I just bought a HD8 base and was just wondering if it was just a switch I needed to be able to disable the diff lock or is it more? Thanks.

Hello all,

I recently came into a grizzly 350 needing a fix up. I seem to have fixed all of the issues except the rear brakes. They were engaged and locked. I finally was able to get everything apart and I have found the issue but I am not sure exactly what is causing it but I have a rough idea.

I have attached a photo to help show what I am talking about.

Basically from what i have found (correct me if i am wrong) when the rear brake is pressed, #1 (brake cable) pulls #2 (the bracket attached to the brake cam) which turns #3 (the brake cam) which pushed the brake pads up and down against the drum slowing the wheel.

Now when I engage the rear brakes the brake cam (#3) engages but when I let off the brake it will not disengage.

Now when I removed the drum it looked as if the drum had never been removed since it was manufactured. I have removed and cleaned almost everything so far but the brake cam.

Now I am thinking their may just be a lot of dust build up causing the cam to not want to release and it just needs to be cleaned up. But what has me puzzled, if that is the case, are the springs attached to the pads the only thing causing the brakes to disengage, and they are supposed to be pulling the brakes back down rotating the cam back. Or is their an ajustment I need to make on the bracket attached to the brake cam.

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Hello,

I recently purchased a 2007 Polaris ATV 500 EFI HO. I purchased a new ECM to see if it would resolve no fuel problems after riding for an hour and then trying to restart. However, the new one is showing a check engine light and will not start.

I sent the message with the quotations at the end to the person whom I purchased the ECM from. However, perhaps one of you are aware of the 4012160 ECM and if the 4012443 is the correct replacement. This is my first ATV so it is a learning experience. From what I have read it looks like the ECM memory can be erased by disconnecting the battery so I will try that in the morning with the new one and see what happens. I may have done something when trying to prime the new fuel pump that caused the check engine light. Luckily since it runs with the old ECM the new pump is fine. I changed out too many parts at once but was getting frustrated with the problem and not being able to ride (seemed like the old ECM or fuel pump may have been heating up after riding for a while).

Thanks,
Dan

Note I sent to the seller . . .

"I am having problems with the control module that you sent me. When I install 4012443 I get a check engine error and a weird BLINK code of 74 which is not supposed to exist. There is no spark and it will not start. I checked that a couple of times – 7 blinks, pause, and then 4 blinks. I get the 61 after that ending the check. So, I installed the old ECM (4012160) which has always worked except for the starting problem after running for an hour or so. It fired right up. So next I reinstalled the new one again and same deal – check engine code and no spark. I then put the old one on again and it fired right up.

I am not sure what to do. Is there a way to reset the check engine light so that the ECM would do a fresh check and attempt to start? It turns over with the check engine light on but there is no spark. I will try the new one once more in the morning but I doubt that it is going to work. I have looked all over the internet for my existing part number 4012160 but cannot find anything on that. The one you sent me is the correct one according to Polaris OEM parts. Maybe someone at Polaris MFG knows about the 4012160 and if it is unique for some reason.

Please let me know what you think that I should do. I can send you a video of the BLINK pattern if that would help but I’m pretty sure that I am reading it right and it is a 74. However, I will go through that again in the morning."

Well I managed to get 250 miles on my 2015 Outlander Max 650 before whacking a rock. The impact sheared off one of the lower bash plate bolts. The Ricochet’s absorbed most of it, but frame under the bash plate has bent in slightly. I am referring the area just at or above where the bottom bash plate bolts are located.

On one side I can run my finger between the A-Arm and the frame (again about an inch up from the bash plate bolt) with little contact, the other side its a squeeze. Took the digital caliper to the good side, A-Arm to outside (front) of bash plate @.081, bad side .74. So it is definitely bent in. (measurement taken with plastic bash cover removed, so just to the outside of the frame).

So the question is now what? Can this be repaired? Does it need to be? What else should I measure to see what’s out of whack? Looking for suggestions.

It seems to ride Just fine..Maybe a slight pull in the steering?? But I remember thinking it was pulling before the hit.

Thanks in Advance..

I need a picture of the plugs that go into the CDI box.

Or if you know where the wires go I would sure appreciate it.

There’s a 4 wire connector and a two wire connector.

Thanks

Hello. Our 2014 Rancher 420 was running fine until it got dunked in a creek. Water got in the engine, turning the oil white.
We drained the water out the muffler by lifting the machine on its tail.
Then dropped it down, tried to start it, but it was locked up. We then realized water was still in the cylinder. Spark plug removed, more water drained. Air filter removed, water drained from the air box.
We next "ran" the engine to blow water out the spark plug hole. Allowing it to dry a bit we drained the oil, then refilled it with new oil. No oil filter on hand.
After a bit of blowing more water out the spark plug hole we used starter fluid. It did start, and a short time larer it began burninf oil.
After a week of running it, hoping it might clear up, and to save money for its eventual repair, we hired a local dude to take the top end off.
The valves were crusted black. After cleaning, the valves were re-seated with valve grinding compound. New rings installed. (no new gaskets at the local store).
We put the engine back together. It started up imediately, but began to burn oil again.
What should I do?
Thank you. (I ordered a service manual)

My trailer has 12" wheels which are vulnerable because they are so small. I don’t plan on upgrading the wheels or trailer because I like that it folds up nicely for winter storage. (It is a Harbor Freight trailer.) But I am willing to pay for really good tires to avoid problems. I’m wondering if the best tires I’ve found will be a problem because they are ten ply radials so maybe the sidewalls are too stiff.

The tires are ST145R12 LRE 10 PR Kenda Karrier Radial Trailer Tires. The Capacity is 1,520 LBS @ 80 PSI. My trailer plus ATV weigh about 1100 pounds so it is about 550 pounds per tire. Here are what I see as advantages and disadvantages of these tires:

Advantages
Almost run flat because of the ten ply.
Very puncture resistant.
Radials have a smoother ride and stay cooler.
I could use them at a lower pressure to soften the ride.

Concerns
Would the side walls be so stiff that they beat the trailer to death?
Would reducing the tire pressure to about 50 PSI cause them to operate out of their ideal range and cause problems like overheating?

I hope I’m not going crazy. I did start a thread on my Ricochet Skids for my Outlander 650. Where did it go?

Brought home my new baby tonight. Not to many of these left out there. I had to dig a little to find this one.

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This place is a must do awesome rides everywhere[emoji106][emoji106][emoji631]

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