I don’t have my 2016 Outlander 1000DPS yet, but I was reading the pdf of the owners manual and it states that you must be stopped to change from 2 wheel drive to 4×4 is this true? It seems weird coming from my 05 Yamaha which you can change from 2 wheel to 4 wheel drive at any speed. Here is what it says from the manual.
I don’t have my 2016 Outlander 1000DPS yet, but I was reading the pdf of the owners manual and it states that you must be stopped to change from 2 wheel drive to 4×4 is this true? It seems weird coming from my 05 Yamaha which you can change from 2 wheel to 4 wheel drive at any speed. Here is what it says from the manual.
I know this is a silly statement, but me and my buddies like to play tug of war with our quads, and when i am i apply small amounts of brake while the tires are spinning the bike cuts out like its a limiter of some sort. Is there anyway to override this?
Last time coolant was leaking into my plastic I checked the cap and it was loose so I tightened it, now it’s doing it again except a whole lot more, the hoses aren’t bent or cracked. What could it be? Also, my engine oil was just changed and if it was the water pump he would have saw it. What could it be? It only has a little over 11 hours on it. 2016 outlander XMR 650
15 800, no engine mods, spits and sputters on take off, it doesn’t do it all the time, but mostly when the engine is cold or after sitting for a half hour or so. It doesn’t seem to do with when warmed up. It sputters like a carbed engine when it needs more choke, like a lean condition. There’s about 2,200 miles on it, and the spark plugs have been replaced.
It’s out of warranty and I guess I’m going to have to start shot gunning parts. I’m thinking some type of temp sensor.
I know someone posted the same issue a while back, but I’m not sure he found the problem. Help me out.
Have the chance to pick up a cvtech primary clutch new from a 1000 for 400$
What am I going to have to change to run it on a 800 with 28s and possibly 30s down the road, do I need to change springs like stock clutch or just weights , running a dalton kit in the stock right now.
I’ve got a 05 outlander with 900 miles. Never had any major problems until the other day. I was riding down a paved road at top speed and the biked made a sucking sound and lost power for a split second, I let off the throttle and let it power down and then got back on the throttle and it picked back up as normal. I got to where I was going and turned it off for 45 minutes. When I tried to crank it back up it took several minutes to get it to fire. I let it set and it did the same thing again, having to choke it and play with the throttle to get ignition. We took the carburetor off and cleaned it completely and it was a little dirty but not bad. After putting it all back together it won’t go but 50% speed, when I get hard on the throttle it starts to spit and sputter and try’s to go dead. Lower speed it works with no issues. Any ideas on what could be the problem?
Hey guys i just got very lightly used qsc/stm clutches out of a 2014 maverick and i want to run them in my 2013 outlander 650 we both have 29.5" rubber and were both 665m above sea level. Can anyone help me with what spring and weights to run in the primary and what helix and spring i should try in the secondary. Thanks
I recently installed my new superwinch 35 and a EPI clutch kit. the clutch kit had issues and somehow i swamped my belt housing in mud and jammed a bearing in my clutch and have spring stuck inside my clutch. I’m currently trying to get that out and replace bearing and clean up that mess.
Besides clutch issue, when i try to change from different gears it refuses to change and will only stay in reverse and only occasionally will start working fine and then mess up again. Is this just a clutch issue that jammed it up or is something else wrong. incase it makes a difference after testing both i installed a epi secondary clutch spring and a stock primary clutch spring. Thank you for help, just wanna get her riding again.
I recently installed my new superwinch 35 and a EPI clutch kit. the clutch kit had issues and somehow i swamped my belt housing in mud and jammed a bearing in my clutch and have spring stuck inside my clutch. I’m currently trying to get that out and replace bearing and clean up that mess.
Besides clutch issue, when i try to change from different gears it refuses to change and will only stay in reverse and only occasionally will start working fine and then mess up again. Is this just a clutch issue that jammed it up or is something else wrong. incase it makes a difference after testing both i installed a epi secondary clutch spring and a stock primary clutch spring. Thank you for help, just wanna get her riding again.
