Good Day all,

I am in the early stages of getting ready to rebuild a Trail Boss 325 engine, as it has grenaded the connecting rod bearing on the crank. So far I have taken the head and cylinder off, then I saw how much play there was in the connecting rod and how many hunks of bearing material there were in the bottom end. This is my Dad’s ATV, He wants me to move forward with a rebuild on it, so tonight I will get the crankcase out of the frame and split to check the condition of the crank.

It HAD a newer engine in it, until someone borrowed it from my dad and they destroyed it because they never take care of anything.

I do not have a flywheel puller or a clutch puller. Any substitutes?

Also, depending on if the crank needs machined (I am sure it does) I haven’t the slightest clue on how to size bearings or tell the machine shop what to do. Is there a good resource for that?

I am going with the EHS fuel controller and a exhaust tip.

What’s the difference between the R2 racing tip and the EHS tip? They look the same?

Being many complain about the loudness of the R2 tip is there any company producing a quieter tip?

I found a nice stainless steel one with a 90 downturn (armortech #259181 can’t find anyone who sells it !

Just want to buy the right tip the first time.

Thanks for any help.

New to the forum, hopefully someone can help. My kid’s TRX70 sat for like 2 years unused. went to start it and wouldn’t run. Took apart the carb, cleaned it up good, still woudn’t run. A couple weeks went by before I got a chance to look at it more and it started right up.

The problem though, is that when I start it, regardless of choke position, and regardless of positioning of the two adjustment screws, it takes off with a super high RPM. It’s actually running so fast that the exhaust will start to glow red if I run it more than a few seconds. I’ve had the thing running before, it was never anywhere close to as loud as it is running now.

I’ve checked gaskets and o-rings and everything appears good on that front. The throttle valve (I’m a bit new to carbs so forgive me) that moves the pin up and don when the throttle is pressed appears to be in as far as it will go when i put it together, and when pushing and releasing the throttle the valve has roughly a 1/8" of movement, but seems to return to the normal position correctly when the throttle is released. Also, when I push the throttle, it des nothing to change the RPM’s, doesn’t speed up or slow down at all that I can notice.

When i took it apart I took pictures but have since had a phone mishap and lost them all. Everything internally I’m 99% sure is where it should be. There are two hoses on the outside of the carb, one on the bottom that is the overfill drain, and the other is up top with the cylinder that the throttle valve slides into. The one up top is not connected, and I can’t find anywhere to connect it. I’m thinking it’s a pressure vent, but maybe it does have an actual place to go? I tried blocking and unblocking the top tube to see if it had an affect and it did not.

I have been testing it with the gearbox in neutral. It I put it into gear the wheels start spinning fast.

Anyone have any thoughts on what the problem is?

Ok, so first of all I have a 2016 Kodiak 700. It didn’t seem to me like the the Kodiak section got a ton of love, and I figured that since they are so alike, maybe y’all Grizzly buffs could help a bro out! If a mod needs to move me, I understand.

Anyways, I think it is time to upgrade the wheels/tires. I think I know which wheels I would like to get, the STI HD Beadlock 12×7 rims. Why you ask? Well, I rolled one of the stock tires off the rim on the trail the other day and I was not happy about it, it was near dark and that was no fun! So I figure maybe these will help. The big question I have is on the tires. Stock are:

Maxxis AT 25×10-12 rear on 12×7.5 rim
Maxxis AT 25×8-12 front on 12×6.0 rim

They have been OK tires, but have quite a few slices in the surface rubber of the tires and it concerns me. They are about half worn out. They have done alright on most terrains I have been on, they only seem to have problems on damp tree roots.

I live in Oregon, and we have a bit of everything here and I go all over the state to ride. The only thing I don’t ride in is sand. I’ve had it up to the cargo rack in mud, loose shale type rock, light mud, loose dirt, crawling logs and larger rocks. So I really need a good, durable all-around tire that will wear well. Many of the parks out here have some pavement and it seems to eat rubber. My stock rims are beat to crap from rocks and tree root balls, so I would want something that offers some sidewall protection and not be so prone to getting surface slices in the tread of the tires. I understand that going with a wider tire on something like a 7" wide rim will help with that? I also do not really like the look of having those little dinky tires on the front, so should I do the same width tire front and rear, or just slightly smaller width tire in front, but wider than the stock tire? I do want to stick around the stock diameter of tire because I don’t want to mess with lift kits or clutch weights right now.

Help, and thanks! :gcrules:

Hello everybody. I have a 04 450 kodiak solid axle. Im a large guy(230ish) and do a wide variety of this with my kodiak ie plowing, mudding, high speed trail riding, pulling things. I currently have a 1mm clutch shim mod and larger ITPs 589s. I did a clutch service and noticed I need to replace my rollers and the belt the next time im in there. I dont mind a somewhat agressive clutch, but not sure the exact route I should take. Any info can help, thanks

Hi all!
I just picked up a used 2016 Sportsman 570 SP with only 30 miles on it!

I’m starting to research putting a winch on it and came across a couple of wires not connected to anything. I was hoping someone would know what they are for.

The first photo is a wire under the kill switch
The second photo is in front of the front diff where the winch goes

Attachment 57778

Attachment 57786

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Hello new to the board here and have a question I am looking for help on.

I replaced the stator and pick up coil on my sportsman. Over the pick up coil was a metal bracket.

Is this bracket essential or needed?

It seems when I put the bracket on it actually tilts the pic up coil away from the flywheel. when it does this it doesn’t generate a spark. If I take it off the pick up coil is perpendicular to the flywheel and it runs like a raped ape…

Just looking for your thoughts

Guys we have a +5mm bolt on big bore for the Polaris 570 this is a true bolt on no pipe or map change needed. Of course if you have these it will only enhance the performance. It is a very affordable way to get more power out of these machines. I would like to have some discussion with guys that have them already as another toy or know someone who has them installed and those who are interested.

Thanks!

$10k, firm

2014 XMR 1000
– Catvos 4" with Turner axles – new $4000
– Outback Max 31" – New $236ea = $944
– MSA Beadlocks – New $185 = $740
– Elka Stage 4 – New $3000
– VForceJohn Primary Clutch & Maverick Belt – new $650
– Iron Baltic plastic skids – new $535
– Modified SYATV Snorkel – New $200
– 1/4" Amsteel Blue Synthetic Winch Line – New $75
– VisionX Light Bar and Backup Lights – new $700
– BRP hand warmers – New $150
– Boss Audio – New $250
– 2up seat – New $550
– BRP Trunk (like new, not shown.) – New $430
– More stuff I’ve forgotten.
It’s never been swamped or even deep enough to need snorkels.
Mostly I ride 2up with my wife, she has a back injury so I’m not into crazy riding. A lot of trail riding, though I ain’t gonna lie, we have taken it in the mud and even gotten it stuck, more than once.

Bike’s been ridden, but well cared for.

I have a 2014 can am XMR, was riding one afternoon and my brakes just went out on the handlebar. The feature where you can pull the handle bar in to start the bike in any gear also went away. Any suggestions as to why this happened???