Category Archives: ATV Visual & Body Modifications

Non Heated Hand grip suggestions wanted

I am trying to get my wife’s 1990 trail boss together and the old hand grips are pretty worn. Any suggestions for a good, inexpensive hand grip anyone has experience with? I know there are alot of low budget options on ebay and such, but I don’t want something that is gonna turn to jelly in the Texas heat this summer. I don’t really have enough of a need for heated grips to justify them, just plain units.

Rob

Polaris Ogio Lock and Ride bag

Picked up a brand new Polaris Ogio Lock and Ride bag for the 570 tonight. Found it on Craigslist. Brand new, never even mounted. Got it for $100. The guy bought it anticipating getting a new Sportsman 450, then got a deal on a brand new Kodiak 700 that he didn’t want to pass up. Since the lock and ride isn’t compatible with the Yamaha rack, his loss was my gain!

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99 sportsman front rack

Hey every one I have a 99 sportsman 455 and the front rack that came in it broke by it’s not even the correct rack so I took it off and have been riding around with no rack but what I wanna know is has any one made a rack or put something else in its place ? I looked online for a replacement but there 200+ bucks and I was seeing there was a cheaper alternative or if a newer sportsman rack would fit like the one with the storage built in

Thanks

850 snorkel

Hey guys, so im wanting to snorkel my 2015 850 sportsman. Im wanting to do a home made but i dont know how to do it or what parts i need. Has anyone every done a home made snorkel? I gues what i want to know is what i all need and instructions or a step by step on how to put it all together. Thanks in advance

outlaw 525s oil change

I’ve read some threads that recommend changing the outlaw 525 oil every 3 hrs? unfortunately when I purchased my atv it didn’t come with a manual. ive also read that depending on the oil you use makes a difference on how often to change. its an 08 so im well passed the initial first couple of oil changes and can change my filter every other oil change..? please give me some feed back. also how can I tell its time for an oil change? does your motor over heat and wont start for a while possibly draining your battery? my window level is good but I have about 61/2hrs on my last oil change. im running rottella t6. doesn’t look to dirty either.

Gofastwilly’s build thread 2015 850 SP

Hey guys,

I’ll be posting write-ups here on all my modifications. This will be a good place to store information on mods and how they’re installed if I ever decide to sell the quad.

I’ve always loved modifying vehicles and atvs aren’t an exception. With a huge aftermarket and parts not costing a fortune, atvs are amongst the funnest vehicles to modify.

Here is a list of current modifications :

2015 sportsman 850 SP
-Big gun eco system exhaust
-ATV guru front and rear bumpers, powder coated orange
-Vivid Light bars 10" single row "K" series light bar, 5w cree LEDs, spot pattern
-custom painted tail lights

Future modifcations
-Orange powder coated handlebars. Finished but need to be installed
-Tusk heated hand grips/thumb lever heater
-custom Morimoto matchbox bi-xenon projector retrofit
-full underbody aluminum skid plates
-high clearance lower A-Arms
-warn 2500 lb. winch
-HMF optimizer
-K&N air filter/filter wrap
-amplified blue tooth speaker tube on front rack
-Polaris Interactive Digital Display
-Rear rack storage box with built in cooler

That’s about it! I’ll post my current mods and walk throughs for each in case anyone is on the fence.

*Big Gun Eco System exhaust*

The factory exhaust is held on with springs and mount to rubber bushings in the frame on the back of the quad. Using a hook tool or needle nose plyers will allow you to have the stock exhaust off in seconds. Next, you’ll need to attach the bolts to the mounts of the big gun exhaust. The head of the bolt needs to be on the right side of each mount. Simply slide the bolts through the rubber mounts similar to the way the stock exhaust mounts up and use the springs to attach the exhaust system to the lead pipe. Now, you need to decide on your tip set-up. There are 4 ways to run it.

1. Straight through
2. Quiet core only
3. Spark arrestor only
4. Spark arrestor and quiet core

With mine being the cheapest, running the quiet core and spark arrestor didn’t work at first. The Quiet core rattled a bit. Big gun sent me a few of the rings they use to make the spark arrestors to use as shims. It only took one between the quiet core and spark arrestor. That’s it! 5 minutes and you’ve got an ATV that sounds better than most cars With exhaust do!!

YouTube video:

*ATV guru front and rear bumpers*

Luckily, ATV Guru makes it simple to install front and rear bumpers. I ordered mine bare and had them powder coated Orange to match the shocks. The rear bumper is the easiest. Remove 2 star head bolts from the rear rack, place the rear bumper on the atv, replace the star head bolts and slide the included bolts through the bottom mounts. Simple

Front was not so easy. After dealing with stripped threads and a few other things, I ended up with grade 8 hardware. Remove the 4 bolts from the front bumper. Pull out the 4 stock nuts that sit in the frame and replace them with higher quality bolts. Slide the long 5 1/2" bolts through the bumper. Start from the bottom. Start just the 2 bottom bolts first, then, Start the top one’s. I found that doing a cross pattern when tightening really helped the process. After that, you’re done!

*10" single row light bar*

Use a dremel to oval out the light bar mounts for adjustability. My light bar was slightly too long to line up with the mounts welded to the bumper. I ovaled out the mounts on the bottom. Slide the bolts in and you’re good

Wiring. The harness that came with it is simple. Remove plastic from headlight pod and below the handlebars. Remove front rack. I mounted the relay on the right side of the ATV

The positive and ground wires with the terminal are perfect length. Put those Next to the terminals. Don’t attach them yet, you’re not done. Measure enough wire to reach the gauge pod. Cut the switch wiring and strip the leads. Slide on and crimp female spade connectors. Drill a hole, mount the switch and check polarity. Attach the wires. Measure the wiring going to the light bar cut about 4" up from the deutsch connector on the harness. Determine where to shorten it and how much. Solder, heat shrink and seal the joint up well. Connect the battery terminals and the deutsch connectors and you’re done.

*Tail light painting*

I noticed the tail lights have a ring built in and wanted to accentuate them. I had round stickers made to mask the area I didn’t want painted. 3 coats of ford ebony black and 3 coats of clear. Wet sand and buff to finish up.

Taped

Painting

Finished

The specs on the stickers are 3" diameter and a 1.5" inner diameter perfect circle.

Updates to come

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