I have a 2014 honda trx 400 I removed my baffle and srock exhuast tup and added an aftermarket tip. Will this damage or harm my quad? So far it seems to run fine idk if I need to jet?

I have a 2014 honda trx 400 I removed my baffle and srock exhuast tup and added an aftermarket tip. Will this damage or harm my quad? So far it seems to run fine idk if I need to jet?

I installed the DX Trigger on my SP 850 with Polaris brush guards today. Before I get into the installation and modifications, I have to say the the DX Trigger is one nice piece of engineering. Everything is first class. Fit, materials and finish far above some of the stuff that is for sale today. I had it on and off the handlebars a couple of dozen times and took it apart two or three times to modify the aluminum lever.

I did take my time, made baby steps and took pictures along the way. My goal was to eliminate any interference and to preserve as much of the original trigger and brush guard arm as possible. As long as I had all the tools out and things taken apart, I replaced my Polaris grips with heated grips.

Onto the pictures starting with the trigger in the box. Adequate packing and rapid shipping.

Here’s a shot of area that requires modification. If you do not have brush guards, the installation is complete. Remove the cap, put the trigger in place, install the cap with the longer screws, go test.

This is a shot of where the lever was rubbing on the guard arm.

I covered the arm with some thin tape to better identify the area and provide camera contrast.

Here’s the area that needs attention

The arm and lever are aluminum. Use a file to remove material. Do not use a grinder.

I also removed some metal from the lever

Red marker to see where it’s rubbing

These shots show how much I removed. Millimeter scale

Trimmed a bit off the heated grips. Took a bit more than needed to give me some adjustment and I needed it when I got in the saddle and the throttle was too low.

DesignsX10 – feel free to use the shots in this thread.

I installed the DX Trigger on my SP 850 with Polaris brush guards today. Before I get into the installation and modifications, I have to say the the DX Trigger is one nice piece of engineering. Everything is first class. Fit, materials and finish far above some of the stuff that is for sale today. I had it on and off the handlebars a couple of dozen times and took it apart two or three times to modify the aluminum lever.

I did take my time, made baby steps and took pictures along the way. My goal was to eliminate any interference and to preserve as much of the original trigger and brush guard arm as possible. As long as I had all the tools out and things taken apart, I replaced my Polaris grips with heated grips.

Onto the pictures starting with the trigger in the box. Adequate packing and rapid shipping.

Here’s a shot of area that requires modification. If you do not have brush guards, the installation is complete. Remove the cap, put the trigger in place, install the cap with the longer screws, go test.

This is a shot of where the lever was rubbing on the guard arm.

I covered the arm with some thin tape to better identify the area and provide camera contrast.

Here’s the area that needs attention

The arm and lever are aluminum. Use a file to remove material. Do not use a grinder.

I also removed some metal from the lever

Red marker to see where it’s rubbing

These shots show how much I removed. Millimeter scale

Trimmed a bit off the heated grips. Took a bit more than needed to give me some adjustment and I needed it when I got in the saddle and the throttle was too low.

DesignsX10 – feel free to use the shots in this thread.

Not starting another thread on where or how to attach straps but seeing if anyone uses cam buckle straps as opposed to ratchet straps. They sure seem to be easier to use.

Not starting another thread on where or how to attach straps but seeing if anyone uses cam buckle straps as opposed to ratchet straps. They sure seem to be easier to use.

I had to change my oil again and up until this change I was using all OEM Honda oil and filters. This time I decided since the engine was broken in I bought an OEM filter from the stealer and I used 10/40 amsoil synthetic motor oil instead of the non sync Honda oil. I ran the quad tonearm up the oil then drained it, changed the filter, put new gasket on the drain plug. The filter says "this side out on it" so I kept that side out even though my manual shows the filter going in the other way but it would not fit even if I tried to put it in the other way. I filled it up with the recommended amount of oil that the manual says to and ran it for about 10 minutes. The manual says to check oil by not screwing the dipstick back in, just pushing in until it stops and pull.out to check. I dont get any oil on the dipstick when I just push it in. If I let it run for 10 minutes and then screw it in and unscrew it and check it i t shows full but not if I just push it in until it stops. When I open up the oil filter cover oil poursnout of it and when I check the fill spout there is oil right up to just under the threads of the cap.
Could I have been given a defective oil filter from the dealer that isn’t working and not allowing oil to flow properly? It was working perfectly before I chsnged the oil which is why I think it may be a defective oil filter. Any other ideas? Maybe my oil pump just happened to go bad. How hard is it to change an oil pump? Maybe the pressure release valve is stuck open as well?

I had to change my oil again and up until this change I was using all OEM Honda oil and filters. This time I decided since the engine was broken in I bought an OEM filter from the stealer and I used 10/40 amsoil synthetic motor oil instead of the non sync Honda oil. I ran the quad tonearm up the oil then drained it, changed the filter, put new gasket on the drain plug. The filter says "this side out on it" so I kept that side out even though my manual shows the filter going in the other way but it would not fit even if I tried to put it in the other way. I filled it up with the recommended amount of oil that the manual says to and ran it for about 10 minutes. The manual says to check oil by not screwing the dipstick back in, just pushing in until it stops and pull.out to check. I dont get any oil on the dipstick when I just push it in. If I let it run for 10 minutes and then screw it in and unscrew it and check it i t shows full but not if I just push it in until it stops. When I open up the oil filter cover oil poursnout of it and when I check the fill spout there is oil right up to just under the threads of the cap.
Could I have been given a defective oil filter from the dealer that isn’t working and not allowing oil to flow properly? It was working perfectly before I chsnged the oil which is why I think it may be a defective oil filter. Any other ideas? Maybe my oil pump just happened to go bad. How hard is it to change an oil pump? Maybe the pressure release valve is stuck open as well?

New to me 2013 550 Browning.

PS light came on…i turned off the machine, let sit, light off.

Riding tonight, PS and Engine Check lights come on. Turned off, let sit, then back on…all seems okay.

Only 40 hours / 400 miles on machine.

Thoughts?

New to me 2013 550 Browning.

PS light came on…i turned off the machine, let sit, light off.

Riding tonight, PS and Engine Check lights come on. Turned off, let sit, then back on…all seems okay.

Only 40 hours / 400 miles on machine.

Thoughts?