I have a 2012 800 renegade that will not start what so ever. All it does is turn over. The bike is getting fuel, fire and air. I’ve checked all the fuses and they are all good. The only code that is showing up is "Check DPS" and that’s when I’m turning the bike over, but other than that there’s nothing else. Please Help!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk, 2012 Renegade 800Xxc, R.J.W.C, Highlifter OL2s, Fox Shox, ITP Wheels

Did some searching..found the mod but no washer size. Anyone remember the size of the washer? Nearest hardware store for me is 2 hours away so for me to take a bolt out to go check is more of a PITA than anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

Ok, I sunk my 2012 xmr and didn’t have time to jack with it for a year. I busted the engine down completely, had to bore the cylinders over, and get a valve job because of pitting. Now it’s back together and running like a scalded ape, but for some reason if I decel down hill agressively so that the engine brake is engaged one of the cylinders stops firing. Then I will feather the throttle and it fires back up and runs great again.. I also notice a miss at idle about every 4th rotation or so that sometimes causes a stall. Compression checks 185 front and just above 200 in the rear. Any suggestions? The bike only has 80 hrs and all other engine components looked great. Power is there as should be. I put about 10 hrs on it since the rebuild.

Hi guys!
So this is my first Can-Am and I’m still learning what’s normal and what isn’t.
My machine has 140 miles on it and I ride in low range 98% of the time since my terrain is mostly soft sand,clay,mud and water and I do tend to hammer it wide open a lot!!!! I only run high range when I can rip for a mile or more on fairly solid trail. I bought a Snorkel my ATV kit for my machine( Very nice, high quality parts) and installed in on my machine since I think the factory set up is a joke, especially on a factory "mud machine". During my cleaning this morning I inspected the screen on the exhaust side of the CVT snorkel and found it to be almost clogged off with rubber dust from the belt. Before the snorkel install I used to see a little rubber dust on the side plastic with the stock snorkel as well. I have never smoked the belt and don’t think its slipping at all. It engages at about 1850 RPM in low and this thing screams!! Should I consider this "dust" to be normal or do you think I have an issue? Thank you for taking the time to help!!

I had a reputable Can am mechanic tell me today to tip the bike on its side to when putting in gear box oil to be sure the box is completely filled. Does anyone else do this or add in oil when its level?

I had a reputable Can am mechanic tell me today to tip the bike on its side to when putting in gear box oil to be sure the box is completely filled. Does anyone else do this or add in oil when its level?

I have 2010 outlander 650 xtp and it is becoming very frustrating having to take it to the dealer every time I change the oil to get the service light off. Plus now I get a bad key fault and am being told I have to go to the dealership again to get the key reprogrammed wth…. Is there any way the average joe can use a laptop to get away from going to the dealer all the time?

Hi, where i can find flange and sleeve to do custom exhaust for my Outty 1000?
I can easily found piping and muffler but flanges on cylinder head and little sleeve for these flanges.. or i need to machine them?

Thx

As promised here is a complete instructions for the deluxe fairing install that I did.

Link below is the actual lights I purchased. When I got mine the CDN dollar was better and I got them for an offer of $20 USD.
ONE Pair 2 Inch 10W SUV Light BAR Offroad ATV 4WD Working Light Lamp Spot LED | eBay

You will need a connector you can cut to use as the connection between the lights in the fairing and the harness on your bike.
http://www.ebay.ca/ulk/itm/281754745972

First thing you need to do is install the lights in the fairing. To do this you need to separate the two pieces of the fairing. In the photos below you will see the screws you need to remove. Three on each side of the back and two in the front in the light compartment. Photos below.

I put the mount on each light and placed the U bracket around each mount with a small washer between the U bracket and the mount just to widen it out so it fit more snug in the slot on the fairing. Then just insert the bolt through the holes in the fairing, bracket and mount and tighten it up. You will need a 2.5" bolt for this. See photo below of the U bracket with washers and mount.

Photo of lights mounted.

There are two plastic plugs in the fairing that I drilled holes in just large enough to feed the light cables through. Now you can reassemble the fairing back into a single unit. I routed the cables so both were on the left side of the fairing. I used a cable tie to secure them to the bottom of the fairing. Next take the wires from the lights and twist the common colours together and attach butt splices.

Cut the 9005 harness cable from eBay in half and attach one end of the connector to the lights via the butt splices.

I then taped everything up and attached the connector to the bottom of the cup holder in the fairing.

