just put motor back together. New rods and bearings, new timing chains and guides. Now after it warms up, motor barely turns over and have to let it cool down awhile before starting. I dont think its the crank or rod bearings because I have no lower knock or any metal shavings in the oil. I do have a tikk you can hear in the front cylinder once it is warm and can really hear it with the screwdriver trick. Could the timing be off the chains too tight or the valve clearance wrong? I have 5 hours on it since its been put back together and youd hink if the crank or rod bearings were bad id know by now.

Help with a decision. I want to buy my daughter outlander. I looked at the L model and used xmrs. Is the L model worth the money as far as a good quality built machine. Or buy a low milage xmr?

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So now that I have you here. I need a hand. I want to first start out and saying that tire sizes and fitments is very difficult to research. I have been looking for hours and still have not found the solid answer I was looking for. So here it goes. I want to replace my stock wheels and tires. I am currently running 25inch big horns on a 12 inch rim. I think I have it narrowed down to 27inch ITP Mudlite XTR. I would like to get the ITP SS 112 Wheels in a 14inch. I have no idea about offset ect or any of that other stuff. I really just want them to fit. I plan on doing a 2inch lift…pipe lift or whatever its called as well.

So it looks like the tire size is 27x9x14 for the front and 27x11x14 for the rear.

Wheels ITP 212ss – 14×8 4/137 5-3 – rear???
do I need to go with a 14×6 in the front? Im okay with buying a wheel spacer if necessary. the thing that concerns me the most is…there isn’t that much room between the mud guard/fender on the stock tires now.

07 can am outlander max xt. Im sorry but my brain is about to explode on this one.

2013 outlander XT Max. Lights turn on with key switch as they should. But when you switch to high they turn on and as soon as you let off of the selector switch it goes back to low beam. If you apply pressure in the right direction they come back on but out as you let off. What’s your thoughts

I have a set of c-fab trailing arms with 2" lift and 2" extension built in. These are sitting on my bench waiting to go in. I was going to order paTV front arched arms that add 1.75 of lift up front. Now I have a bad axle out back so that needs replaced as well.

Today I was contemplating getting portal lift..

Pros:
No strain on factory parts
Gear reduction so u can run bigger tires without losing too much power
Adds ground clearance to frame and arms

Cons:
Price
Can’t find anyone running them on atv
Looks to add 5 or 6 inches of track width

What do u guys think. Portal lift vs regular lift.

Ok, so I’ve got a 16′ outty 850XT. Ive read all the stories on here of guys needing brakes afeter 80 miles and so on. Well I went to try and order a set of EBCs last friday from my local motorcyle shop. of coarse they dont list the 16 850, so we pulled them up for a 15′ 800 and it specificaly said they will not fit my 16 850. I’m going on a weekend trip to the mountains and mine are already shot with 120 miles, what do i do????? Is there computer just wrong? I dont see them changing that up?

I’ve got an 08 outlander 800 that I just redone thanks to my cousin…… Finally got it back together this past weekend and in the frame wired and plumbed up …2qts oil and gallon coolant …fire it up and dash says limp mode active and P1520 for low oil is active…. Idles kinda rough and smells rich plugs aren’t brand new but only had 4-5 hours on them before it needed rebuilt……. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

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I’ve got an 08 outlander 800 that I just redone thanks to my cousin…… Finally got it back together this past weekend and in the frame wired and plumbed up …2qts oil and gallon coolant …fire it up and dash says limp mode active and P1520 for low oil is active…. Idles kinda rough and smells rich plugs aren’t brand new but only had 4-5 hours on them before it needed rebuilt……. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

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We went on a 2 day trip to ride this weekend. First night out, I hit what looked to be a dry hole. Half way through it. I sunk right into the thickest mud I have ever seen. Completely clogged up the silverbacks. All the way up to the fenders on the left side. Smoked the belt on a maverick trying to pull it out.. Finally tied my winch through a block to the nearest tree. It took 10 minutes of slowly winchING and burst of throttle here and there to get it out. Pretty sure I hurt my winch…

Anyways after that. Only stuck it once more in a Sandy river bed.

Thinking maybe one of those times I hurt my right rear axle. On our way back last night I turned right and it started clicking right then and hasn’t stopped. When I got my 800 xmr the shocks were on the 2nd notch. Before the trip I went to last notch on shocks and got 3/4 lift from it.. surely this angle hasn’t played a role in the quick failure. Other then that I got pcv and modified exhaust. Kinda crazy for an axle to fail so easily. Not very happy about it.

So what axles do u guys recommend? I was contemplating cobra of satv but I’m goin with 2 inch lifted and stretched trailing arms and 2 inch lift front arms so I want axles that I won’t be replacing all the time. Plus I got a pretty aggressive thumb. .

Ok I have found conflicting info and im trying to order skid plates. does the 2012 650 max XT have a Gen 1 or Gen 2 frame ??? how do I tell the difference?