Honda 500fa1 help
My bike threw the rod out of the crankcase and I have a 2000 450es engine laying around. Would it be a pretty easy engine swap? Any advice would be appreciated.
I have 2003 Rubicon that I was rebuilding the front end (ball joints, wheel bearings, front diff bearings). I had the honda shop rebuild the front diff. I put it all back together and it was extremely difficult to steer and would pop while turning. I thought the axles were bad so I bought a set of axles. It made it a little easier to steer but it was still hard to steer and popping while turning. Long story short, I narrowed it down to the front diff. I took it back to the honda shop and they told me that when they took it apart the first time for the rebuild it didn’t have any oil in it and it had water in it and that it was really rusted on the inside. They are telling me that the cam follower set/gear had so much rust on it that it pitted the metal and that is what is causing the popping. That part is $200+.
It seems to me like the limited slip is not working. But the shop is saying that this is the problem.
I have a 2014 outlander xt and I can’t get it to switch from 2×4 to 4×4. I’ve already replaced the actuator and I manually put it in 4×4 mode when I was putting it back on. But still can’t get it to switch back and fourth. How do I tell if the switch itself is bad or not? I know it’s not the fuse because the 12volt plug and winch works and it’s all on the same fuse. Just not sure how to check the switch.
New to Can-Am, I have put 100 miles 16hrs on my 2016 Outlander 570L after 2 hrs the squeal started and is increasing, took it back to the dealership they say everything checks out and this is normal but mine is alittle louder then most. Makes it difficult to hunt on riding around on this damn thing sounding like a fire truck siren. I’ve read a ton on this but can’t get a clear resolution, it’s still under warranty and any after market parts will void that according to the dealership. Any help on this would be hugely appreciated!!
New to Can-Am, I have put 100 miles 16hrs on my 2016 Outlander 570L after 2 hrs the squeal started and is increasing, took it back to the dealership they say everything checks out and this is normal but mine is alittle louder then most. Makes it difficult to hunt on riding around on this damn thing sounding like a fire truck siren. I’ve read a ton on this but can’t get a clear resolution, it’s still under warranty and any after market parts will void that according to the dealership. Any help on this would be hugely appreciated!!
I was trying to bleed my brakes because my left hand brake doesn’t do anything. When I opened the master cylinder to see if there is enough brake fluid I notice the diaphragm and wanted to know what its purpose is. I wanted to know how the diaphragm reservoir is supposed to be installed. It looks like brake fluid is under and in the diaphragm. How is this diaphragm suppose to be installed? Should I take it out fill the brake fluid to the max line and than put it back in?
Hello everybody.
In norway we have this EU ruls so my polaris have Max speed 40km/ph.
What can i do to cuit this electric barrier?
I need also electric datasheet?
Hello everybody.
In norway we have this EU ruls so my polaris have Max speed 40km/ph.
What can i do to cuit this electric barrier?
I need also electric datasheet?
I have a Muzzy exhaust on my 2010 renegade. I was out riding and blew out the end cap and spark arrestor last week. I was able to find the end cap but not the spark arrestor. Does anyone have a thought on what i could do? Or better yet a spark arrestor for sale for this unit? It would be a massive help if someone could dig one out otherwise i may have to get a new unit.
Also I bought the bike used and therefore I dont know if i have a full exhaust including headers or not. In 2010 did they offer just a slip on for this bike? any thoughts on how i can tell if i have after market headers or not?
