Why do people or why is it necessary to rebuild rollers on aftermarket clutches? I’ve seen comments and for sale items that have "rebuilt rollers" and always wonder WHY???

Don’t really hear about anyone rebuilding the Stock rollers!!

shmoky

Been looking but can’t find any for a 2010 with exhaust and twin air filter.

While I applaud the number of grease fittings on my 2014 500xt, it sure is a bugger to get to them. By reading and my count there is 16-
3 each side in rear-
4 each side in front-
2 on the rear drive shaft-
It seems like the larger part of the rear "swing arm" should have some(thing) but it doesn’t appear to be so.
I guess the next time its just put it up on 4 concrete blocks and when it comes to the rear driveshaft, pull the right rear tire and get it through the hole in the arm.

Anyone else have any tips :tools1:
N

I have a 2004 400 outlander and the last two times I hit significant water it stalled. The first time it took awhile before it would start after I removed the spark plug and put it back in. Coincidence? Not sure. The second time it pretty much fired up right away after stalling. No water in the airbox. Electrical?

I’ve been thinking thinking these springs and cups in the oneway clutch over and I’m beginning to think it could be VERY beneficial to leave them out, as my engine brake seems to be more than the bike needs. This is on an Outty Max XT-P 1000.

What do you guys do when when coming down extremely steep and technical grade and the bike starts sliding b/c the engine brake is holding it back too much??? Without having a clutch, the only thing I’ve been able to figure out is using the throttle but that can cause some hairy situations on technical grades.

On a motorcycle or manual transmission vehicle, I use a combination of the brakes and the clutch to control slides. We don’t have that capability on these machines. With my limited understanding, this would be a very good argument for leaving the springs and sleeves out of the oneway clutch…not to mention 4 less parts that can fail on you.

On the converse side of this equation, I’m wondering what this will do to the handling in fast acceleration/braking situations??? In the town I live in, I can hit 65 mph and come back to a stop again between stop signs with our city blocks. I’m wondering if having less engine braking is going to affect that…or if you can get the same amount of braking, just using the bakes.?.? I use the above scenario b/c it’s an easy one to illustrate. I ride fast and hard…just wondering if this is going to to affect how hard I can ride.?.?

I understand I’ll probably be going through brake pads faster…but that’s cheaper than replacing the bearings, springs, sleeves, retaining clips and belt every 100 hours b/c of clutch failure.

After a few phone calls, adjusting my tune over and over. I have this hesitation and stalling that keeps coming back. Yesterday I noticed my fuel gauge isn’t reading right anymore full tank shows just over half tank on gauge and half a tank of fuel show empty on gauge. .

I’m beginning to think the in tank fuel pump and float are taking a crap on me. Before I take my 3 month old quad in for warranty work and claim its my fuel pump, I wanna check my fuel pressure. Can I do this without removing the fuel line and injectors? Is there a port I can hook to?

I’m wondering if dirt, sand or water is getting into my tank through the cap. I read that on here somewhere that a few guy s had this problem. But my cap seals. There’s alot of suction when I remove my cap.

Started a new thread……………… thanks to all that gave input on the ELKA 4s I appreciate it on my other thread. I’m about to order the 4s but I seem to remember that some folks that had the FULL MUZZY system and ordered the ELKAS had some installation problems, maybe I’m wrong but I want to get everything right the first time around. If anyone has personal experience with this configuration please let me know what I need to do when placing the order according to ELKA they don’t have any modification for the Full Muzzy system.

My rig is a 2015 Outlander MAX 1000 XT with the full Dual exhaust MUZZY system.

Thanks in advance

I have a new 2016 850 Outlander. Thinking about new wheels and tires. Do NOT want to lift it or modify it. Just want something nice looking. I drive in mostly high desert, very little mud. It’s amazing how I bought this thinking, "Finally a vehicle I don’t need to modify." Seeing all your pics kinda screwed me. Thanks in advance lol.

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I am getting ready to do my 100 hr service myself. I plan to tear the clutches down and clean, scotchbrite, etc.. I have slipped my OEM belt a few times and just recently changed my tire/wheel to Maverick beadlock/bighorn combo, so I think I should replace my OEM belt and keep it as a spare. I have read for hours and can’t decide what to get. Gates G-Force (kevlar or carbon) or Dayco XTX?

Also, while I’m in there is the Dalton clutch kit worth doing or should I just save my money for a complete primary? I don’t plan to go any bigger than a 27" tire and I don’t do mud any deeper than tire height(and normally not that high).

I noticed they have changed part numbers for all the internals.

Is it any better?

I have a 2014 1000 that has 500 miles that started howling.
I got a complete new diff and noticed the different part numbers.