The local Polaris dealer has had my 2010 550 Sportsman EFI (EPS) in the shop twice and has failed to correct the re-occuring problem. Is there any way to diagnose the problem without special dealer only test equipment i.e. digital wrench, TPS test kit, etc.?
I just found this group and I am happy I have. I have a 2008 800R Outlander which I haven’t ridden much because I’ve been too busy. Well, that and the need to replace the relays. Anyone know of a cheaper place to buy them? VJ28-95F74-SO1 are the ones I need and there are three in the front. Thanks in advance.
I wanted to let everyone on the forum know how great of an experience I had over at RVS performance last friday. I have been researching clutch kits for quite sometime now just didn’t pull the trigger on one yet. I ended up calling RVS because of all the positive commits he has received on this site. He was more than willing to educate me on all things clutches. Chatted with him for over twenty minutes that day. I told him I would be calling him in the next couple weeks to purchase one from him.
I called him back up last Friday just to see if he could fit me in since I had a project I was working on close to his shop. He said he was in the middle of a big build but could fit me in. I dropped my wheeler off and hung out there while he worked on my machine. It was great to talk to him and his guys while I waited. He got my wheeler done in a timely fashion and I was out the door.
I haven’t had to many good experiences with performance shops and or dealerships over the years. I can say I wouldn’t hesitate to bring either of my wheelers to RVS Performance. Ryan is the real deal and a great guy. Thanks again!!!
I have a big trip coming up that I’ll give a review of the qsc kit.
I wanted to let everyone on the forum know how great of an experience I had over at RVS performance last friday. I have been researching clutch kits for quite sometime now just didn’t pull the trigger on one yet. I ended up calling RVS because of all the positive commits he has received on this site. He was more than willing to educate me on all things clutches. Chatted with him for over twenty minutes that day. I told him I would be calling him in the next couple weeks to purchase one from him.
I called him back up last Friday just to see if he could fit me in since I had a project I was working on close to his shop. He said he was in the middle of a big build but could fit me in. I dropped my wheeler off and hung out there while he worked on my machine. It was great to talk to him and his guys while I waited. He got my wheeler done in a timely fashion and I was out the door.
I haven’t had to many good experiences with performance shops and or dealerships over the years. I can say I wouldn’t hesitate to bring either of my wheelers to RVS Performance. Ryan is the real deal and a great guy. Thanks again!!!
I have a big trip coming up that I’ll give a review of the qsc kit.
My dad has a 2011 550 and is having an issue where the four wheel drive will not stay engaged when in reverse, only the back tires spin. The four wheel drive works normally in forward gears.
All the dealer will tell him is that it’s a transmission problem and they have to pull the transmission and rebuild it.
I was told to stick with 25" tires if i wanted to keep the power that i currently have, Which is obvious. But if i go up to 26", Just how much power will i loose?
Right now it will lift the tires in high, on cement.
I don’t do much mud stuff. Mostly fast trail riding.
Ever since I fixed my 2005 Yamaha Bruin 350, it smoked like a chimney. I recently got around to replacing the piston and rings, but afterwards I ran into some issues.
-Valves are LOUD! Since the intake nut fell off, and I ran the bike without an intake nut the lobe on the cam may be messed up? Would like an opinion on that.
+ Bike seems to overheat. This is a weird one, it starts to ping like a car would when it overheats and looses power until it shuts itself off. Now these bikes I know are oil cooled, yet the oil level was fine.
The fan although doesn’t work, but I never had this issue before I rebuilt the bike just recently.
+ Smoke comes from the front of the cylinder head, like the head gasket/exhaust manifold area and it smells kinda like soot and oil smoke. This part is weird, because having smoke rising from under your legs while stopped is an odd occurrence to me.
+ Pops/Backfires from intake when cold starting. Lean condition? Or slack intake valve again..
Would love some expert advice, of course I will run through all the diagnostic courses such as checking valve clearance again and lean/rich condition via spark plug but I always like a second input on the issues.
Here’s a video of the valve/ticking noise for those who are wondering.
So I just bought a 2004 honda foreman 450es. Lovin it sweet bike. But the top end was just rebuilt. I’m wondering how to break it in. I’ve seen the two different methods easy break in and hard break in. I was thinking I’d go with hard break in. But the motor already has 2 hours on it so whatever was going to be done is already done. So what should I do?
Thanks.
