All posts by dstech

Greasing Bendix Shafts and flywheel/starter gears and minor issues with both

I have a question for anyone who serviced ATV’s specifically the side where the pull starter (on older models) and/or the starter system in general (all models).

I have a 2006 Polaris 450 and I go through a starter about once a year. I was told by the local dealer that starters should have a life of at least 3 years when all is good with seals, etc. Basically moisture or water gets in the starter itself or condenses somehow and the needle bearings seize up on the output shaft to the point that I get a solenoid click. Alternately it could be constantly turning when running via the flywheel with no engagement (see next paragraph for description of issue).

The person I bought it from says this has been a common problem for them, hence I got it with that problem along with a broken recoil which I rebuilt and starter was replaced. I always seat the pull handle properly before a run or when storing.

I recently had the starter freeze up on me again and it seems moisture got in the starter somehow even though I do not go through mud or water at all, mostly dry trail riding. No dust getting in the case, just water. I can only assume rain is the issue as I do not have a dry storage place. It is frustrating but that issue is for another thread. Upon inspection, most or all the grease was gone after a year. Maybe more grease next time…;)

What I am asking is should I regularly grease the Bendix shafts (both sides) and also should I grease all the teeth there is (starter, Bendix drive, flywheel) and how often and how much? What grease should I use, waterproof or my main Lucas Xtra Heavy Duty (green kind)? It is safe to use as a dielectric, and works well for me on practically everything. But Polaris makes a special grease for this side as I found by searching grease. Always something special from them lol. Should that be used or does it matter? Service manual seems vague on this issue of lubing the starter side…

Painted and Wrapped My Exhaust

The stock heat shielding wrap on my exhaust was getting pretty bad and the cans were getting stained from the red dirt where I ride. So I decided remove the factory wrap and go with DEI Titanium wrap and figured while the exhaust was off I would go ahead and sandblast everything and use some Rustoleum 2000° ceramic header paint.

I used one good coat of primer and three thin coats of flat black. This paint needs to go through a couple heat cycles to fully cure and does let off some smoke so doing that step outside was the best option. The wrap was easy enough and instead of the stainless ties that people complain about because they can’t get them tight enough I used stainless wire and it came out with a cleaner look.

One thing that’s not shown in the photos is the two layers of heat tape I used on the CVT exhaust.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT4AKC…ing=UTF8&psc=1

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honda atv 4wd

new to these forums. I have a very limited budjet, 2000.00 to spend on an atv at this time. is there an model and year I should be looking for that would be a good choice to start with? I need all wheel drive. I know asking a lot for a little money. I can fix most things my self. just looking for some models and years that have proven them selves as good atvs. thankyou, rich

Adjusting the handlebars?

My 2014 550 handlebars are to upright from dealer. I took the plastic cover off and noticed the handlebar has two etched lines on one side of each clamp. Are they alignment marks? I only want to lower them, not shift them, but I’m wondering if the markings are supposed to be in line with the edge of the clamps.

Good tire in deep snow, not pure mud tire…

Wanting some tires for MN winters for deep snow riding. No tracks. I do Not want a pure mud tire (Outlaw/Silverback/Terminator/etc.) because I want to use it in the summer somewhat even though I know pure mud tires are best in deep snow. I don’t ride mud, mainly because there isn’t any around unless I trailer my ATV an hour+

This isn’t your normal "which tire" thread…

I am leaning towards STI HD3 rims in a 14". Also, as an FYI I have 4 Rhino axles and a 2" HL bracket lift I can install again but don’t currently have on. I have a Dalton 800M mudder clutch kit also so weight is not as much as an issue. I would like to Not get beadlock rims due to weight.

so what I am needing…
1. At least 1"+ of tread depth, preferably 1.5"ish tread depth
2. 14" rims size
3. Close to $100 a tire as opposed to $200
4. 28"-30" definitely no smaller than 28" and definitely no larger than 30". I am more leaning towards a 28" that runs at least true to size, if I ran a 30" I wouldn’t care if it ran large or small.

What I want…
1. rim guard on tire (wouldn’t make or break the sale)
2. smooth even at low speeds (again wont make or break sale)
3. tires with a paddle ability (tread similar to a Outlaw, or even Bear claw HTR but with much deeper depth or Mud Lite XTR but again with much deeper tread depth)
4. Tires that are on the lighter side weight wise

I have had Outlaw2’s 29.5", Zilla’s 30", Mudweisers 27", and currently use 26" Bighorn 2.0’s (since before they came on mavericks) and these are no good in snow, lol.

In the summer I ride mainly hard pack, rarely ever any mud.

I am somewhat eyeballing Swamp lites because of tread depth and price but they don’t appear to have a good paddle ability and I have read they wear out fast………SO……..I am looking for ANY and ALL suggestions that fit my criteria. I Love the looks of Terminators and they would fit my criteria but I am not willing to pay so much for ATV tires since I feel they are ALL over priced already.

Anybody rigged up a reverse light?

I have a 2014 Rancher AT (ESP) and I was wanting to wire up a small LED light to come on when in Reverse gear. Is there any wire that’s hot when in Reverse gear that I could tap into? I know I could just wire up a switch and turn the light on when I needed to backup or hookup a trailer in the dark. That would work fine, but it would be really cool if it would just come on when I shifted into R.

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