yesterday i added a little collant to my Scrambler and noticed a buzzer installed on left side, just behind the fat fuel hose that goes from cap to tank. The marking is "Floyd bell", "beep tone".
I Wonder when it goes on? When there is some check engine code, overheating? It is not mentioned in my user manual
Mr. Rpm is shipping back my motor soon and since it will be a basically brand new upfitted, dry engine I’m curious about going with regular oil or synthetic? Whichever I chose I will stick with for the new life of the motor. Had them rebuild my 650 to an 860 BBK with performance cams, Maverick heads, oil filter relocate and high flow water pump.
Been reading the archives and can’t reallt find an answer.
Had a 2004 Rincon given to me and it starts and iles fine. Once you try to rev it, it sputters and dies. To me it looks like a carb rebuild but, others tell me about the oil o-ring seals that need replaced.
It starts and idles fine but once in gear it has no throttle power.In Nutrual I can’t even rev the engine before it sputters and dies.
Been reading the archives and can’t reallt find an answer.
Had a 2004 Rincon given to me and it starts and iles fine. Once you try to rev it, it sputters and dies. To me it looks like a carb rebuild but, others tell me about the oil o-ring seals that need replaced.
It starts and idles fine but once in gear it has no throttle power.In Nutrual I can’t even rev the engine before it sputters and dies.
I have been reading that your susposed to use lithium soap grease for the zerks and a few other lubricating points. I have been using Mobile 1 synthetic for wheel bearings on my boat trailer . Anybody know if this would compatable for 2016 Grizzly ? Thanks Don
Hey Gang, I have a stock Yammy rear cargo box on my ’16 Grizzly 700 and I’m hoping to somehow add a gun mount. But the gun scabbards and mounts that I’ve seen (Kolpin) use the rear cargo rack to bolt to the machine, inaccessible cuz of the cargo box. Looking for ideas. Thx!
is there a way to raise the idle up just a touch on my bike
i think the decompression valve is making a tick tick nose and its driving me nuts lol
thanks
g
Hi all. I’m new to the site and hopefully can get some help. I have a Can- Am Outlander 1000 ,2012. I shattered the front piston and wiped out the crankshaft. I rebuilt the entire engine. I put a new crank and rebuild both heads two new cylinders and pistons with rings. A complete gasket kit.Went for a ride and all went well except I did not use locktite on magneto and the bolts came loose and destroyed the magneto. Changed magneto and drained oil and filter. Filter housing was packed with shavings from magneto. Flushed engine with diesel fuel twice and again with oil. Test ride is good Engine is strong,smooth and very responsive. I rode for an hour and engine went into limp mode saying low oil. Checked oil and oil is coming out of dipstick tube. I let engine cool and checked oil again,still overflow.Started engine for a few seconds and shut off and oil level was good. Rode home and engine went into limp mode again. Got home slow and checked oil again. Overflowing. Let sit over nite and checked in morning. Still over flowing. Start engine for a second and oil was good.i know it’s a long story but I wanted you guys to have all the facts.Dont know what to even look for. I’ll take all advice I can get. Thanks.
I had some problems with cam tensioner and I am not sure how to fix it. The atv was making a clicking noise wasn’t sure what it was so just kept driving it after watching videos on youtube and thinking it was normal. Well was driving it and the machine says low oil. So I shut it off and looked around. Oil was draining out from somewhere. Well come to find out the green part I have circled fell out. Then the red part fell out also. I decided to try an fix it (not knowing what I was doing). I got the red part screwed back in, but it is not far enough in to get the green part with spring on it screwed back on. This is all on the back cylinder so it is hard to get to. Is there any way to get the red part screwed back in. How tight does it need to be. Anything else I need to know? Any input is appreciated. This is on my bosses Can Am 570xt with 2000 miles not my 570.
rebuilt rotax motor- runs fine but low oil light comes on after warm up- crankcase is full in fact oil level increases to top of fill tube? where is oil level sensor in relationship to dipstick marks? how many return paths for oil from heads back to crankcase? I am stumped- any ideas?
