The TAB on the fender at the TOP is less than 1/8" THIN so on a rugged ride this weekend, a BIG BANG on the bottom of the footwell caused the FENDER TAB (rear) where the two join, to rip right off the (top) fender. At the corresponding (front) FENDER TAB, the bolt joining the TWO (upper and lower tabs) TORE OUT thru the (lower) footwell tab.
Same result front and back: the footwell and fenders were no longer connected and were sticking out at different angles…so
Not wanting to spend hundreds of DOLLAHS for a new FENDER and knowing that GLUE and similar fixes would only hold til the next trip into the bush: I decided to WELD the rear TAB back into place.
Repairs of PLASTIC, of which there are more than 7 common types, rely on the REPAIR METHOD being COMPATIBLE with the EXACT TYPE of PLASTIC involved.
On my former Kawi Quad, the fenders ETC were made of TPO (TermalPolyOlefin) plastic and only that type will adhere to "itself".
I went online and found a supplier of various PLASTIC WELDING tools and supplies and ended up ordering and receiving a "kit" which had about 7 types of plastic "welding rod" for various applications, including TPO. I was able to fix, by "welding" several damaged areas over a two year period on the Kawi.
Fortunately, I have already contacted CAN AM Customer Service to find out that our fenders are made of ABS plastic. This the stuff that black plastic "plumbing pipe" is made of and as a builder, I always have chunks of that stiff on hand.
There is a plastic WELDING tool available out there which relies on a HOT FOOT thru which you push plastic 1/8" welding rod, much in the style of a GLUE GUN. When it comes out the OTHER END, the HEAT has semi-liquified the rod and allows you you press in into place..like a glue gun. The pieces to be repaired have to be properly aligned and again, like the GLUE GUN, the HOT ABS will adhere to itself. Part of the Kit for the Kawi I ordered included two pieces, about 4" X 8" of stainless steel wire mesh that looks just like BugScreen material, except that it is S/S.
To apply it, you PLAN AHEAD and cut and bend the screen til its the exact same shape you need to re-inforce the repair/weld. Think something like REBAR.
Anyway, here are a series of PICS from my repair today of the REAR Fender TO FOOTWELL where the 2 1/2" TAB was torn off the TOP fender and at the FRONT torn out UNDER tab on the footwell.
The rear was WELDED (from the former 1/8" thick tab to NOW 3/4" re-inforced replaced TAB.
The FRONT was fixed by using two (much LARGER than OEM) fender washers to make the connection.
I dont know how many PICS I can attach or how much TEXT we are allowed on this forum, I may be OVER but, here goes:
