I’ve had a clutch snorkel leak for a while now that I just couldn’t find.

Today I attacked the problem.

And found that every FACTORY tightened (ones I’d never messed with) were very loose. That’s where the leak was.

These are the ones that are impossible to get to w/o taking half the bike apart.

The one behind the rear cylinder pipe and the one under the seat pan were not even finger tight.

No more leaks, but now I have to put the bike all back together.

GRRRR, stupid factory assembly line mistakes.

this is for the pros out their
i have a 2015 650 xmr with dalton clutch and 28 silverbacks.. i want to end up putting the 840 bbk from mrrpm and a cam. i wanna know before i start buying parts for nothing. will the stock exaust be ok for the bbk. if i buy a hmf slip on will it be ok for the bbk. and what tuner will be good also for now and after. what else will i need. im making a list and will start buying stuff. i use the quad for plowing, trail riding, and beating it most of the time in deep snow or deep mud 🙂 .

I am getting mixed info. I am referring to a 2016 xmr 1000r My owners manual says nothing about the break-in oil change. But it does say it isn’t broke in until 10 hrs. My question is. Should I do the initial oil change at 10hrs or is it not required until 100 hrs. I wish the owners manual was more complete

After reading all the posts where some put an atv on the tailgate and others just won’t even drive that way if loaded I decided to see if I could find an easy solution. I think I found one!

I grabbed a simple set of 6 inch tall rhino ramps and tow pieces of 4×4. I laid the wood side-by-side in the front of the bed. Place the rhino ramps up against the wood. This acts just like an ATV riser but without the bigger height. The 6 inch height difference lose the rear axle in about three or 4 inches.

The forward movement is enough to bring the rear axle center just inside the edge of the bed about an inch and a half. This means the majority of the rear weight is on the bed itself and not the tailgate. The tires still contact the tailgate but without a great deal of weight and it will not flop around.

This picture shows from the inside of the wheel inch clearance into the bed.

Another photo showing that the entire weight of the ATV is inside the bed.

The ramps have a 12,000 pound rating.

Rear photo showing the tires and wheels inside the bed.

After reading all the posts where some put an atv on the tailgate and others just won’t even drive that way if loaded I decided to see if I could find an easy solution. I think I found one!

I grabbed a simple set of 6 inch tall rhino ramps and tow pieces of 4×4. I laid the wood side-by-side in the front of the bed. Place the rhino ramps up against the wood. This acts just like an ATV riser but without the bigger height. The 6 inch height difference lose the rear axle in about three or 4 inches.

The forward movement is enough to bring the rear axle center just inside the edge of the bed about an inch and a half. This means the majority of the rear weight is on the bed itself and not the tailgate. The tires still contact the tailgate but without a great deal of weight and it will not flop around.

This picture shows from the inside of the wheel inch clearance into the bed.

Another photo showing that the entire weight of the ATV is inside the bed.

The ramps have a 12,000 pound rating.

Rear photo showing the tires and wheels inside the bed.

After reading all the posts where some put an atv on the tailgate and others just won’t even drive that way if loaded I decided to see if I could find an easy solution. I think I found one!

I grabbed a simple set of 6 inch tall rhino ramps and tow pieces of 4×4. I laid the wood side-by-side in the front of the bed. Place the rhino ramps up against the wood. This acts just like an ATV riser but without the bigger height. The 6 inch height difference lose the rear axle in about three or 4 inches.

The forward movement is enough to bring the rear axle center just inside the edge of the bed about an inch and a half. This means the majority of the rear weight is on the bed itself and not the tailgate. The tires still contact the tailgate but without a great deal of weight and it will not flop around.

This picture shows from the inside of the wheel inch clearance into the bed.

Another photo showing that the entire weight of the ATV is inside the bed.

The ramps have a 12,000 pound rating.

Rear photo showing the tires and wheels inside the bed.

My 2016 xmr 1000 has 8 hrs on it and I am hearing a ticking coming from the intake side of the number 1 cylinder. Is it possible that the valve already needs adjusting with so few hours on it?
I have done the trick of using a rarchet extension and holding it to my ear and moving around the engine to find the sound. I can hold it anywhere on the #2 cylinder and all I hear is a sweet swooshing sound. But when I move to the #1 intake side the ticking is obviously coming from there. What should the valve clearance be, just incase I decide to try to adjust it myself. Not thinking this would be a warranty thing.

I bet this gentleman had some sand in his eye after this..

While I had my machine stripped down to change my front diff seal I did a very thural look over on every single thing and noticed my rear drive shaft boot almost appeared to be disintegrating and almost like a piece of gum that has been chewed to long. I wasn’t sure why exactly, it has no rips but felt very mushy almost. So while installing my exhaust bolt I took notice of fluid running down my frame.

Upon further investigation I have a brake fluid leak from the cap and it’s not really visible for the most part and looks to be leaking closer to the area where there is no bolt holding it on. So the fluid has ran down the back bone of my frame and got onto my Drive shaft boot and turning it into bubble gum. To be honest I have never checked my brake fluid levels because the brakes feel fine and the quad IS BRAND FRICKEN NEW. Another cheap out part I’m blaming can am for! I opened up the brake fluid resivior and just shook my head in disappointment. What a cheap set up to hold your fluid in. I doubt it’s covered under my best warranty and feel they would just give me the catch-22 answer either way I explained my self.

A) you should check your oil level frequently and it’s not covered because $**t runs down hill and we only cover where $""t starts

B) you must not have put the cap on properly and it leaked.

Have a look at your own and you tell me what kind of quality brake fluid resivior you think it is because as I see it, junk.

Does anyone know how to remove the drive shaft properly?

I’m looking at putting 14X8" SS312’s in back with 30X11" Silverbacks instead of the 14X6/30X9" Combo. Does anyone have a pic of the two tires together to show a comparison in the width? I’m hoping this combo has some substantial width compared to the skinny’s.