Some have recommended buying used shocks to get high performance shocks for a good price. Unfortunately very few used shocks are listed as compatible on a Grizzly 700. On Ebay they usually don’t list the specs. say what make and model they were made for which seems . Supposedly some snow mobile shocks are a good option but finding the specs for the shocks is challenging. I can’t even find the specs for Grizzly’s.

What should I look for? I imagine the most important feature is length. Is longer than stock fine but shorter unacceptable?

Weight capacity is important but since good shocks can be rebuilt and re-valved, maybe this isn’t an issue. Probably a shock made for more weight is better than one made for less.

Is there a source of this info?

By the way, I’m considering getting adjustable shocks like Elka 4’s for a 2016 Grizzly that I plan to get this Friday (July 1, 2016)

Thanks!

We’re heading up to Iron Mtn. Mich, from the 9th to the 15th. Looking for information on good trails to ride in that area, weather in Wi side or the UP. We plan to try and find waterfalls and hiking in the area also. Any info appreciated!
Thanks.

Hey guys. Just bought my first Polaris atv, I got a sportsman 570 sp and I love it. I go to the river a lot and go to Colorado once a year and ride trails. I’m looking for a good front rack stereo setup or to build my own if you guys have some pointers on the best options for that. I have been looking at the power rail bar as you can add lights and speakers to it and a power box to hold and charge your phone all at once. Also have been looking at the boss audio systems and atv trail tunes but they seem higher priced. Any input on what setup to run would be awesome.

This is going to be a long post, so bear with me…..New to the forum and this is my first post. I recently picked up a 2006 Grizzly 660 for cheap. Owner said it ran but could use a top end rebuild. I rode it and agreed on the price.

Ordered a replacment 660 cylinder, piston, rings and other required items. It had a 686 big bore but I want to go back to factory displacment. Got the head and cylinder off then ordered new valves, valve seals and a Raptor center intake valve spring to use with the Hot Cam Mudbuster cam it came with.

Got the head rebuilt ready for install. Then comes something I feared…..I checked the play in the crankshaft connecting rod. Plenty lf side to side play and it has play up and down. Did different methods of testing it and it for sure needs replacing. So I ordered a Wiseco crankshaft kit and removed the engine from the frame…..easier than I thought it would be.

Now my problem, I grew up riding and racing dirtbikes. Rebuilt a fair amount of 2 and 4 stroke motors. But the dirtbike motors have far less to them then this thing.

So I’m wondering if it’s possible to simply split the cases to get to the crank. Or do I have to strip everything off the engine to get to the point of splitting the cases? I haven’t really inspected the motor as I just pulled it out and the wife wants to go to dinner. I do have a Clymer (? Spelling ?) service manual for the atv. Wish it was a Factory Yamaha manual, but it was given to me with the atv.

Im not really worried about removing the crank or installing the new one, I watched and ready plenty of methods on that. I’m just not wanting to have to remove everything from the engine unless I have to. So what do you guys say? And sorry for the long first post.

I have a 2010 420 fuel injected 4×4 which runs great, except after I have ridden it a while and I go to restart it. First let me say 2 things: 1) that it ONLY has 225 actual miles on it and 122 hours, hasn’t been in deep mud/water, looks showroom new. 2) And this is an intermittent problem! When I go to restart it, I turn the key on and the fuel pump does not run for the normal ~3 seconds.*Trouble shooting thus far: I put a multi-meter on the wires to the fuel pump, and when it does runs it has 11.25 volts during the first 3 sec before stopping and when I hit the starter the engine starts right up. After starting it reads 13.5 volts. (that tells me the charging system is working properly) When I don’t hear the fuel pump start the voltage is 9 volts or less. I’m at a loss. Thanks for your help.

New to the forum so forgive me if this is not the right place to ask. I have a TRX300FW that has been leaking oil from the head, BAD. So I pulled it apart only to discover the previous abuser had stripped most of the head bolts where they run into the cylinder. They are trashed, so I need a new cylinder. I bought a NOS cylinder off EBAY, still in the factory coating. Everything lined up beautiful, only AFTER I put the new piston in place and mounted the cylinder over the piston I notice it says 246 cc on the side not 281 cc like my original. I am guessing I have been sold a 1986 TRX250 cylinder and not a TRX300 cylinder, but the bore is the same, the standard 74 mm, and everything else looks the same. What is the difference? And would I be OK just going ahead and using the 250 cylinder? Loosing a touch of power is not an issue. This thing just hauls me two miles deep in the woods to my treestand.

1988 TRX300, 1993 TRX300, 199? TRX300FW
Cully in North Carolina

I added a Moose cable saver on the brides 570 Polaris 3500 winch.
You can also see how I bent the cotter pin, I also added a cable thimble
between the hook and the rope.
That hook will never come off.

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Hi guys I am new to the form and looking for some help. Recently bought a 2013 outlander 650 xmr with around 1400 miles. Ok, so now to the problem, only when I am in high gear the quad makes an extremely loud whirring/ squealing noise. It does not make it when in low. It also only makes the noise while I am accelerating. If I let off the gas it goes away. I took the tranny apart and found black goopy grease in it, replaced all bearings and seals as well as the pinion bearing and the high gear itself. After going through all of this the noise is still the same. Considering taking it to the dealer at this point but they want to charge $90 to even look at it. Any help is greatly appreciated. I will try to upload a video soon
Thanks again

Does anyone know if there’s a diagram somewhere online of how the oil flows in the G1 V-Twins ?
I’ve looked around but maybe I’m not using the right keywords or something .

Hi,
Wanted to see what others think of the rear diff on this 2010 grizzly 700.

To me it looks like something is wrong, but not sure how severe.

The owner said that the previous owner may have backed too far into the trailer, hence the cracked light as well.

Should I be concerned?

Ive been looking through this other thread talking about using a brace.

Thanks for all your help and feedback

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