I would like to find out the correct length or method to set the shift adjustment rod. The repair manual stated to adjust its length for smooth shifting. There has to be more to it than that. I believe my quad is not fully engaging into the various gears which is causing clicking noises under low speed deceleration (engine braking), as well more noise and a sudden loss of power to all wheels while on the trail. The issue seams to be more prevalent when under loads like climbing hills and maneuvering thru rocky terrain. I will be inspecting the clutch system this weekend to rule out issues there. Any advise??

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I am working on my 1984 trx 200. I am trying right now to solve why I am not getting spark. But the bike isnt in neutral right now, I was wondering how you bypass the neutral safety switch, so that I can rule that out as to why I am not getting spark.

6 months old took it to the dealer they replaced valve cover and gasket. Its only been about 3 to 4 weeks and it’s leaking again? Anyone have this happen. If so should I buy aftermarket covers or try the stock ones again?

I have $350 and I’m not sure if I want to get a Big Gun Evo exhaust, or a GoPro Hero 4 Silver.

My 4 wheeler doesn’t like to idle under water and I was told that a Big Gun or HMF exhaust would help. I do a lot of river and pond riding, not much mud so its mostly just water I’m riding in. When I go slow or let off the gas while my exhaust is even somewhat under water the engine seems to die. My atv has shut off under water 2 times but i installed a valve on my exhaust that immediately closes when the atv is shut off. so im not worried about water getting into the engine.

If anybody thinks it just wouldn’t be worth it to get the exhaust I’ll be getting the GoPro, but if you think the exhaust would help then I’d get that.

Thanks in advance

I’m a new owner of a 2006 CanAm 400 Outlander HO as of last winter.

I have two questions:

1. The prior owner always used AMSOIL synthetic and changed oil faithfully. I put about 700 miles on it and it was time to change oil. He must have really tightened the oil plug with an impact as I about broke my arms getting it loose. I couldn’t get any power tools on it easily as the plow frame is mounted under the nut so you have to come at it from an angle. I did end up breaking it loose, changing filter, oil, getting a few metal shavings out of the nut magnet, and cleaned everything and put it back together with new synthetic oil. I used Castrol edge O-40 as that is what my local retailer had at the moment.

I assume I’m not the only one who fights the issue of changing the oil with the plow frame mounted, and I’m assuming folks don’t remove the plow frame to change the oil and remount it every time?

I’m thinking a swivel adapter and an impact might have helped there but when the socket is coming in on an angle on the nut I hate to use power tools as you can’t feel when it is getting stripped as the socket slides down the nut.

2nd question, front brakes, left side is metal on metal no pads left. Right side has some life yet in pads but I want to change both. I ordered a package deal that has pads and rotors all in one in case the rotor needs to be replaced as well. I watched the youtube video on now to do front brakes and learned a lot there. The one where the guy was able to do it without removing the caliper from its mount was really helpful and saved my trying to break loose those T bolts that hold the caliper box to the rotor mount.

So the question is, how do I get the old rotors off? Does tie rod come off, strut come off, then slide rotor down over axle all the way off? Is it better somehow to pull the axle out of the tranny and slide it off that way? I don’t want to open up those sealed CV boots.

AS a followup question, I note when I ride and when my teen boy rides that we find it natural to grab the front brake lever all the time. I keep forgetting to use the foot brake (rear) I’m sure if I used the rear brake all the time then I would save the fronts. But it is awkward to always have the foot on the rear brake and it seems like in emergency stops the hands seem quicker to grab the brake than the foot is to jump on the foot brake.

Does everyone else use the foot brake all the time and try not to use the hand brakes?

ON my foot brake, even if I push it slowly, the back wheels lock up and I skid which is another reason why I find it harder to control the rear brake.

Why didn’t they just put two hand brakes, one for front and one for rear, or at least tie in the single hand brake lever so that it tries to apply braking to both front and rears?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Hey guys, so I asked about the demand drive fluid, and turns out it goes into the front diff. Thanks for that!!

However, I am not sure about the rear diff and transmission. Does the transmission and rear diff drain on the same plug? or do you need to drain oil from transmission, close it back up, then rear diff?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AYY27U…I1SF9FI522RDFM

it is the 2015 polaris sports man 2 up 570 motor. And would I need 1 or 2 bottles.

Looking for a back rest that attaches to the rear rack of a Traxter MAX.

I have a Polaris Sportsman 550 EFI,2011.

When I am in 2×4 H, along a dirt/rock road then go into a trail that is narrow, rocky, trees etc, I gear down to 4×4 low.

A couple minutes later and thruout the trail my machine just loses power and stops. I then just have to put it in park and turn the key to start up again.

I have 2 suggestions on why so far:

1- if I have extra keys on the key chain, the weight of the swinging of the key will turn the ignition off

2- something about the wires to the run/off switch.

Any other suggestions?

Hi, I have a 99 400ex that is running lean or rich, I haven’t checked the plug yet but I want to know what you guys think I should have my carb jets and air screws set at, mods are full white bros exhaust, and a Uni filter. Elevation is 1,168ft