Next I made up the connecting wire using the other side of the 9005 harness that would attach my lights to the bike. Using butt splices again attach a black and blue wire since those are the colours that we need to connect to in the bike. I attached a bullet splice to the end of the blue wire that will plug into the blue high beam wire connector on the bike.

Tape everything up once your done.

Now we will turn to the bike. Below is the electrical schematic of the connector we will tap into. The connection labeled DC5 is the weather pack connector we will use and the blue wire shown going to the left of the junction coming from the high beam switch will be used as well.

Remove your speedo pod off your bike by just pulling up on it. Once off toward the front rack you will see the main fuse compartment.

There are clips on either side of the fuse compartment that you need to release in order to pull the compartment out.

Look just up inside where you just pulled out the fuse box and there will be a connector still mated to its other side that has some tape on it that holds a blue wire with connector to it.

Here’s what you will have when you disconnect it.

The blue connector is the high beam connector and will connect with the bullet connector on the harness you made up.

Next feed the harness you made down into your bike through the main cable tie at the base of your handle bars.

Plug the bullet connector to the blue wire connector and insert the black wire into the connector mating up the black wire from your new harness. This was just a temporary fix for me and I have since made a proper weather pack connector to have the connection be just like factory.

I then routed the connector up the handlebar and secured with a cable tie.

Next attach your fairing to your bike and plug the connectors together.

Now when I turn on my high beams I also have my new fairing LEDs work.

If anyone has any questions about components or if you would like clarification on something, just drop me a line and I will be happy to help.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

As promised here is a complete instructions for the deluxe fairing install that I did.

Link below is the actual lights I purchased. When I got mine the CDN dollar was better and I got them for an offer of $20 USD.
ONE Pair 2 Inch 10W SUV Light BAR Offroad ATV 4WD Working Light Lamp Spot LED | eBay

You will need a connector you can cut to use as the connection between the lights in the fairing and the harness on your bike.
http://www.ebay.ca/ulk/itm/281754745972

First thing you need to do is install the lights in the fairing. To do this you need to separate the two pieces of the fairing. In the photos below you will see the screws you need to remove. Three on each side of the back and two in the front in the light compartment. Photos below.

I put the mount on each light and placed the U bracket around each mount with a small washer between the U bracket and the mount just to widen it out so it fit more snug in the slot on the fairing. Then just insert the bolt through the holes in the fairing, bracket and mount and tighten it up. You will need a 2.5" bolt for this. See photo below of the U bracket with washers and mount.

Photo of lights mounted.

There are two plastic plugs in the fairing that I drilled holes in just large enough to feed the light cables through. Now you can reassemble the fairing back into a single unit. I routed the cables so both were on the left side of the fairing. I used a cable tie to secure them to the bottom of the fairing. Next take the wires from the lights and twist the common colours together and attach butt splices.

Cut the 9005 harness cable from eBay in half and attach one end of the connector to the lights via the butt splices.

I then taped everything up and attached the connector to the bottom of the cup holder in the fairing.

Next I made up the connecting wire using the other side of the 9005 harness that would attach my lights to the bike. Using butt splices again attach a black and blue wire since those are the colours that we need to connect to in the bike. I attached a bullet splice to the end of the blue wire that will plug into the blue high beam wire connector on the bike.

Tape everything up once your done.

Now we will turn to the bike. Below is the electrical schematic of the connector we will tap into. The connection labeled DC5 is the weather pack connector we will use and the blue wire shown going to the left of the junction coming from the high beam switch will be used as well.

Remove your speedo pod off your bike by just pulling up on it. Once off toward the front rack you will see the main fuse compartment.

There are clips on either side of the fuse compartment that you need to release in order to pull the compartment out.

Look just up inside where you just pulled out the fuse box and there will be a connector still mated to its other side that has some tape on it that holds a blue wire with connector to it.

Here’s what you will have when you disconnect it.

The blue connector is the high beam connector and will connect with the bullet connector on the harness you made up.

Next feed the harness you made down into your bike through the main cable tie at the base of your handle bars.

Plug the bullet connector to the blue wire connector and insert the black wire into the connector mating up the black wire from your new harness. This was just a temporary fix for me and I have since made a proper weather pack connector to have the connection be just like factory.

I then routed the connector up the handlebar and secured with a cable tie.

Next attach your fairing to your bike and plug the connectors together.

Now when I turn on my high beams I also have my new fairing LEDs work.

If anyone has any questions about components or if you would like clarification on something, just drop me a line and I will be happy to help.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk