I just purchased a 2008 RZR 800 that had a seized motor. I tore it apart and one of the rods sheared at the crank side and took out the crank, rods, pistons, cylinders, and camshaft. Case halves look just fine and same with the head.
Anyways, I ordered everything to rebuild it to original spec with all original Polaris parts except for the crank. I opted for the Hot Rods crankshaft.
So now i have a question… For those of you that have used the hot rods crank, how have you chosen the correct journal main bearings? I have read that there is color coded bearing halves based on the crank and case numbers but Im not sure if there is numbers on the hot rods crank. Also, the manual I downloaded does not indicate anything about different bearings.
I have searched for days but have not found anything on this. Any help would be appreciated. thanks
I have a 2014 800s I only have a dalton clutch kit for mods. I mostly run trails a couple of short course races a year and silver lake once a year. I’m really considering a bbk just not sure on which one. I’m looking at the muzzy’s 850, the bikeman 800, the dragon fire 857 I know I’m not going to beat 900xp’s I just want to be somewhat competitive. I’m looking for the biggest bang for the buck and if I should run any other mods with a big bore, fuel controller, exhaust , ect. Also thinking about a port and polish job on the head, has anyone noticed a difference with head work or is it not worth it. Any info will help thanks
15 xp 1k I’ve snorkeled the belt exhaust up through the bed but when the cover is submerged I’m still getting water in the clutch housing. Any help would be appreciated not sure if they make a different gasket or maybe an aluminum cover thst will seat better. Thanks
Rzr 800s. I got it a lil deep and it cut off on me pulled the air breater. A lil water came out and filter was sucked together no water on top of pistons plugs still getting fire. No water in oil turns over but wont crank. Any ideas
I just started having a problem with excessive engine braking on my 2013 RZR 900 XP Walker Evans. I have over 3000 miles on my RZR and I am very familiar with how the engine braking works from a driving standpoint (pros and cons), but I am not very knowledgeable about the mechanical side and what could all of the sudden cause my engine braking to kick in significantly harder than it did for the first 3000 miles. I pulled the cover to the belt housing and everything in there looked extremely clean and the belt, surprisingly enough, also looked great. Thoughts?
I know these have been discussed but I thought I would add a quick thread on my experience. I haven’t owned my 2015 XP1K for long but I have been annoyed with the rattle/knocking on start-up since day one. I looked around at a few of the options and they all seem decent.
I chose to go with Weller Racing HD Automatic Timing Chain Tensioner because theirs seems simple and they are local for me. I wanted to stay with self adjusting and theirs is almost identical to stock with regard to appearance and oiling. Their instructions are easy to follow and the job only took about 30 minutes.
I didn’t mind removing the valve cover as it was simple and I appreciated the comfort of knowing my cams were properly timed after the install.
* I had rotated the engine backwards in the past and later read how this could possibly lead to the chain jumping teeth.
So in the end I can’t tell what the difference is between the Weller HD Tensioner and the stock one because they look exactly alike. I can say my XP hasn’t knocked on startup since I installed the new one.
I know these have been discussed but I thought I would add a quick thread on my experience. I haven’t owned my 2015 XP1K for long but I have been annoyed with the rattle/knocking on start-up since day one. I looked around at a few of the options and they all seem decent.
I chose to go with Weller Racing HD Automatic Timing Chain Tensioner because theirs seems simple and they are local for me. I wanted to stay with self adjusting and theirs is almost identical to stock with regard to appearance and oiling. Their instructions are easy to follow and the job only took about 30 minutes.
I didn’t mind removing the valve cover as it was simple and I appreciated the comfort of knowing my cams were properly timed after the install.
* I had rotated the engine backwards in the past and later read how this could possibly lead to the chain jumping teeth.
So in the end I can’t tell what the difference is between the Weller HD Tensioner and the stock one because they look exactly alike. I can say my XP hasn’t knocked on startup since I installed the new one.
Been lurking for a long time and have learned a ton from this website so I thought I should start contributing myself. Got into a 2015 XP1K a couple of months back. I’ve had no problems (knock on wood) but I’ve opted to address common problems such as clutching and belts.
I’ve appreciated Todd (Hunterworks) from the Rhino days so I opted to go with the Dalton kit from him. It was a straight forward install and appears to be working well out of the box. I will adjust for larger/sand tires later.
So here is the reason for this post…. The included Helix is supposed to have two different profiles labeled C1 and C2. I looked at this closely and both profiles appear to be identical. If I can add pictures I will shortly.
I am curious if anybody running this kit noticed this or has run both profiles and noticed a difference?
I have not spoken to Todd about this yet but I figured it was interesting enough to post.
I have a 2005 Polaris Sportsman 800 Eli in my Ridge Runner , and would like to upgrade to a 900 engine out of a rzr , are they interchangeable ? Will the electrics, fuel system and drive system interchange?
Or. Would I be better off rebuilding this engine with a big bore kit and head work?
Thanks in advance Jim
