On the tube style rear axles (Foreman, Rubicon, 350 Rancher etc) we all end up with water in our axle tube on the left side, and a brake drum full of water on the right side. Sometimes we even replace the bearings and seals, and STILL get water in there.
Here’s why.
This is on my 2006 Foreman FM. I replaced the left axle bearing and seal, but STILL had water getting in there.
Note the hub surface on the old hub, vs the hub surface on the new hub. That grooved area is what seals against the new seal. When you get grooves in the hub, it cannot seal up against the new seal you install, so water still gets in.
In the bikes i’ve worked on, a lot of them have grass or other debris wrapped around the hub which not only destoys the seal, but also eventually will groove the hub.
Sooo, if you’re going to do a rear end rebuild, it might not be enough to replace your bearings and seals. Inspect your hubs and if the sealing surface is worn or grooved, you need to replace the hub(s) as well.
On the tube style rear axles (Foreman, Rubicon, 350 Rancher etc) we all end up with water in our axle tube on the left side, and a brake drum full of water on the right side. Sometimes we even replace the bearings and seals, and STILL get water in there.
Here’s why.
This is on my 2006 Foreman FM. I replaced the left axle bearing and seal, but STILL had water getting in there.
Note the hub surface on the old hub, vs the hub surface on the new hub. That grooved area is what seals against the new seal. When you get grooves in the hub, it cannot seal up against the new seal you install, so water still gets in.
In the bikes i’ve worked on, a lot of them have grass or other debris wrapped around the hub which not only destoys the seal, but also eventually will groove the hub.
Sooo, if you’re going to do a rear end rebuild, it might not be enough to replace your bearings and seals. Inspect your hubs and if the sealing surface is worn or grooved, you need to replace the hub(s) as well.
On the tube style rear axles (Foreman, Rubicon, 350 Rancher etc) we all end up with water in our axle tube on the left side, and a brake drum full of water on the right side. Sometimes we even replace the bearings and seals, and STILL get water in there.
Here’s why.
This is on my 2006 Foreman FM. I replaced the left axle bearing and seal, but STILL had water getting in there.
Note the hub surface on the old hub, vs the hub surface on the new hub. That grooved area is what seals against the new seal. When you get grooves in the hub, it cannot seal up against the new seal you install, so water still gets in.
In the bikes i’ve worked on, a lot of them have grass or other debris wrapped around the hub which not only destoys the seal, but also eventually will groove the hub.
Sooo, if you’re going to do a rear end rebuild, it might not be enough to replace your bearings and seals. Inspect your hubs and if the sealing surface is worn or grooved, you need to replace the hub(s) as well.
If I’m in any forward gear goin slow the quad will stop or something locks up. Reverse is ok no issues. But if you gas on it you can make it go forward but with a click noise
Ok guys and gals, here it is!! Tuning for the 450 is ready. HUGE gains on this little machine! Check it out and let me know if you have any questions other than when is the 570, 850, and 1000 tuning going to be ready. :biglaugh:
570 we had to make a few changes to as the tuning is much different with out being fly by wire. Should have it very soon!!
Here’s the details and a pic of the stage 1 final dyno run. Thanks for being patient with us!! It takes a lot of time to do some of these tunes and reliability and safety are our number 1 concern. Pricing starts at $449 and goes up per stage.
Speed Limiter Removed
•Rev Limiters raised
•100% Throttle opening vs. factory 30% limitation
•Improved throttle response in all modes
•Improved ignition timing advance optimized for 91 Octane for maximum power on stages 2-5
•Fueling adjusted for aftermarket components (intakes, exhausts) for optimal Air/Fuel Ratios
•No need to run a "piggyback" fuel controller with our reflash for most bolt on mods (You are responsible to make sure your mods are compatible with our programming – Most aftermarket companies’ exhausts and intakes are compatible with our programming)
•Torque Limiters removed for a much more responsive and fun vehicle
•Cooling fan on temperature is lowered by 20 Deg F, but can be set to whatever temperature the customer wants
•Stage 1 is 11 WHP (50% HP increase over stock!! Factory intake and exhaust, 87 octane)
•Stage 2 is 16 WHP (Factory intake and exhaust, 91 octane)
•Stage 3 is 17 WHP (aftermarket intake, factory exhaust, 91 octane)
•Stage 4 is 20 WHP (Aftermarket exhaust, factory intake, 91 octane)
•Stage 5 is 22 WHP (100% HP gain at the wheels!!! Aftermarket exhaust and intake, 91 octane)
•Stage 5R is 25+ WHP (Aftermarket exhaust, intake, 100 octane)
I been looking for a Detroit gearless locker and can’t find one for this four wheeler. Detroit said they quit making them. Don’t want a spool. Has anyone put something from another 4 wheeler in this one? Or tried the washer thing and it work?
I have a spare parts 01 rubicon but I thinks it’s a spool in the front.
Would love to put a selectable locker in it out of something else. I think Foreman has them in some the way I understand.
I been looking for a Detroit gearless locker and can’t find one for this four wheeler. Detroit said they quit making them. Don’t want a spool. Has anyone put something from another 4 wheeler in this one? Or tried the washer thing and it work?
I have a spare parts 01 rubicon but I thinks it’s a spool in the front.
Would love to put a selectable locker in it out of something else. I think Foreman has them in some the way I understand.
I’m not sure if this belongs here but here goes!
I’ve been told the snow blower that hooks up to your quad in order to be pushed, are hard on belts and the machine.(I’ll be running tracks in winter) Any truth to this? I’ve been researching some of these blowers …………Man! THEY ARE EXPENSIVE !!!! You can buy a lot of bling for your ride for their prices!
I also am looking at getting a rough cut tow behind mower. They too are not cheap!! I wanna "hog" my hunting spot near apple trees , and hire myself out to do other hunting spots lawns etc. anything really to help offset the cost of it and maybe a blower. Any ideas? I need a pretty heavy duty mower capable of taking care of 1.5-2 inch diameter bushes ………..Brands too would be appreciated!!………Just remember I’m in snowy ole Quebec Canada! I have been looking at "Berco" and "Kunz"
After searching and searching for the resistor pack for these newer Sportsmans because it’s an obsolete part number because it’s a sealed unit and in order to replace it you have purchase the entire harness, I finally found a resistor pack harness kit. I ran diag on the speedo display and my "low" position was out of spec. I replaced my gear position sensor last year, and it fixed only half of the problem. Anyway, here is the ebay item, Electrical Resistor Module Harness Kit 2014 Polaris Sportsman 400 2204890 | eBay
If any of you are having the same problem as me, then I recommend running gear circuit diag and shifting through the gears to make sure your resistor pack is working correctly and keeping the ohms within spec. You’ll need your service manual in order to get the correct ohm specs.
Maybe I’ve been living under a rock but it took me forever to hunt this part down. RZR’s and other various models had a connector style resistor pack that was replaceable but not mine.
