All posts by dstech

trailboss 250 liberated parts

So someone stole my wheels, battery and winch from my trailboss 250.
It’s a 1993 trail boss 250 4×4 2 stroke. When the battery was stolen the theives litterally ripped it out and now I have a red with a white stripe and a connector hanging out from near the battery and a ripped ground wire still half attached to the frame. Where do these wires attach? I’ve looked at diagrams and it doesn’t look like it goes to the battery, so where does it go. I’ve bought new wheels, and tires that are similar but not sure if I can even get it started again with the vandalism that occurred. Why cant thieves just take the whole dam machine so I can claim the insurance instead of buying new parts AGAIN?

2014 Grizzly 700 Lighting/Accessories

Well, I introduced myself a couple weeks back and have been lurking since and catching the Mod bug. Reading, re-reading, researching, shopping, re-re-reading and am now ready to pull the trigger on some lighting and electrical work. Not to mention the Yami HD bumper and Moose rear bumper that I have waiting to put on. This weekend is the beginning of what I fear will be a black hole!

When I purchased my Grizz (lightly used), it already had a winch installed. I plan on adding two light bars, one for the front and one for the rear. Eventually I will wire the rear to turn on when in reverse, as well as be manually switched. For the time being it will only be manually switched. I plan on buying a 12" and 7" Auxbeam. The 12" will go on the front and the 7" will go on the rear. Is a 7" bar overkill for a reverse light? They seem reasonably reliable for what I intend on doing.

I guess to sum up, my question is, should I put a fuse block in? I plan on adding a sound tube/amp eventually. So I would be looking at having 5-ish accessories pulling off of the battery. I’m pretty sure I just convinced myself that I need it. Just want some input I suppose.

Thanks in advance for the help and thanks for having me!

2014 Grizzly 700 Lighting/Accessories

Well, I introduced myself a couple weeks back and have been lurking since and catching the Mod bug. Reading, re-reading, researching, shopping, re-re-reading and am now ready to pull the trigger on some lighting and electrical work. Not to mention the Yami HD bumper and Moose rear bumper that I have waiting to put on. This weekend is the beginning of what I fear will be a black hole!

When I purchased my Grizz (lightly used), it already had a winch installed. I plan on adding two light bars, one for the front and one for the rear. Eventually I will wire the rear to turn on when in reverse, as well as be manually switched. For the time being it will only be manually switched. I plan on buying a 12" and 7" Auxbeam. The 12" will go on the front and the 7" will go on the rear. Is a 7" bar overkill for a reverse light? They seem reasonably reliable for what I intend on doing.

I guess to sum up, my question is, should I put a fuse block in? I plan on adding a sound tube/amp eventually. So I would be looking at having 5-ish accessories pulling off of the battery. I’m pretty sure I just convinced myself that I need it. Just want some input I suppose.

Thanks in advance for the help and thanks for having me!

My Honda Rancher 350 will not start

When I first got the four wheeler I just put a new battery in it which was like 3 weeks ago and it ran fine! Until just recently my friend took out the carb to clean it because it had trouble idling, after that it would even turnover it would just keep crank but wouldn’t actually run then 2 days go by and I go to check it then it wouldn’t even start, at all.. someone told me it was the solenoid because I could place a wrench on both of the terminals if the solenoid and it would crank! So I bought another one and it still won’t crank! Another thing I notice is that it’s a electrical shifter on the handle, and the display doesn’t know what gear it’s in but the reverse red light is on and the neutral green light is on idk what’s wrong with it tried everything…and the battery is fully charged so the battery charger says.. please help email me if I do not respond @ justchaseyt@gmail.com , Thank You!

Clutching 450L

I recently purchased a 2016 450L and so far I’m very impressed, but I hate the Trail Wolf tires in came with. I have never experienced a tire that will through mud as violently as these tires. You can be ridin g a trail with seemingly no mud, and these tires will cover your back and half the machine. I was recently riding with friends who had Zillas and Mud Bugs on their machines, no such problem.

I would like to replace my tires with a slightly larger set for no reason other than the stock 25s look small on the machine. I’ve been looking for clutch kits for the 450L but have yet to find anything. Does anyone have any experience with clutching a 450L yet? I’m looking to go with 26" or 27" at most. Probably Zillas.

14 Ranger 900xp Poor Idle, Worse Throttle

New to the forum, Hi everybody! I am in need of some assistance. I’m not new to repairing power sports but, this one is kicking my a$$.

14 Polaris Ranger 900xp, single electronic throttle body. Died while riding, wouldn’t start. Wasn’t in water or driven hard as I am told. Spark is very good, was a little low on compression but should have still been able to start, (read on). Checked fuel pressure, was high by about 2 psi. Acted like it wanted to start but wouldn’t. Didn’t think fuel pressure was a problem but, know that it seems to be an issue with these so replaced the fuel pump and filter and checked the vent. Fuel does not smell bad. Fuel pressure is right on now. Still no start. Checked valve adjustment, had some pretty tight valves so did a valve adjustment. That helped the compression but still not to standard and still wouldn’t start. Next did a top end overhaul, replated cylinders and new pistons, rings, gaskets, the works. all back together, check valve timing and clearance, double check valve timing and clearance, all is good. Now compression is good, fuel pressure is good, spark is good, still has the same issue. Check oil pressure, it’s good.

Still wants to start but won’t. Don’t like to use the stuff but gave it a shot of starting fluid and it fired up. Now it will start every time when I hit the key without the fluid but, idles very poorly and when given throttle it will start to pick up rpm then bog terribly until it dies unless I back off throttle to idle. This is under a no power situation. I haven’t tried to drive it, I don’t think it will pull itself.

TPS is integrated into the throttle body and is non replaceable as a separate component. MAP sensor was replaced prior to coming to me but, I have taken it out and sprayed it clean with carb spray.

I have tried to narrow down possibilities to (1. a sheared rotor key. Although I don’t think this is the issue as when the rotor is on the TDC mark, the piston is at the top of the cylinder when looking through the spark plug hole. (2. a bad throttle body, (TPS) or other internal component. (3. a bad ECU. The trouble I’m having with the two later thoughts is that it has not thrown a code at all since the start.

I have checked, cleaned and greased several of the electrical connections. Checked relays and fuses. I’m working out of a 13-14 Ranger RZR manual that seems to be geared more to the RZR as it does not cover the single throttle body so I don’t have the specs to check it.

I think I covered everything but am most certainly open to questions, and even more open to any ideas any of you might have. Thanks!

Polaris is On Fire – Literally

Not wanting to slur our favorite competitor but…check this link out. Seems that Polaris has a few problems with uuuhhh…fire. So, if anyone is on the fence about buying a Pol-anus instead of a Honda, maybe you better make sure you have a fire extinguisher on-board at all times. Sounds like you’ll eventually need it. Just saying…

This ATV Maker Is About to Crash and Burn Again — The Motley Fool