the AWD switch, changing gears, restarting engine, the AWD engaged but went out again. Knowing most likely the sprague was broken, I began the repair process.

Removed the front diff, full of muck, cleaned everything, sprague broken, replaced with SuperATV one, replaced all bearings and seals, 23.6 ohms on coil. The new armature was slightly bent and would not hold very tight when 12 volt was applied to the diff cover. I tried the old armature and held very tight. Hard to turn by hand. Wear groves in plate worn evenly. Armature installed correctly with tabs in the slot of the cage AND in the indexing reliefs on the ring gear. I have removed and opened the diff twice to double check everything was installed correctly. Installed back on machine, RZR of the ground. I applied a separate 12 volts to the diff to eliminate any speedo or ECU signaling issues, more of that to come. Tried forward and reverse gears, front diff will not engage! Now, I did not install the axles and wheels. But I would think the output hubs should move after a 1/8 rotation of the rear wheels. Rechecked ohms on coil, 23.6. This is my first problem.

While checking the above, this is what I found out with the electronics. First, I checked the harness for power. When connecting both leads to the harness and placed the RZR in gear, switched the AWD on, the voltage would bounce from 4v to 12v. Speedo does indicate the gear position. I then removed the lead from the brw/wh wire, which leads back to the speedo for ground, and touched it to the frame. Viloa, 12 volts. So, I am assuming the speedo is NOT providing a constant ground for the coil, maybe it or the ECU is thinking the RPMs or above 3400. Now, same test, but I put the speedo in diagnostic mode, AND connect the ground lead back to the brw/wh wire on the harness….I get the constant 12v. Thinking I found the problem, I reconnected the harness to the diff, stayed in diagnostic mode knowing I have a complete circuit, and tried testing the engagement again. Nothing……so must be mechanical in the diff? Also, in diagnostic mode, the AWD setting displays “Off” when switching to AWD. I tested power at the switch, obviously working because I have power at the harness. So, bad speedo?

Recap.
– No AWD indicator on speedo in gear. Diagnostic mode shows “off” when the AWD switch is on.
– Coil ohms 23.6, 12volt from gray / brw/wh wires in harness in diagnostic mode but bounces when not.
– 12 volt from gray wire at harness when ground to frame.
– Diff completely rebuilt, except for armature plate which was hard to turn when energized.
– Rollers in cage smooth and move freely
– Pinion turns smoothly, resistance felt when diff energized on bench

Sorry for such a long post. I wanted to exhaust everything I could before asking for help. I am at wits end with this. I really don’t know what to do next. Any advice whatsoever would be appreciated. Thank You….

Hi

I have a 2011 Polaris 800 RZR that runs great when cold. Once warmed up and coming to a stop I need
to avoid using the brakes until the idle goes down because if I don’t, when i apply the breaks the engine will stall.

Not sure if this is an idling issue. When I take my foot off the gas it idles down nicely but it appears the clutch is
not disengaging and the bike keep moving forward until it come to a stop on it’s own, and then I can apply the brake without stalling the engine.

I can restart the engine without any issues.

Any advance on what would cause this?

Your help would be greatly appreciated.

JL

Hi

I have a 2011 Polaris 800 RZR that runs great when cold. Once warmed up and coming to a stop I need
to avoid using the brakes until the idle goes down because if I don’t, when i apply the breaks the engine will stall.

Not sure if this is an idling issue. When I take my foot off the gas it idles down nicely but it appears the clutch is
not disengaging and the bike keep moving forward until it come to a stop on it’s own, and then I can apply the brake without stalling the engine.

I can restart the engine without any issues.

Any advance on what would cause this?

Your help would be greatly appreciated.

JL

Has anyone used header wrap on the header pipes to reduce heat in the engine area and bed without possibly causing other issues? Not worried about muffler heat, as it is in a wider open area.

I used it on a Corvette on the pipes from the exhaust manifold back to the cat converter to reduce tunnel heat inside the car and it was effective enough to notice a difference.

so, I broke this secondary clutch part… tried to order it and found out that its not numbered in the Polaris diagram, actually is the only part that is not! do you know why? and where can I find it….

(its the part between 12 and 17)