New to me 2006 400FA with 4k miles- looking to make the brakes work better.

1) Rear brakes are pretty bad, and emergency brake barely holds the ATV. Aside from pads, what else should I replace?
2) If I need to re-lube the cables – what’s the best way to do that – or should I replace them?
3) front brakes are better but might replace pads and fluid anyhow. The manual says I need a special bleeder. Is this something I can do without or get around?
4) The brake fluid reservoir has a stripped screw. Any ideas there?

thanks everyone!

New to me 2006 400FA with 4k miles- looking to make the brakes work better.

1) Rear brakes are pretty bad, and emergency brake barely holds the ATV. Aside from pads, what else should I replace?
2) If I need to re-lube the cables – what’s the best way to do that – or should I replace them?
3) front brakes are better but might replace pads and fluid anyhow. The manual says I need a special bleeder. Is this something I can do without or get around?
4) The brake fluid reservoir has a stripped screw. Any ideas there?

thanks everyone!

Hello,

I have searched the forums and tried about everything I can think of to fix my non-working front brakes. There is no pressure in the brakes, brake lever goes directly to handlebar. I have taken everything apart from the front brakes and cleaned them. I replaced the o-rings in the adjusters because they were in bad shape. I have bled the brakes from the master cylinder down and attempted from the brake area back up to the master cylinder. I removed and cleaned the master cylinder, then ordered a master cylinder rebuild kit and installed that tonight( then bled brakes again). I cleaned everything in the master cylinder area, including taking a wire to clean the small hole in the master cylinder. I replaced the brake pads (but not the springs). I have adjusted the brakes before and after the pads were replaced. I don’t see any leaks in the brake lines. What are the chances that the brake cylinders are bad? The right side seems to bleed better than the leftt side, but neither side seems to have the pressure to push both sides of the cylinders out. When I cleaned the brakes the first time they were pretty muddy, I have 2 kids that like to ride in the mud. Any suggestions are appreciated!

JB

OK I have had this quad for a while now. Noticed this when the front brake is pulled more than 1/4 the way in it feels like the right brake just locks up and the left one does nothing. Also when even lightly applied the rear one just locks up hard and then sometimes after the rear obelisks it gets sticky. Very scary caused me to roll a few weeks ago. Trashed my clutch and my handlebars

Okay so I have been messing with the rear brakes on a enduro dirtbike and I have wasted hours trying to get them bled and get the pads on. It has two "pistons" i guess, that push the caliper against the disk. When I press one down the other comes out and when I press them both down, the pedal stiffens up and as soon as I let off the clamp they go back to where they were. And they will only go out a little as I pump the brake pedal before they stop and dont want to go out any more. I can get the pads to fit on if I let out brake fluid from the bleed line, but them they wont go back out enough to push the disk!
What is going on? And is this maybe mean the caliper is bad or brake cylinder?
Any help greatly appreciated!

Thanks.

Hi all i have just acquired front suspension from a 96 300ex and thinking about modifying my 92 fourtrax 2wd changing the front from single a arm to the double of the ex…
Any suggestions information would be great or has it been done before

Has anyone used this lift kit on their fourtrax thinking about getting it for my 98 fourtrax 4×4? Honda 2" Lift Kit for TRX300 TRX 300 Fourtrax 1998 2002 | eBay

hey guys, I just purchased a used 2009 rincon, it has aftermarket rims and tires on it and a 2" lift kit, when I rode it the first time I noticed it was pulling right while riding and worse on deceleration, I took it home took some measurements and made small adjustments to the steering arms and it rides nice and straight now. Unfortunately its still pulling hard to the right when I let off the throttle. I checked all the obvious things such as brakes rubbing tire pressure and bearings, everything is fine. then I got the idea to push down on the front of the machine and bingo when I push it down the left wheel stays straight but the right side turns to the right, that explains it because when I let off the throttle the nose drops and pulls me to the right. has anyone ever had this problem and does anyone know what causes it? I’ve checked everything and I cant seem to find anything that doesn’t look correct.

Greetings.

Up front, I’m Joe New Guy and this is my first post. Get your popcorn. I’ve used the search feature and reviewed the stickies without finding any reference to the problem I’m fixing to describe. If I missed something hidden in plain sight (cause I’m the New Guy) then I apologize on this end. Show me the way.

OK, I bought a highly used Rancher – a TRX350FM, 2002 vintage, for not a lot. It’s been an adventure refurbishing her, and I’m soaking up much of your knowledge base as I go.

I popped off the rear brake drum and wow – it was packed with a blend of bearing grease, white lithium grease, mud, mold, crud and water. Of course the cables and wing nuts were all bent, stripped or broken. I reviewed the videos, bought the Haynes manual, downloaded the manufacturer’s version of the 24 & P from this site. I started removing things as I went after I boned up on what I was looking for. Experience is what you get 15 minutes after you needed it.

So after I finally got the shoes out of the goo and off the studs, into the scrap they went. I ordered some cheapies off eBay (shame on me). When they showed up, they weren’t right. I puzzled over it like the Grinch for awhile until I noticed that they were the right height but almost an inch too short – the edges of the shoes just touch the cam bolt, and when it pivots they slip off and clack together. It’s like a mini-shoe.

I sent a PM to KentCO for some sage advice on fitment (thanks, Kent! You’re awesome). He recommended I stop being a cheapskate and get some proper OEM shoes. So I did. They arrived today, and wonder of wonders the OEM shoes are dimensionally identical to the eBay shoes. Problem set just got wider.

I chucked the old shoes in the scrapper weeks ago, losing my only chance at measuring the originals before the replacements showed up (smart guy, me).

My theory is I have a rigged-up panel back from a different (larger?) Honda model with a larger brake drum and shoes. Everything on my Rancher’s rear brake assembly seems to match the parts diagram for a TRX350 in the manual and on Partzilla – similar shape, no stray extra or missing items, etc. So I’m reasonably sure it’s a good fitment? Did Honda use a larger but functionally identical version of this assembly on the 420/450 series in the same year groups?

Short of simply ordering a complete stock rear brake assembly and replacing the whole thing, does anyone have a suggestion for how I can size, identify and replace the shoes and drive on? Has this happened to anyone else here? Chances are excellent that I have a problem that someone else has already solved.

I’m going to call my local dealer’s parts guy and try to stump him tomorrow.

Again, my apologies if this has been asked and answered already. Search is definitely my friend.

Thanks in advance!

Dana

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I want to do a brake conversion on my Trx 300 4×4 it’s a 1999. Where is the best place to purchase a kit from? Also will need international freight to New Zealand.

If anyone can help please.