I have a 95 big bear with a mikuni carburetor and unfortunately the previous owner tightened the fuel mixture screw down to the most lean setting and I ended up stripping the head off of the screw trying to free it up. Is there any way to play with the mixture by raising the main jet, I’m not sure if you can raise and lower the main jet on these carbs. When going from an idle to a pin, the quad begins to die and if I stay on it the quad eventually just quits, not 100% sure but that normally points toward lean. If anyone can help me out here I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
I have a 95 big bear with a mikuni carburetor and unfortunately the previous owner tightened the fuel mixture screw down to the most lean setting and I ended up stripping the head off of the screw trying to free it up. Is there any way to play with the mixture by raising the main jet, I’m not sure if you can raise and lower the main jet on these carbs. When going from an idle to a pin, the quad begins to die and if I stay on it the quad eventually just quits, not 100% sure but that normally points toward lean. If anyone can help me out here I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
Found my oil in my rear diff had water in it so about 3 months ago I replaced the oil and just checked it and found yet again it was watery. Thinking I’ll just do differential seals as that is what normally allows this. but first wanted some input, the diff doesn’t leak a drop from anywhere. It is a possibility it is allowing water in at the differential connection to the swingarm and where the housing bolts together. I don’t think I’ve ever gone past the diff vent tube in water so that probably isn’t an issue, if I do seals I’ll be routing the hose up high to rule that out. If anyone has some ideas it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
Found my oil in my rear diff had water in it so about 3 months ago I replaced the oil and just checked it and found yet again it was watery. Thinking I’ll just do differential seals as that is what normally allows this. but first wanted some input, the diff doesn’t leak a drop from anywhere. It is a possibility it is allowing water in at the differential connection to the swingarm and where the housing bolts together. I don’t think I’ve ever gone past the diff vent tube in water so that probably isn’t an issue, if I do seals I’ll be routing the hose up high to rule that out. If anyone has some ideas it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
Looking through the 2016 Honda Sales brochure …. specifically for the TRX500 Foreman.
There is no mention of what model the ‘codes’ are for …. eg. FM1, FM5, etc.
I’ve been quoted a price on each of these models, but I’m unable to see what TRX500 they refer to.
Any clarification would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
MM
We are trying to plan our first trip to Hatfield McCoy for a weekend in April. We are coming from Michigan. There may be around 12-16 of us. Can anyone recommend a hotel or lodge? We are mostly couples who would like individual rooms. We would like one with a pub, or within close walking distance to a pub. We will be riding SxS’s. Might be a couple of two up quads. We do not want to trailer the machines to the trails. I have read quite a few threads, but can’t seem to get good info on lodging of this type. Am I asking for too much?
Thanks in advance, Steve
I installed the "deluxe fairing" accessory today. I purchased this so I could install the rear view mirrors and have a low windshield on my Can Am.
I regret to say this accessory is not up to Can Am standards in my view. Here’s my observations:
1. The sheet instructions coming with the kit are quite poor. Both the diagrams and verbage needs improvement. I’ve written a lot of instructions in my career. It almost seems like these instructions were written by a CAD tech rolling three dimensional views around on the computer screen and then copy-paste. I request the Can Am technical writers get off their chairs and out to the shop to photograph this thing going together. It would be quite helpful. The diagrams are poor. You don’t need much verbage with good photos.
2. Too many parts. It is a fairing for goodness sakes. The stock "brush guard" I took off is one piece. This thing has over 20 items in the box, including fasteners.
3. Speaking of fasteners, every one seemingly used a different tool. We’ve got our Torx in two sizes, our socket hex head, our Phillips, our 5.5 metric socket, and our push clips.
4. The over center clamps holding the fairing to the handlebar mounts are too weak and don’t stay in their plastic slot very well. They splay when you clamp the fairing in place and pull out of the slots.
5. I get the thing mounted to the handlebars, and the last piece called the center handlebar cover I snap on the bars won’t fit. If a Can Am tech assembled one of these, they would surly recommend snapping the handlebar center cover on first, and then mounting the handlebar clamps. That way the fairing would be centered on the bars. So I take it off and do it again. I was off about 3/8". Dumb.
6. By the way, the center handlebar cover does not accommodate the Montana GPS unit like the stock brush guard does. Now I gotta figure out something for that.
7. Cup holders! What on earth for? There are two pieces easily eliminated. I hope I didn’t pay extra for those. I’m going to keep my hands on the grips, thank you.
Maybe Can Am monitors this website for customer feedback. I would if I was them.
So my work Atv has been parked in the shop for 2 days and today I noticed a puddle of oil beneath it. When I bought it 4 mounts ago I noticed that where the rear drive shaft comes outta the motor it’s leaking. The weird thing is that it wasn’t very severe until last oil change. I put ampsoil 10w40in it and am wondering if that is the problem. I looked at bossbearing and found a engine seal kit for it. I’m wondering if anyone knows if I can buy just the reAr driveshaft seal anywhere or if it’s the oil I have in it? If no one knows or recommends it I will buy the entire kit.