This Polaris over heats a lot and most people I’ve talked to say Polaris are notorious for having either a faulty head gasket or blown gasket. I’m hoping it isn’t because it’ll be a mother to change it on this bike. Anyway this is what is happening. You ride it for a good little bit then the light cuts on. If you ride it further it pukes on your leg for the overflow. The fan is wired straight to the ignition so if the key is on the fan is on. The radiator is clean. The propellor is doing its job and the thermostat is out completely. Now if the cap is bad the spring won’t be strong enough to hold the pressure causing it to resort to the overflow and puke. Right??? Please help
I have a straight axle rancher and to me the rear suspension seems way too soft. I put a basket rack on with just one bag of feed it sags about 3 inches. There is no adjustments on the suspension. Is that common for a rancher or could the coil over shock be worn out? Thanks.
Adjusted my tie rods yesterday using the trusty old tape measure on my grizz and while I was doing so the thought popped in my head about how other people do this?
What looks to be the easiest method? The string, tape, or something homemade to make it a painless routine?
I bought a 2006 Can-Am Outlander XT400 – yellow – in May this year to harrow my arena and do other chores around the farm. Someone brazenly walked down my driveway in the middle of the night on August 30th and stole it. I would appreciate anyone keeping an eye out for it.
Did anyone else watch the 3 part TV series "Harley and the Davidsons " , I know this is a Honda site but it is about dirt , I ride Honda in the dirt , but when it’s the highway , Harley-Davidson is hard to not like ————- I really thought it was a great movie , I do wonder how much is true and how much is for TV
Hi I’m new to the forum. I just bought a used Yamaha Kodiak. The previous owner replaced the front left drive shaft cv assembly. When letting off the throttle it veers really hard to the left. It feels very unsafe. I am wondering if it is just an alignment issue or if the cv assembly is different from the other side.
Originally from the East Coast of Canada but came to Alberta for work. Picked up a 2016 Grizzly to learn how to keep this machine running smooth!:lala:
I have a 2016 Grizzly and on the way back from a ride the other day I heard a clicking noise…I look under to find a blown out boot on the left rear axle on my machine…Took it to the dealer waiting for approval for warranty work to be done. (Not Looking Good) So I’m here to ask what people suggest for an aftermarket axle for a 2016 Grizzly….Having a lot of trouble finding any aftermarket axles online for them and I don’t want to shell out the $800 for the axle that the dealer quoted me. I heard that a rear 2015 axle will work but I thought the 2016s were made wider, can anybody confirm this?
2011 Grizz 700 here and so far the only thing I’ve been told about replacing my coolant is that I should put the same color stuff back in that came out. But other than that nothing specific. A search through both the service or owner’s manual gave no coolant info other than capacity. Here’s a comparison of the old and the proposed new…
The stuff on the left, what’s coming out, is a blue-green. I’m second owner and only put about 75 miles on the machine, so I have no idea how old this coolant is.
Stuff on the right is the new coolant the guy at the car shop suggested, and is more of a pure lighter translucent blue. It’s Pentofrost NF, whatever that is. He said it’s what’s recommended for European, including BMWs. Here’s the bottle…
So…
1) have I found the right coolant?
and
2) does this stuff need to be diluted? The bottle says it’s ‘full strength.’
Here is the deal, I have a ’16 Outlander Max and I got the Can Am plow with it. The other day my wife and I took it for a drive and bumped a few rocks, no big deal right. Well tonight I tried to use the winch and it did free spool to pay out cable and the out button works so that part is fine but the problem is it will not go back in. I checked the season and none of the wires are messed up for the plow sensor that I can see. Can anyone tell me or take a picture of where this sensor plugs into the winch harness so I can unplug it and see if it will pull the cable back in and it is not the winch. My weekend is full enough not to have to get this back to the dealer but if I have to I will just would like to try it with out the plow sensor plugged in and hope it works.
