All posts by dstech

lucas?

any of you guys use lucas gear oils? i use the lucas fuel addative that seems to work pretty well on my small engines but i have never used the diff oil.

any input would be great…..thinking about running the 85/140 in my gearbox.

WELDING flimsy fender TABS

On the Outlander, where the SQUARE "U" shaped FOOTWELL comes to the TOP, at the FRONT and REAR, it connects to the FENDERS up above. There are THIN TABs which is part of the mould of both the BLACK footwell unit (below) and (in my case) the CAMO fender from ABOVE.
The TAB on the fender at the TOP is less than 1/8" THIN so on a rugged ride this weekend, a BIG BANG on the bottom of the footwell caused the FENDER TAB (rear) where the two join, to rip right off the (top) fender. At the corresponding (front) FENDER TAB, the bolt joining the TWO (upper and lower tabs) TORE OUT thru the (lower) footwell tab.
Same result front and back: the footwell and fenders were no longer connected and were sticking out at different angles…so

Not wanting to spend hundreds of DOLLAHS for a new FENDER and knowing that GLUE and similar fixes would only hold til the next trip into the bush: I decided to WELD the rear TAB back into place.

Repairs of PLASTIC, of which there are more than 7 common types, rely on the REPAIR METHOD being COMPATIBLE with the EXACT TYPE of PLASTIC involved.
On my former Kawi Quad, the fenders ETC were made of TPO (TermalPolyOlefin) plastic and only that type will adhere to "itself".
I went online and found a supplier of various PLASTIC WELDING tools and supplies and ended up ordering and receiving a "kit" which had about 7 types of plastic "welding rod" for various applications, including TPO. I was able to fix, by "welding" several damaged areas over a two year period on the Kawi.
Fortunately, I have already contacted CAN AM Customer Service to find out that our fenders are made of ABS plastic. This the stuff that black plastic "plumbing pipe" is made of and as a builder, I always have chunks of that stiff on hand.
There is a plastic WELDING tool available out there which relies on a HOT FOOT thru which you push plastic 1/8" welding rod, much in the style of a GLUE GUN. When it comes out the OTHER END, the HEAT has semi-liquified the rod and allows you you press in into place..like a glue gun. The pieces to be repaired have to be properly aligned and again, like the GLUE GUN, the HOT ABS will adhere to itself. Part of the Kit for the Kawi I ordered included two pieces, about 4" X 8" of stainless steel wire mesh that looks just like BugScreen material, except that it is S/S.
To apply it, you PLAN AHEAD and cut and bend the screen til its the exact same shape you need to re-inforce the repair/weld. Think something like REBAR.

Anyway, here are a series of PICS from my repair today of the REAR Fender TO FOOTWELL where the 2 1/2" TAB was torn off the TOP fender and at the FRONT torn out UNDER tab on the footwell.

The rear was WELDED (from the former 1/8" thick tab to NOW 3/4" re-inforced replaced TAB.
The FRONT was fixed by using two (much LARGER than OEM) fender washers to make the connection.
I dont know how many PICS I can attach or how much TEXT we are allowed on this forum, I may be OVER but, here goes:

Question for those familiar with Uwharrie forest NC trails

My son, my eleven year old grandson, his twelve year old friend and I went to ride the trails at Uwharrie last Sat. We are relatively inexperienced riders. I was on an Outlander 650, my son on a sport atv, and the kids on dirt bikes. We chose the specific trail based on the closeness to us and a place to get a day permit.

We started at Cotton Place trail head. We made it about four transitions up, and I do mean up, until we decided it was too much for the kids who fell multiple times. It was so steep that at two points my front wheels cane off the ground, not a feeling I enjoyed on a 700 lb. machine. To add to it, the rocks were plentifull and slick with wet mud with plenty of deep ruts. To support my assessment my son warned another more experinced group that chose to try it. One hunded feet into it one of them flipped his machine bending handlebars, etc. We later learned from some jeepers and two experienced atv’ers who decided it was to much that this was the park’s most difficult trail. Admitedly, there was a not recommended sign with atv & dirt bike pictured but after lots of driving we tried it.

From there we went to Dutch John trailhead. It was much better there but with the slick as ice flat muddy rocks and steep transition it was even hard to walk on. I’ll pause here and praise the job my machine did climbing this stuff. I’m amazed it hung on so well. This trail had some fun spots but the kids were clearly scared and going to get hurt, although they doidn’t admit it at that point. My son, the best rider of us four flipped his machine and a little while later we left disappointed.

Can anyone recommend some trails that are more beginner friendly. I watched many videos but the trails appeared in far better shape and the camera is good at hiding dramatic topography transitions.

On another note I’ve only had this 2006 Bombardier Max xt a couple of weeks but I am really impresed with it so far.

New product from Rigid Industries

This is a great alternative for those who want to ditch the weak halogen setup on the pods of their 850s. It states that it fits 2014 thru 2016 models but this has to be an error as it is showing the older style pod which is the same as the 09-13s. I don’t think it will work on the 2015/16s because the design of the pod is different at the bottom of the lens. The painted plastic portion wraps completely around the lens whereas the 09-14s is open on the bottom. the only way I see it working on a newer model is if you hack the body portion of the pod.
Polaris LED Light Mounts / Brackets by Rigid Industries – 2014-2016 Polaris Sportsman 850 LED HeadLight Mount by Rigid Industries

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