Just curious, if you ever felt like you encountered a ghost or wondering spirit when you were out riding.

My wife and I had a eerie feeling at the same time at the opening of the mine that she caught gold fever.

having issues

the front wheels work in 4×4, but the not the rear wheels. it is like they won’t engage, neither in 2×4 or 4×4. when i take the 4×4 off and go into 2×4, the front drive shaft will spin.

i understand without breaking it down, i won’t know for sure. i am not a mechanic but am somewhat mechanical. i think it has to be either a drive shaft/u-joint issue, or a gear issue. i have not tried to see if the rear wheels engage when in reverse (can’t remember at the moment), will try later on when i get home.

any help is much appreciated.

Let the voting begin for the July 2016 Polaris ATV of the Month! We will leave the poll open until the end of the month and then announce the winner. We got some really good pics this month, thanks to everyone that participated and GOOD LUCK!!

fsadvar

2014 Sportsman 570 Camo
26x9x12 STI Outback XT
26x11x12 STI Outback XT
4+3 ITP Black Steel wheels
Polaris extended racks f/r
Polaris Hand Guards
Wrapped Exhaust
Lots of Heat Shielding
HD Front Springs

gibbons025

2015 Polaris Sportsman 1000 Touring

vics570

2016 Sportsman 570
Beautiful Orange Burst
26" Pro Armor Attack Tires
Polaris 14" Buckle Wheels
Polaris Front & Rear Brush-Guards
Polaris Rear Rack Ext.
Kick ass skull shift knob

ErikLand

[/URL][/IMG]

2005 Polaris Sportsman 800EFI
KFI 2500# winch
Koplin trail box
RotoPax gas cans

I’ve read several posts with this problem but the solutions jumps from carb issues to clutch problems. When I run an incline (not steep enough to use low) and especially if hauling someone, she bogs down bad – I have to shift into Low to get it to go. But on the level everything seems fine in High. Now I’m talking a moderate incline – one that you should easily climb in high gear. Anyway I can’t convince myself it’s a belt / clutch issue because my thinking is that if it was slipping I’d see my engine rpms rev up since the belt is slipping and therefore it’s not seeing any resistance. Wouldn’t this be the case? Yet I read of several people saying it is a belt or clutch issue. But then I’m thinking if it runs fine on the flat, if it’s a carb issue, why ain’t I seeing a problem then. I only see it when the engine is laboring. If someone could point me in the right direction it would be great. FYI – rebuilt carb with stock jets ( I also read where people are changing the jets for better performance, but my original stock jets ran fine when I first purchased the ATV so why would i need to change now??) Belt shows some wear but not bad. Replaced ramp buttons on secondary clutch. Primary clutch spring looks fine along with weights and bushings, but does have slight wear in lower portion of the sheave. Any help would be appreciated!!

Guys hope all are doing well
I live in eastern PA and ground here is hard and heavy rock, not much mud and if there is not real deep.
Anyway I am new to the whole 4×4 quad thing, I just bought a 2015 Outlander xt 1000 cc
what is the largest tire I can fit under this stock machine?
also I would like a tire that is good for above stuff, but also SNOW and I like the look of the wider tire, so how wide?
and I like the tires that have a flatter stance no so much rounded like motorcycle tire, more like a slick on a motorcycle, But again if I am wrong tell me!
I have been back and forth with V force John, he is like 30 minutes north of me and will be doing exhaust and tuner and clutch mod, but kind of need to get tires to decide on what clutch mod! let me know brand etc. thanks guys Brett

If you happen to have these lying around…I’d love to buy them from you!

OEM part numbers are:

80126-HB3-840 and 80125-HB3-840

They’re the last items I need to complete my build!

Thanks! Annie

If you happen to have these lying around…I’d love to buy them from you!

OEM part numbers are:

80126-HB3-840 and 80125-HB3-840

They’re the last items I need to complete my build!

Thanks! Annie

For 2016 Grizzly and Kodiak Final Drives (rear differential like box), Yamaha specs Mobilfluid 424 which is hard to find. From another thread I learned that lately Yamaha dealers have been recommending, "Yamalube Friction Modified Shaft Drive Gear Oil". It is available for about $10 per quart.

Here is more info about it:
"Specially formulated especially for quiet operation and proper performance of the sealed wet brake final drives and standard differentials of all Yamaha products. It contains a superior anti-wear and anti-scoring performance additive and a dispersant inhibitor system to help maintain seal pliability to prevent leaks."

I wonder why this isn’t spec’d for the front differential. For the front diff we are supposed to use "SAE 80 API GL-4 Hypoid gear oil" which is readily available and costs about the same.

When I shift into L the gauge display remains in Hg .. never switches to Lg on the display. wondering if anyone else has had a similar issues.

It displays correctly in all the other gear selections (P N R H) just not L

I have taken down my 1988 TRX350D to the piston. I can see why it doesn’t want to run…the rings are shot and the cylinder wall is like glass. I was happy to see that the combustion chamber did not have a lot of nasty carbon buildup. I will be looking for a shop in NE Oklahoma to prep it for the new kit. I wish to order the kit and have it ready for the shop the cuts the cylinder.

My questions:

1.) After some internet searching I have only found the Wiseco 81.5 mm kit with 10.25:1 compression increase (20%!). I do not want to increase my compression and wish to remain with the stock 8.5:1 but just a bigger bore. Can someone help me with a part number for a 81.5 mm (or 82.0 mm) piston kit with stock compression ratio? I can live with a small bump in compression but I don’t want a bump to 10.25:1 to cause other "old" parts of the engines bottom-end to show their age.

2.) If I was unsuccessful in keeping the timing chain in place on the crankshaft and it jumped a tooth without me noticing, is there a easy way to verify the chain position on the crank? I think I am good but prior to torquing everything I wish to be 100%. I read the OEM manual and it doesn’t mention the chain position on the crank, just "don’t let it fall into the crank case". Is it all based on putting the top end together methodically at TDC and the rest should fall in place? I’m a rookie with top-ends…

Thank you for your help in advance.

Regards,
Polymerjohn