I can’t find it anywhere. But I put a snorkel on my bike going from 1 1/4 out the box right to 1 1/2. I am woundering what are the jets I should get to put in. I tried just the 132 main jet change but seemed to flood out but the stock 130? That was in it was more clear. But doesn’t seem to be able to keep up.. took it riding and kept dying out or would like not clear out or starve

I can’t find it anywhere. But I put a snorkel on my bike going from 1 1/4 out the box right to 1 1/2. I am woundering what are the jets I should get to put in. I tried just the 132 main jet change but seemed to flood out but the stock 130? That was in it was more clear. But doesn’t seem to be able to keep up.. took it riding and kept dying out or would like not clear out or starve

I have read as many threads as I can and have not found my answer. I have a 2012 outlander 1000xt that I just purchased used. It was snorkeled when I got it and I wanted to make sure the vent lines were snorkeled as well. I found the coolant weeping hose and ran it up, the rear diff and gear box are vented to the air box through the same hose, also the crank case is vented to the airbox, and the radiator vent is ran up. What I cannot figure out is that the front diff is ran into the fuel vent line and circles the top of the fuel pump and connects back into itself, so essentially it is vented into the gas tank through a continuous hose. There is no open end to the hose I am certain, I have looked at every inch of it and I also pumped air into the hose to see if it built pressure in the gas tank and it did. Is this like this from the factory or has someone changed it? If they are going to share a vent hose shouldn’t it come to a T and then have one hose with an open end ran to the pod? Any help is greatly appreciated I am new to the site and can am as well.

I have read as many threads as I can and have not found my answer. I have a 2012 outlander 1000xt that I just purchased used. It was snorkeled when I got it and I wanted to make sure the vent lines were snorkeled as well. I found the coolant weeping hose and ran it up, the rear diff and gear box are vented to the air box through the same hose, also the crank case is vented to the airbox, and the radiator vent is ran up. What I cannot figure out is that the front diff is ran into the fuel vent line and circles the top of the fuel pump and connects back into itself, so essentially it is vented into the gas tank through a continuous hose. There is no open end to the hose I am certain, I have looked at every inch of it and I also pumped air into the hose to see if it built pressure in the gas tank and it did. Is this like this from the factory or has someone changed it? If they are going to share a vent hose shouldn’t it come to a T and then have one hose with an open end ran to the pod? Any help is greatly appreciated I am new to the site and can am as well.

My new Rancher has low hours on it. This is my first ever Honda powersports product.

I performed the initial 20 hour service myself. (Having worked in the automotive industry as a mechanic for 26 years I’m pretty confident, as I’ve adjusted valve lash before.)

The intake valve was spot on, and the exhaust was a bit on the tight side. After making the adjustment, I buttoned it all back up and noticed that it actually had slightly more noise than before. I would think though that this engine should not make any valve noise whatsoever at an idle, with the valves properly adjusted. I dunno…maybe this is just normal for a Honda engine??

My question is….Do these engines normally produce some valve noise? It only produces a valve tick at an idle, after full warm up, and it’s intermittent. There is no valve noise if the engine is under a load. (For example…if you increase the idle speed a bit.)

I read in another forum that if you rotate the crank clockwise past the index mark, after you’re already on TDC, and then come back to it (counterclockwise), that it will activate the automatic compression release and will affect the accuracy of your valve adjustment. Is that accurate? I thought back to my first valve adjustment and its possible that I could have done that. Just to make sure I didn’t make a mistake, I tore into it a second time at 27 hrs/153 miles to re-check everything. Engine cold, TDC of the compression stroke, .006" on the intake, .009" on the exhaust. The crank was rotated clockwise, until the "T" mark aligned with the index on the crankcase, with clearance at both rocker arms to confirm TDC of the compression stroke. I have both straight, and angled feeler gauges, and used both to get a feel for the proper resistance on them when checking the clearances.

This second time, I found that both valves had approximately .001"-.002" too much clearance. Made the adjustments, and reassembled. Now, it’s a bit quieter, but it still produces some noise….not as much as before though.

I’m very meticulous about maintenance on all my vehicles. Is there a Honda tech out there that can help me? Any advice or confirmation would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks! 🙂

My new Rancher has low hours on it. This is my first ever Honda powersports product.

I performed the initial 20 hour service myself. (Having worked in the automotive industry as a mechanic for 26 years I’m pretty confident, as I’ve adjusted valve lash before.)

The intake valve was spot on, and the exhaust was a bit on the tight side. After making the adjustment, I buttoned it all back up and noticed that it actually had slightly more noise than before. I would think though that this engine should not make any valve noise whatsoever at an idle, with the valves properly adjusted. I dunno…maybe this is just normal for a Honda engine??

My question is….Do these engines normally produce some valve noise? It only produces a valve tick at an idle, after full warm up, and it’s intermittent. There is no valve noise if the engine is under a load. (For example…if you increase the idle speed a bit.)

I read in another forum that if you rotate the crank clockwise past the index mark, after you’re already on TDC, and then come back to it (counterclockwise), that it will activate the automatic compression release and will affect the accuracy of your valve adjustment. Is that accurate? I thought back to my first valve adjustment and its possible that I could have done that. Just to make sure I didn’t make a mistake, I tore into it a second time at 27 hrs/153 miles to re-check everything. Engine cold, TDC of the compression stroke, .006" on the intake, .009" on the exhaust. The crank was rotated clockwise, until the "T" mark aligned with the index on the crankcase, with clearance at both rocker arms to confirm TDC of the compression stroke. I have both straight, and angled feeler gauges, and used both to get a feel for the proper resistance on them when checking the clearances.

This second time, I found that both valves had approximately .001"-.002" too much clearance. Made the adjustments, and reassembled. Now, it’s a bit quieter, but it still produces some noise….not as much as before though.

I’m very meticulous about maintenance on all my vehicles. Is there a Honda tech out there that can help me? Any advice or confirmation would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks! 🙂

What exhaust and programmer set up are y’all using on your Outlander 1000 XMR?

I like deep sound and a lot of speed!
All help appreciated!:clapsmilie:

What exhaust and programmer set up are y’all using on your Outlander 1000 XMR?

I like deep sound and a lot of speed!
All help appreciated!:clapsmilie:

Anyone run into this …….maybe I installed rope wrong ?? I have a 12′ synthetic rope on my winch for use with bucket …… rope comes out of winch and goes up to pulley then down to bucket ……….works good but over time when lifting the rope is up against the side roller of fairlead and over time it gets flattened and breaks …….. what can I do to get rope to come out of center of winch yes when I get careless and keep running winch when bucket at stop that don’t help 🙁

Hope this makes sense

Anyone run into this …….maybe I installed rope wrong ?? I have a 12′ synthetic rope on my winch for use with bucket …… rope comes out of winch and goes up to pulley then down to bucket ……….works good but over time when lifting the rope is up against the side roller of fairlead and over time it gets flattened and breaks …….. what can I do to get rope to come out of center of winch yes when I get careless and keep running winch when bucket at stop that don’t help 🙁

Hope this makes sense